Tekno MT410
#1381
Tech Initiate
So i'm having an issue with my front diff case. Not sure if its an issue, or just normal. but when i tighten the screws TKR1333 on page 11 of the manual the diff gets a bit grindy and choppy. When i pull it all apart, the diff feels smooth. Once i tighten down those screws, it gets a bit grindy. Any ideas ?
#1382
So i'm having an issue with my front diff case. Not sure if its an issue, or just normal. but when i tighten the screws TKR1333 on page 11 of the manual the diff gets a bit grindy and choppy. When i pull it all apart, the diff feels smooth. Once i tighten down those screws, it gets a bit grindy. Any ideas ?
I don't see what tightening the diff case screws would do to the operation of the diff internals, so I assume it's the second situation. Do you have any shims installed (TKR1222 on page 6 marked as optional) behind the outdrives? If so make sure they're installed properly and not mangled by being pinched in the case while it was closing. If they're not all bent up, try taking them out and trying it like that. On a brand new build you don't always need those shims because things are still tight. I didn't put mine in until the second time I rebuilt my diffs.
#1383
Tech Initiate
Do you have it all built yet, wheels on etc, and you're turning the wheels in opposite directions to feel the diff working, or are you just building it now, wheels not on yet, and you're spinning the outdrives with the pinion input?
I don't see what tightening the diff case screws would do to the operation of the diff internals, so I assume it's the second situation. Do you have any shims installed (TKR1222 on page 6 marked as optional) behind the outdrives? If so make sure they're installed properly and not mangled by being pinched in the case while it was closing. If they're not all bent up, try taking them out and trying it like that. On a brand new build you don't always need those shims because things are still tight. I didn't put mine in until the second time I rebuilt my diffs.
I don't see what tightening the diff case screws would do to the operation of the diff internals, so I assume it's the second situation. Do you have any shims installed (TKR1222 on page 6 marked as optional) behind the outdrives? If so make sure they're installed properly and not mangled by being pinched in the case while it was closing. If they're not all bent up, try taking them out and trying it like that. On a brand new build you don't always need those shims because things are still tight. I didn't put mine in until the second time I rebuilt my diffs.
#1384
Tech Apprentice
Do you have it all built yet, wheels on etc, and you're turning the wheels in opposite directions to feel the diff working, or are you just building it now, wheels not on yet, and you're spinning the outdrives with the pinion input?
I don't see what tightening the diff case screws would do to the operation of the diff internals, so I assume it's the second situation. Do you have any shims installed (TKR1222 on page 6 marked as optional) behind the outdrives? If so make sure they're installed properly and not mangled by being pinched in the case while it was closing. If they're not all bent up, try taking them out and trying it like that. On a brand new build you don't always need those shims because things are still tight. I didn't put mine in until the second time I rebuilt my diffs.
I don't see what tightening the diff case screws would do to the operation of the diff internals, so I assume it's the second situation. Do you have any shims installed (TKR1222 on page 6 marked as optional) behind the outdrives? If so make sure they're installed properly and not mangled by being pinched in the case while it was closing. If they're not all bent up, try taking them out and trying it like that. On a brand new build you don't always need those shims because things are still tight. I didn't put mine in until the second time I rebuilt my diffs.
Also when i spin my diffs by the out drives or input gear they seem to be smooth but they are a little noisey, is this normal??
Sorry if i sound like a newb but this is my first kit and just want to be extra sure im doing this right. I have followed all the directions to the T. So hopefully it goes well....
#1385
Sounds like the same thing Sully was talking about, you may try to experiment with the TKR1222 shims from page 6 as well. Try it first with just one shim on the side behind the crown gear to make it mesh tighter with the pinion. Also make sure you close the diff case really carefully since the shims are so fragile and they like to get caught up in there.
#1386
Tech Apprentice
Yeah that's normal, the bottom of the diff case doesn't get pulled tight until you put in the long screws on page 11 (TKR1333).
Sounds like the same thing Sully was talking about, you may try to experiment with the TKR1222 shims from page 6 as well. Try it first with just one shim on the side behind the crown gear to make it mesh tighter with the pinion. Also make sure you close the diff case really carefully since the shims are so fragile and they like to get caught up in there.
Sounds like the same thing Sully was talking about, you may try to experiment with the TKR1222 shims from page 6 as well. Try it first with just one shim on the side behind the crown gear to make it mesh tighter with the pinion. Also make sure you close the diff case really carefully since the shims are so fragile and they like to get caught up in there.
