Originally Posted by snowman49
(Post 15621100)
body is going to look great on there man!
always loved the stock body, never was able to get one myself, what direction are the holes needing to go to line up btw? cant wait to see assembled pics!!! |
Wrenched on my nitros for 4 hours tonight. For my losi 8ight t rtr I installed dynamite aluminum clutch shoes, losi gold 1.0 springs, new clutch pins, new TKO special clutch bell bearings(supposed to be stronger and last longer), and a new lrp irdium r5 glow plug, and avid rc exhaust gasket. Felt so good to do maintenance and I Can’t wait to run it! But on to the LST I got a bunch of assorted screws, washers, body mounts, losi aluminum 3 shoes clutch shoes and springs. I installed the new body mounts but my front mount holes are still off, the body was drilled wrong from the factory I think. Guess I’ll have to get a harbor freight drill and some bits lol. Also, I installed 2 missing servo tab screws, and 2 missing engine mount screws on the bottom. Weird things about the screws though, I ordered 5-40 1/2 inch hex head screws, but they literally don’t fit the engine mount on ONE Side on the bottom of the mount. It totally would not screw in properly. I tried the 4-40 screws are I also got, boom they screwed right in perfectly along with a washer and tightened properly. So one side of the mount has the stock 5-40 screws( I checked them with my new screws and they were identical, and the other mount( on the bottom) has 4-40 half inch screws(tightened perfectly, mount is tight). How weird is that? I screwed the new 5-40 into the top of the mounts to( without engine of course) and they screwed perfectly into both mounts. How weird is that? Anyway I’ll post a few pics tomorrow of my admittedly minor progress. Got a few kore things on the way too. Take care
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that is quite strange on the mounts, on one of the ones that i got, the previous owner had forced 3mm screws in instead of the stock 5-40, it works and tighens down, eventually i want to get the finned engine mounts though.
it is interesting you say that about your body posts not lining up the same, now that i remember that both of my LSTs fit ever so slightly different, the one "shorter" than the other, by a few MM, it was enough i could bend the extended mounts to work, but when the body was low it wouldnt. cant wait to see pics! |
Got a few pics for you guys! Don’t mind the butterfly table cloth, my fiancé loves when I work on my nitro in the dining room table lmao. Here we go
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...679b86537.jpeg New mounts https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...af4e1649f.jpeg Radom screw to keep the servo in place https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...b8f379021.jpeg Looking at the picture, left side is stock engine mount screws. Right side is where I had to put the 4-40 1/2 inch screws for some reason. But it works and the mounts right. Wish I knew why the 5-40 half inch screws I got don’t work though https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...11fb6061d.jpeg Truck with body on top https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...34148f852.jpeg Rear mounts fit great. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ae615cbe4.jpeg Got the body jammed on the front mounts. It will actually stay on with body pins, but I should widen the holes a bit for a better fit. It’s freaking tight on there |
Hope everyone is having a great easter! Just a small update, I’m waiting on a new hitec power switch, and eco power 5 cell nimh pack, and I ordered an original lst engine complete with flywheel, clutchbell, and hopefully the elusive brass collet I haven’t been able to find. The motor has no compression and it was sold as such for parts or whatever. Will update again when parts come in. If I play my cards right, all I’ll have to do is put those parts in and throw the dynamite .28 in if I choose. Or I’m going to order this: https://wallacemotorsports.net/ielas...-truck-engine/
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Originally Posted by Losi215
(Post 15623719)
Hope everyone is having a great easter! Just a small update, I’m waiting on a new hitec power switch, and eco power 5 cell nimh pack, and I ordered an original lst engine complete with flywheel, clutchbell, and hopefully the elusive brass collet I haven’t been able to find. The motor has no compression and it was sold as such for parts or whatever. Will update again when parts come in. If I play my cards right, all I’ll have to do is put those parts in and throw the dynamite .28 in if I choose. Or I’m going to order this: https://wallacemotorsports.net/ielas...-truck-engine/
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Originally Posted by biglor
(Post 15623733)
if you don’t find that collet let me know I have one new in pack along with the nut
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Mach .26 sleeve and pistons are still pretty readily available as well. Right around 40$. That nova looks really awesome though!
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Originally Posted by snowman49
(Post 15623771)
Mach .26 sleeve and pistons are still pretty readily available as well. Right around 40$. That nova looks really awesome though!
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Hey guys quick question. How am I supposed to get the flywheel off? I’ve seen flywheel pullers on eBay and stuff but is there anyway I can pop it off with a screwdriver? It’s on the eBay engine right as can be, already took off clutchbell and bearings and clutch from eBay engine
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Typically I will get some vice-grips, grip the flywheel, pull off the nut. Then you can lightly tap the back of the flywheel and will usually pop off.
if that doesnt work you "can" wedge off with a screwdriver, it can damage the crankcase though so be carefull. |
Originally Posted by snowman49
(Post 15624245)
Typically I will get some vice-grips, grip the flywheel, pull off the nut. Then you can lightly tap the back of the flywheel and will usually pop off.
if that doesnt work you "can" wedge off with a screwdriver, it can damage the crankcase though so be carefull. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...9b6281d93.jpeg Here’s the all elusive collet! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...98dcb0fcb.jpeg guess I gouged the crankcase, this was the Mach .26 though and I don’t plan on using it. If I ever do rebuild it though hopefully it’s okay |
One more question everyone, I now have three flywheels: which ones are usable?
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8075f91ee.jpeg The flywheel on the left is slightly gouged on the inside from taking it off the eBay engine and collet. Can I sandpaper the inside slightly and get it smooth again?The flywheel on the right looks good on the inside and pins looks okay, just dirty. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...9c2443c9a.jpeg This flywheel looks good on the inside and outside except the pins are literally a blue color. Looks like it got a million degrees at some point. Is this bad or is it usable? Pins are the smoothest out of the bunch. |
though some more dirty than the others, all those look to be in decent usable shape, and from the looks of the crankcase, should be usable as well, pic is a bit blurry, but looks to be primarily cosmetic damage.
i personally really like my Mach .26 in my LST and if you get the chance down the road really recommend rebuilding it. and yes those are very elusive collets, does make me curious if a more standard one may be filed down though. |
Originally Posted by snowman49
(Post 15624315)
though some more dirty than the others, all those look to be in decent usable shape, and from the looks of the crankcase, should be usable as well, pic is a bit blurry, but looks to be primarily cosmetic damage.
i personally really like my Mach .26 in my LST and if you get the chance down the road really recommend rebuilding it. and yes those are very elusive collets, does make me curious if a more standard one may be filed down though. |
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