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Old 08-06-2017, 12:52 AM
  #1936  
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The LST slipper is more complicated than others out there but it also offers much more resolution in its adjustment. On other slippers a 1/4 turn and you go from locked to so loose it burns up, not so with the LST.

As far as adjustment, just barely snug it up. Then with the truck on the ground hold the spur gear by wrapping your fingers around it like it's a lid on a jar so you have a firm grip on it. Now roll the truck, tighten a little, roll truck, tighten a little. This will give you a feel for the granularity of adjusting the slipper and let you feel how locked it is. I tighten the slipper until I can barely hold the spur gear while pushing the truck, it's probably a little over tight but works fine for me.

Then if you want you can loosen it back up and try taking off from a stop, listening for the motor spinning up and slipper slipping. Tighten until you don't hear it slipping. If you do only quick stabs of throttle you won't heat the slipper up too much. You can also use a temp gun to monitor the temps of the slipper too.
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:30 AM
  #1937  
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I have a quick question for the group. I notice that the servo saver is washing off some of the turn radius at low to no speed meaning that when I turn it on the ground at a stop the savers dont allow it turn bell to bell. when Im moving it makes it better but I thought I remember Overdriven saying that he runs without them for better accuracy and gets full turn from ding to ding. I already upgraded to S6290 Ultra Speed, HV Dig Servos (SPMSS6290) 0.08 sec/60 deg @ 7.4V and 331 oz-in @ 7.4V so it turns very quickly and accurately but like I said at low speed the servos savers just wont allow it to go ding to ding. Do you guys have experience running without the savers? The servos I got are defiantly good quality but I cant afford to replace them all the time. Can it be run without them and should I upgrade the horn to aluminum when/if I go that rout. any suggestions would be welcome. maybe I just need to replace my savers? they are only about 3 months old but I run the truck often so maybe that's it? I don't know. I was running the MGT savers (for about 6 months) with the old servos and I liked it but when I replaced the sero's I put in new stock savers wanting the entire steering system to be fresh and new. thoughts....
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:54 AM
  #1938  
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You're running dual Spektrum S6290's? That's a bit of torque! According to the specs they have steel gears with a 7075 aluminum output gear which while strong would be the weak link. Check and see if that gear or complete gearsets are available for them as that is what would break. I've never run those servos but I had a JR9xxx and it was tough as nails, hopefully Spektrum/JR quality is still there.

I would just put aluminum servo horns on and go. But if you're that worried about them use 1/8 plastic steering servo horns. I stripped out a heavy duty Ofna plastic servo horn before switching to aluminum. The biggest issue you'll probably face is connecting the servo horn to the bellcranks. You'll likely need to reuse the stock links for adjustability (to get the servos sync'd up) but the aftermarket horns will likely put them at a different height than the savers do.

Or you could try adding springs to the stock savers to stiffen them up.

Last edited by Overdriven; 08-07-2017 at 08:06 AM.
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:35 PM
  #1939  
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Thanks Overdriven! yea I'm running 2 of them as I didn't want to mess with the single servo set up. They are unreal! Im super pleased with them, it makes this thing turn like a buggy even with the savers on. I will just grab some aluminum horns and see if I can make them work. If they wont work I'm still very happy with the set up but like everyone I'm trying to squeeze every bit of performance I can out of the components I bought. As always thanks for your insight. You have been instrumental in me getting this machine dialed in (from your help to everyone on this thread). I'm quite happy with it now and loving this silly RC. I wish I would have bought a roller and built it but I was new to RC when I bought it and wasn't comfortable doing that. Now I'm super comfortable tooling on it and have upgraded all the components anyways (as they broke). I like to think its bullet proof now but i have come to realize nothing in RC is bullet proof especially the way I drive... Go hard, go big and have fun. I have found its usually only a $10-20 fix anyways.
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:10 PM
  #1940  
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Originally Posted by Learo2000GT
So I must have tightened my slipwrnxlutxh down to much. The nut that goes on to the springs snapped at end of threads. Going to rebuild today any tips or tricks. To help ensure this in the past what is a good test method for slipper. I ordered new pads and some of the most complicated washer system I have seen me a center diff. As far as oil, grease any recommendations. Thanks.
For it all apart, had good u tube video, got complicated as poo put it all in a big baggy when my brain works. The manual is a turd. Does the whole tranney need to come out To replace. I was pissed so knew to walk away.

Last edited by DRTMI; 08-09-2017 at 12:24 PM. Reason: language
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Old 08-07-2017, 03:50 PM
  #1941  
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@Rhino, no problem man. You get what I mean about having to use the stock links though right? There's not enough room for an adjustable turnbuckle to go between the servo horn and bellcranks and you need adjustability to sync up the servos. The stock links are probably the best bet but I haven't looked at the stock savers next to a servo horn in forever. Pay attention to how high the mounting point is on the servo savers.

Anyway, if the servo horn doesn't work out I had an idea pop into my head. What about taking the savers apart, stuffing some JB Weld in the middle and putting them back together. Like I said I haven't had a stock saver around in forever but it sounds like a way to make a servo horn out of a saver if there's height alignment issues with using a horn and the stock links.
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Old 08-07-2017, 08:54 PM
  #1942  
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Originally Posted by Overdriven
@Rhino, no problem man. You get what I mean about having to use the stock links though right? There's not enough room for an adjustable turnbuckle to go between the servo horn and bellcranks and you need adjustability to sync up the servos. The stock links are probably the best bet but I haven't looked at the stock savers next to a servo horn in forever. Pay attention to how high the mounting point is on the servo savers.