#1387
Tech Apprentice
Ok guys i added shims to the opposite side of the ring gear and now they are buttery smooth. Thanks guys.
One more question, on the front end it suggests 64mm for the camber links. With the camber links screwed all the way in im getting 66mm and thats about as small as they will go. Im afraid if i screw them in anymore they will strip. Any suggestions ???
One more question, on the front end it suggests 64mm for the camber links. With the camber links screwed all the way in im getting 66mm and thats about as small as they will go. Im afraid if i screw them in anymore they will strip. Any suggestions ???
#1388
The threaded part can go inside the rod end quite a bit, no worries. Mine are set to 64mm with no issues. I also don't think 2mm difference in the link length will make a noticeable difference in the handling on a monster truck though, so either way you're fine in my opinion.
#1389
Tech Rookie
Gents, have a MT410 coming from A-Main... I have a Kraton and wanted something better than an Outcast, hence the MT410... That said, I still (sorry no flames, please) still like the “wing thing” so I ordered an ET48 body and wing mount. That shouldn’t be an issue, but concerned about the fit of the ET body knowing that it’s about 2” longer. Main issue looks to be appropriate mounting of front body posts.
I thought I read that someone has successfully made a short wheelbase “ET48” out of the MT410, but thought I’d kick it out there for input. Also, the pictures back then were all friggin Photobucket (can’t believe they killed millions of informational pictures)...
Reason I want to do this is to have a short wheelbase ET and I like the ideal of a wing being an easily replaced item in the event of repeated tail landings. I had a T-Bone basher bumper on order, but cancelled it for now.
Ideally, let me see some pictures of truggified MT’s. Tithe the ET body for inspiration and what was necessary to properly mount the body. Thanks!!!!
I thought I read that someone has successfully made a short wheelbase “ET48” out of the MT410, but thought I’d kick it out there for input. Also, the pictures back then were all friggin Photobucket (can’t believe they killed millions of informational pictures)...
Reason I want to do this is to have a short wheelbase ET and I like the ideal of a wing being an easily replaced item in the event of repeated tail landings. I had a T-Bone basher bumper on order, but cancelled it for now.
Ideally, let me see some pictures of truggified MT’s. Tithe the ET body for inspiration and what was necessary to properly mount the body. Thanks!!!!
#1390
Need opinions, please. 1550kv motor on 6s power: what’s a good starting point for pinion gear size?
I’ve been running 2000kv on 4s with a 17 tooth gear successfully, but decided to give 6s a try for lower temps and sheer joy.
Thanks much.
I’ve been running 2000kv on 4s with a 17 tooth gear successfully, but decided to give 6s a try for lower temps and sheer joy.
Thanks much.
#1391
Tech Rookie
New 410 owner in the house! Have a Kraton, wanted a high quality alternative to the Outcast... Ordered a T-Bone basher rear bumper as it appears the tail takes a beating on the shorty wheelbase. Anyone have the basher rear bumper, how is it holding up?
#1392
Tech Apprentice
I just got my MT410 built a week ago and just waiting on the power system. I had got a Tekin combo but had to send it back for an exchange becuase something was loose inside the motor. Here is a pic of the MT410 and the Tbone front and rear bumpers i got and have not installed yet for it. I didnt get the basher bumpers but the newer style ones they have... Here are a few pics.
And i ended up getting a Tekno sweater because it was on sale for $20 and who cant use a pullover...
And i ended up getting a Tekno sweater because it was on sale for $20 and who cant use a pullover...
#1393
What can length and KV are MT410 owners liking in regards to strictly running 4s?
#1394
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
I just got my MT410 built a week ago and just waiting on the power system. I had got a Tekin combo but had to send it back for an exchange becuase something was loose inside the motor. Here is a pic of the MT410 and the Tbone front and rear bumpers i got and have not installed yet for it. I didnt get the basher bumpers but the newer style ones they have... Here are a few pics.
TBR spoiler alert on the new Tekno MT410.1 coming out. It's now called a MT411.
#1395
Tech Apprentice
As far as the MT411, i noticed that too and had to take a second look. Gave me a good laugh. Must be a typo unless you know something i dont know Unless there is a new MT410.1 coming out??? Mind totally f***ed.....