Just got my build done this weekend and all I can say is hooooly crap what a nice truck.
My last mt was stampede 4x4 that I upgraded the heck out of. I know Tekno is in whole different level than Traxxas but never quite fully realized it until owning both.
I'm running a 2200kv castle sensored paired with a mamba x esc. Running a 15 t pinion on stock 44t spur. I'm not gonna get into a P***ing contest with gearing here so all i gots to say is it works for me! I'll be posting pics up.
Happy bashing!

That's pretty much what everyone says. The sad thing is that a lot of people have way more money invested in their Traxxas than the cost of this kit and it's still nowhere near as durable.

OK, I see the gearing thing is still going on as a discussion, so let me try to explain it. In short, everybody is partially correct, but not quite noticing the full picture.

Today's brushless 8th scale motors can all put out TONS of power, way more than we can possibly use in most cases due to limits in traction. They also have full torque output from 0 rpm.

Assuming a truggy motor, this is why, in almost all cases of 8th scale or MT, coming from normal suggested gearing, going up in pinion will give you MORE acceleration and/or backflipping and in air control, because it is accelerating faster since the motor shaft spins up just as quick with the larger pinion as a smaller pinion, causing the wheels to accelerate faster with the larger pinion. This will be true until you go large enough that you hit a threshold of performance, at which point you'll then finally start dropping in acceleration as you continue to go up. To hit that threshold though, you'd need crazy good batteries and ESCs as you'd be pushing 1000w+ into the motor for at least a semi-sustained period of time. If you have a lower KV buggy motor in the MT, and heavy large wheels, or cheap batteries, then you may actually be around that threshold of your maximum system's watt output with normal gearing ranges.

If you're talking about smaller vehicles, such as 10th scale vehicles, especially something like 17.5, then the motor's total watt output isn't as high, even with all the amps it will draw, so you will find that threshold fairly quickly, which means then a smaller pinion WILL give you more acceleration from normal recommended gearing, but only until you're down to that point where you're no longer using max watt output for the motor to accelerate. Once you're that small, going smaller will give you less acceleration again.

In all cases, going larger in pinion WILL increase your eventual top speed, provided you don't reach a speed where friction, rolling resistance, and wind resistance put enough force back on it that you're trying to accelerate more and can't, due to already being at max watt output for the motor. You should never see that unless you're using WAY too small of a motor, or are doing speed runs.

Generally, there are 2 factors we care about for gearing, both of which boil down to heat.
A motor running too high RPM all the time from being wide open throttle from not having a big enough pinion will run hot. A motor running at max watt output all the time from having too big a pinion will run also run hot. This is why if you play with gearing, you'll see a curve where it is hot to good to hot again if you step up through the gears from smaller than recommended to larger than recommended.

If all you want is less backflipping/wheelies/wheelspin, use the torque limiting or current limiting feature of your ESC, which will slow that ramp up while traction is present, but not affect top speed or getting the wheels to speed in the air for in air control like gearing can.

Hey guys, so I have this question about Torque and gearing - lol, just kidding :D.

I'm finishing up a different body and want to use the original Tekno body posts again, instead of the Traxxas ones I used before. Thing is, there is a lot of play in the posts, over 5mm left to right movement when mounted in highest position... I can't remember how this was before I put in the Traxxas posts, but those are a bit wider, so maybe that's what created some slop. So, can anyone please confirm whether their Tekno body posts are a tight fit without too much play (also on highest mounting position)?

They naturally have a bit of play, though you may have a little more than normal now, so their movement can help absorb hits too, not just the body.

Dr.T mines got lots of play too. All posts have survived so far after a hard weekend bashing.

Anyone have any suggestions on replacement body posts? This is the only thing I've broken on mine (my fault, running without a body for a single run and flipped over @ high speed) and they seem loose. I understand these need to be flexible for obvious reasons, but I think the posts themselves should be thicker.

So wait... Do I need shock towers too? I thought I could just get the body mounts and be done? Am I wrong? I have an ET48.3 that I hardly use because it's so darn easy to drive and drive fast. Haha. I like more of a challenge.... I do have an Outcast already, so I'm cool with the longer wheelbase version it an MT410. Just basically wanna be able to mount any body on it I guess?

I guess I would like more suspension travel if that's possible..

The SCT410(MT410) body mounts/post wont fit the ET48, nor the EB48.3 towers, but I zip tied mine one my EB.

**Wheels turning: "hmm I have lots of good zip ties. I think I'll start with ordering the mounts and see what happens".

Thanks! :)

Correct, the shock towers are different. The body post mounts from the SCT are for the width of the SCT (and original ebuggy) towers.

I'd like to trim the mounts & maybe drill the towers to make it a cleaner install, eventually.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/14616037-post1979.html

Why am I incapable of finding the SC410/MT410 body mounts???

These? TKR5791 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDDXV&P=7