T/E Maxx Thread
#106
coastaltony: Question. Do you have the annodized pivot balls??? Was just curious about why you thought they made a big difference. Don't have any (didn't think there was a need) but if there is.....
New Jack: I agree with coastaltony on the aluminum bellcrank and the new steering servo. I also agree with him on the AE shocks. I have them on both my E and T-Maxx trucks. It does suck to have to build EIGHT shocks, but once they're done, the work really good. I race my E pretty hard and not one failure yet.
I know alot of guys are going to the 1/8 scale shocks when running a .21 conversion on their trucks. I think that is my next purchase. I have a .21 conversion and it's fast, and the AE shocks work good, but if I need to change oil or springs or something like that, I have to do it FOUR times per end of the car. So, I thought I'd give the 1/8 scalers a try...
New Jack: I agree with coastaltony on the aluminum bellcrank and the new steering servo. I also agree with him on the AE shocks. I have them on both my E and T-Maxx trucks. It does suck to have to build EIGHT shocks, but once they're done, the work really good. I race my E pretty hard and not one failure yet.
I know alot of guys are going to the 1/8 scale shocks when running a .21 conversion on their trucks. I think that is my next purchase. I have a .21 conversion and it's fast, and the AE shocks work good, but if I need to change oil or springs or something like that, I have to do it FOUR times per end of the car. So, I thought I'd give the 1/8 scalers a try...
#107
TPhalen: I've heard of people running the 1/8 scale shocks & also saw the article in the newest version of "Monster Trucks" by Car Action, & am a little scepticle (sp?) of running just one shock per tire, don't get me wrong I know that is fine for the 1/8 scale shock itself, but what about the Suspension won't that put too much stress on are only of the A-arms!!! Just a thought???? What do you think????
#108
Yes I have the hardened pivot balls
installed. Very smooth, compared to
the stock steel jobs. Along with
Pro-Lines new suspension arms, very
smooth, no slop. (the arms are
included with the conversion kit, BTW)
I have an OS .15 CVMax, and Factory Team pipe on mine, with 17 tooth
clutchbell, RRP 72 T steel spur gear,
and Treadz G1 pre-mounted slicks. This
is one BAD on-road T-Maxx
installed. Very smooth, compared to
the stock steel jobs. Along with
Pro-Lines new suspension arms, very
smooth, no slop. (the arms are
included with the conversion kit, BTW)
I have an OS .15 CVMax, and Factory Team pipe on mine, with 17 tooth
clutchbell, RRP 72 T steel spur gear,
and Treadz G1 pre-mounted slicks. This
is one BAD on-road T-Maxx
Last edited by coastaltony; 10-13-2007 at 05:35 AM.
#109
I have 15 different
paints on this Ford body.
That is Alclad chrome
paint on the bed
I used 6 different
Parma Fast-Glitter colors
first Backed
all the glitters with Parma
Fastblack Pealed
the flame masks, and used 5 Parma
flouresent paints for the
flames
And added the XXX main chrome girlies.
BTW, I smooshed the whole truck down,
so nobody can go around me on the
track. I can't loose that way.
Actualy, I sent you a low res. image,
and the 16x9 flattened it out
paints on this Ford body.
That is Alclad chrome
paint on the bed
I used 6 different
Parma Fast-Glitter colors
first Backed
all the glitters with Parma
Fastblack Pealed
the flame masks, and used 5 Parma
flouresent paints for the
flames
And added the XXX main chrome girlies.
BTW, I smooshed the whole truck down,
so nobody can go around me on the
track. I can't loose that way.
Actualy, I sent you a low res. image,
and the 16x9 flattened it out
#111
CoastalTony: Man, I accidnetally erased your last email to me!! It was titled Re: Chassis I believe!!! If you could recall & forward it to I'd appreciate, this time I will be careful with my mouse button!!!
#113
Originally posted by TPhalen
The 1/8 scale shocks should work fine as long as you use heavier springs.
The 1/8 scale shocks should work fine as long as you use heavier springs.
#115
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 120
From: WI.
Plastic are much cheaper to replace if you hit something hard. Aluminum are mainly for show. If you're going to drive your truck alot stick with plastic arms. They may brake, but aluminum can bend if you hit something hard enough. Big bucks then!!
#118
I am slowly starting to modify my T-Maxx, I have just bought as set of Rubber Sealed Bearings for it from www.teambluestar.com a Screw set from www.twistedmotorsports.com and the Pro-line Suspension kit!!! Still got a ways to go, but I'm atleast starting on it!!!!!
#119
CoastalTony: By any chance is the part # for the Aluminum Steering Bellcrank you mentioned before 4918X or is that not what you were talking about? I have priced the Pivot balls on Traxxas.com, but did not see a price for the Forward Only Conversion, I believe I can get that from my Local Hobby Shop though!!!! Thanks again!!!!
#120
New Jack
Traxxas part # 4918X is an aluminum
servo mount, you don't need it (maybe
later for looks)
The 2 part numbers I mentioned are the
pivot balls & reverse lock-out
shaft
MegaTech purple aluminum steering
bell-crank, with BB is # 22058
Also check Powerline, Dynamite & H-G
for prices
I'm off with my T-Maxx
to tear em' up
Traxxas part # 4918X is an aluminum
servo mount, you don't need it (maybe
later for looks)
The 2 part numbers I mentioned are the
pivot balls & reverse lock-out
shaft
MegaTech purple aluminum steering
bell-crank, with BB is # 22058
Also check Powerline, Dynamite & H-G
for prices
I'm off with my T-Maxx
to tear em' up



