Team losi lst project
 

Hello everyone. Tonight starts my journey on a refurbishing of an original team losi lst roller I purchased from eBay a couple weeks ago. Thanks to the member snowman and his own personal lst journey, I’ve received a ton of helpful tips and hints to get started and things I will need to do to get it in running condition. Here are a few pictures
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The truck is in very good (stock and cleanish) condition but will require some attention. New engine mount screws, testing of all the servos which did come with the truck(nice plus), cleaning a section of gunk out of the fuel tank bottom nipple area, installation of flywheel, clutchbell, clutch, etc onto undecided engine, and fixing of the right front shock(binds up bad halfway through the stroke). The differentials, axles, wheel bearings, and transmission seem to roll and spin flawlessly. Diffs are smooth as butter to be honest and while I haven’t opened up the transmission, it seems like it will be perfect as well and I believe I have the forward/reverse transmissions The tires, while okay, are as squishy as can be and I assume should upgrade to a 17mm hex conversion and get some modern tires and wheels eventually. The originals will be fine in the mean time I think. Engine choices are down to the stock dynamite .28 out of my losi 8ight t rtr and FINALLY throwing my never ran reds r5r into that, or maybe getting a nova 28-8 pullstart engine or some kind of Lrp,SH,etc decent engine just to get going. I’m probably leaning towards throwing the dynamite engine in to get it going while I learn about the truck. Anyway, first thing is first and tonight I’m gonna get my old spektrum dx2e controller and sr310 receiver semi installed to test out the servos. I’m hoping that by just plugging in a dynamite 5 cell directly into the receiver( have to bypass stock switch switch since it does not have a jr style connection) I can get them to work. Couple questions, do I have to rebind the spektrum setup since I uninstalled it from my truggy while back? Or is it good to go still. Also, would I Plug the battery into the bind port, or would I plug it in aux 1 on the receiver?looking forward to keeping you guys updated, showing pictures and learning all I can, and asking lots and lots of questions to all you fine folks on rc tech. Thanks guys

Great to see you started a thread!! love these trucks and would love to see more and more come out of hibernation!
you do have the Forward/reverse transmission, yours also has the Hi/Lo gears as well. (round knob, you spin about 90 degrees iirc).
17mm hex conversion, i am also in that pickle, i have read that T-maxx 17mm hex conversion work on these, and because i know the Pro-Line 23mm hexes advertise they fit MGT, T-Maxx, and LST1, i would think they will work.
ultimately i want to convert mine to LST2 a-arms, C-Hubs, and axles, then find 17mm hexes that would be intended for the LST2 to work.
battery plug port, either will work, my DX2E came with a RX that only had 3 ports total (CH1, CH2, Bind), so i had to use battery on Ch1 or CH2 and bind plug into bind port for binding.
the RX/TX should still be bound regardless of removal from the truck (when you take the power away from an electric and or nitro, they stay bound still.)
you will have to adjust trims and end points though.
engine choices, ive always wanted to try a Dynamite Big Red, and a Novarossi 28-8, if i had the cash would start with the Nova as i have never owned one before, but if i was pressed for cash would do the Big Red.(i eventually want to get my hands on both)
one of your first upgrades i am going to recommend is to get aluminum diff cases, with the power to the wheels, and the aggressiveness of the brakes (by the way the brakes will grab hard enough to front flip the truck on flat ground if your wheels can grip).
my front diff case cracked at the input pinion after a hard braking misadventure.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...41ae34a5f1.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...83af96629b.jpg

definitely looking forward to your progress and experiences with the truck!

Good news buddy, both steering servos and throttle servo work! I did not test the forward/reverse shifting servo but i guess I can plug that in to either steering or throttle and check that too. But I assume it’s good as well. Steering servos sounded like they might be fighting each other a tiny bit, a little noisy just sitting there but they really worked great and turned the tires quite well. Didn’t really set anything up but the test went well and I’m super psyched the servos worked at all haha. I will definitely be upgrading in the future though. Thanks for the information about the hexes, I’m glad I didn’t order any 17mm LST2 hex coversions. I’ve seen a million conversions for the LST2 on eBay but I was getting the impression that they would Not work for the lst1 because of the smaller axles I assume. Good call on the diff cups, glad it already came with the front one at least though and the stock plastic rear one spins perfect. Now I guess I’m gonna have to order a Futaba receiver to use my 3pv radio with it, because the spektrum radio is only 2 channel and I can’t shift between forward or reverse. I could just lock it in forward though because I really don’t care about reverse at all. I’ll ask about locking the servo in place with some line or something when the time comes. Time to get the old gunky fuel out of the bottom of the tank hopefully tomorrow.