Anyway, if the servo horn doesn't work out I had an idea pop into my head. What about taking the savers apart, stuffing some JB Weld in the middle and putting them back together. Like I said I haven't had a stock saver around in forever but it sounds like a way to make a servo horn out of a saver if there's height alignment issues with using a horn and the stock links.
I'll check it out. I'm thinking integy horns for lst2 as they seem to have some height? Part C25838. Or team associated part # 1367 And yea I get it on the links for adjustment.
Your idea about the jb weld intrigues me. That may be a solution if I can't get the height correct on the horn.
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Old 08-09-2017, 04:36 PM
  #1943  
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Anyone w an lst xxl for sale.?
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Old 08-10-2017, 07:07 AM
  #1944  
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this guy was trying to sell one in the Team Losi LST XXL-2 E Owners Group on facebook. its a sick truck the way he has it all set up already. I dont know him but it sounded nice. its a private facebook group but you can get in easy if you are looking to buy one. I sent you his info in the link below.

his facebook profile
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php...37684&fref=ufi

post from him a few days ago:
Ashkon Alborzian I have an LST XXL2E for sale with lots and lots of extras. Extra ESC, two extra servos, center diff conversion. 2 sets of proline tires, and lots more.
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Old 08-16-2017, 02:25 PM
  #1945  
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Originally Posted by Overdriven
@Rhino, no problem man. You get what I mean about having to use the stock links though right? There's not enough room for an adjustable turnbuckle to go between the servo horn and bellcranks and you need adjustability to sync up the servos. The stock links are probably the best bet but I haven't looked at the stock savers next to a servo horn in forever. Pay attention to how high the mounting point is on the servo savers.

Anyway, if the servo horn doesn't work out I had an idea pop into my head. What about taking the savers apart, stuffing some JB Weld in the middle and putting them back together. Like I said I haven't had a stock saver around in forever but it sounds like a way to make a servo horn out of a saver if there's height alignment issues with using a horn and the stock links.

So I got the Integy 23 tooth 16mm aluminum horn and it was just a bit low but I was able to add a few washers below where the linkage connects to it increasing the height and it fits absolutely perfect. The truck is turning AMAZING so quick, so nimble and sooo fun. Full turn from bell to bell at any speed including a stop on asphalt and it does it very fast... I will post pictures / video later tonight but its just unreal!!! I'm super happy with the results. its turning so tight and quick! Anyone else looking to ditch the servo savers and get the most out of your servo's should give it a go. I did confirm that the gearing for my servo is available since I know that that is now the weak point. I may get a set of gears to have on hand in case it grenades the servo. I got a few bashes in already and its holding up great so far...
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Old 08-16-2017, 06:52 PM
  #1946  
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Glad you're liking the no servo saver mod. Beware, after experiencing steering like this you'll probably become a bit of a steering/servo snob, I did. I doubt you'll have issues but it all depends on how hard you are on it. The aluminum output of your servos is what I'm unsure of. But it is the better 7075 aluminum and you do have 2 servos to spread the load across. Plus I've heard of guys breaking stock plastic bellcranks with the servo unscathed.

I just gotta remind everyone that you are taking a risk and you need to pay close attention to your servo specs. Particularly what material ALL the gears are made of. This mod has been done for years mostly with single Hitec 79xx series servos that have all steel or all titanium gears and the results have been excellent. If you see people complaining of stripped servo gears in vehicles that have a saver maybe you shouldn't use that servo in a 11+lb MT without a saver. Use your head guys/girls and don't expect that $20 china servo to survive.

Last edited by Overdriven; 08-22-2017 at 10:28 AM. Reason: Grammar error
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Old 08-22-2017, 07:38 AM
  #1947  
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[QUOTE=Overdriven;15004687]Glad you're liking the no servo saver mod. Beware, after experiencing steering like this you'll probably become a bit of a steering/servo snob, I did.


OK.... So you are correct about becoming a steering snob. I drove my Losi Ten SCTE (Troy Lee edition) yesterday and was quickly disappointed with the handling in comparison to the XXL2E which I have become accustom to. That being said I ordered a new servo for that truck immediatly (S6260 High Speed, HV Dig Servo SPMSS6260). I even scabbed in the external BEC I was using on the XXL2E before I switched to the Mamba X (which has a better BEC built in the to the speed control) so i ditched it. I'm waiting for the new servo to come in now so I can again feel the accurate quick steering I have come to expect. Whats funny is used to think my SCTE turned great but after experiencing the joy of the servo upgrade and no saver mod on the big truck I now could not stand it LOL.
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Old 08-24-2017, 02:51 PM
  #1948  
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I just got turned on to some turnbuckles and ends that are way stronger than stock... I know about the Lunsford's and that's what I'm currently running with no complaints but this is another option for everyone. They are the turnbuckles and ends for the 8ight. Turnbuckles 5mm X 92mm w/ Ends: 8T part # LOSA6538 I dont know why losi wouldnt just use these for the XXL2E instead of that cheap weak 3mm stock units. the Lunsford upgrade is 4mm and these are 5mm with obviously larger ends. This is just another option for everyone to check. The guy who told me about these said they have been indestructible and they are the correct length and fit seamless.
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Old 08-25-2017, 06:26 AM
  #1949  
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Originally Posted by RhinoC
I dont know why losi wouldnt just use these for the XXL2E instead of that cheap weak 3mm stock units.
Probably because they are too good and don't break, which is not so good for Losi and, therefore they discontinued them
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Old 08-25-2017, 06:46 AM
  #1950  
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Instead you can find TLR244033, but they are 102mm. It's just a simple modification if you have the tools, cut them to the needed dimensions and rethread the ends.
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