You can get a FOC for the truck (what I did) right around 35$, and comes with a TiNi gear.

awesome thanks brother I’ve been eyeballing that too. And to think I went into this trying to spend as little as possible lol

Removing the reverse also drops a lot of rotating mass and overall weight of the truck

I have a stock Dynamite Mach 427 Big Block Nitro Engine W Spin Start Extra Shafts & Tuned Pipe. Let me know. Everything except the air filter.

i bet it does. I remember doing a FOC on my old revo 2.5r and it really woke that truck up

thanks for the offer bud. I already have a tuned pipe and I’m probably just gonna put a stock. Dynamite .28 out of a losi truggy, or I might step up to the Novarossi 28-8. Thank you anyway for the offer I hope you can get it sold

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...993782e9b.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ddd55bb97.jpeg
Scores me this super clean never ran Lst2 body for a pretty good price

Looks awesome! I was gonna wait to post but I just ordered a brand new, never ran original lst body earlier this week. Should be here this week and I’ll be sure to post more. I ordered about 2 Ben franklins worth of parts this week. Whoops. Can’t wait to get everything! Dang that LST2 body is nice

Alrighty everyone well I got a little something in the mail today... a brand new, unopened original lst body sealed in the package.

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I just applied the headlights, taillights, front gill, and lower “air intakes” so far but I think it looks sharp. I test fitted it but unfortunately it doesn’t quite line up. I have new body mounts in the mail, but my front shock tower seems like it may be bent, if that’s even possible. I might just have to widen the pre drilled holes a bit. It’s not off too bad. Either way I scored an unused, 15 ish year old body and I am thrilled! Have a good night everyone

Nice , looks good . I had the same issue with mine , I think you’re right about the tower my front shock tower was slightly bent . I just installed new post and I think I made my holes a tad bigger .

Nice biglor, glad to know that fixed your problem. I’m gonna have to get a cheap drill and some bits to rectify the situation.

body is going to look great on there man!
always loved the stock body, never was able to get one myself, what direction are the holes needing to go to line up btw?
cant wait to see assembled pics!!!

hey snowman, thanks for the kind words. I checked eBay everyday for weeks and one finally popped up. There’s been a few lst bodies and especially Lst2 bodies that have popped up but they are pricey. Keep checking if you want one I’m sure another will pop up. I’ll take pictures later of the way the body sits on the mounts, it’s not completely off. just by a couple millimeters if that. If I drill them out a bit bigger in addition to installing the new mounts, it should fit.

Wrenched on my nitros for 4 hours tonight. For my losi 8ight t rtr I installed dynamite aluminum clutch shoes, losi gold 1.0 springs, new clutch pins, new TKO special clutch bell bearings(supposed to be stronger and last longer), and a new lrp irdium r5 glow plug, and avid rc exhaust gasket. Felt so good to do maintenance and I Can’t wait to run it! But on to the LST I got a bunch of assorted screws, washers, body mounts, losi aluminum 3 shoes clutch shoes and springs. I installed the new body mounts but my front mount holes are still off, the body was drilled wrong from the factory I think. Guess I’ll have to get a harbor freight drill and some bits lol. Also, I installed 2 missing servo tab screws, and 2 missing engine mount screws on the bottom. Weird things about the screws though, I ordered 5-40 1/2 inch hex head screws, but they literally don’t fit the engine mount on ONE Side on the bottom of the mount. It totally would not screw in properly. I tried the 4-40 screws are I also got, boom they screwed right in perfectly along with a washer and tightened properly. So one side of the mount has the stock 5-40 screws( I checked them with my new screws and they were identical, and the other mount( on the bottom) has 4-40 half inch screws(tightened perfectly, mount is tight). How weird is that? I screwed the new 5-40 into the top of the mounts to( without engine of course) and they screwed perfectly into both mounts. How weird is that? Anyway I’ll post a few pics tomorrow of my admittedly minor progress. Got a few kore things on the way too. Take care

that is quite strange on the mounts, on one of the ones that i got, the previous owner had forced 3mm screws in instead of the stock 5-40, it works and tighens down, eventually i want to get the finned engine mounts though.
it is interesting you say that about your body posts not lining up the same, now that i remember that both of my LSTs fit ever so slightly different, the one "shorter" than the other, by a few MM, it was enough i could bend the extended mounts to work, but when the body was low it wouldnt.
cant wait to see pics!

Got a few pics for you guys! Don’t mind the butterfly table cloth, my fiancé loves when I work on my nitro in the dining room table lmao. Here we go
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...679b86537.jpeg
New mounts
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Radom screw to keep the servo in place
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Looking at the picture, left side is stock engine mount screws. Right side is where I had to put the 4-40 1/2 inch screws for some reason. But it works and the mounts right. Wish I knew why the 5-40 half inch screws I got don’t work though
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...11fb6061d.jpeg
Truck with body on top
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Rear mounts fit great.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ae615cbe4.jpeg
Got the body jammed on the front mounts. It will actually stay on with body pins, but I should widen the holes a bit for a better fit. It’s freaking tight on there

Hope everyone is having a great easter! Just a small update, I’m waiting on a new hitec power switch, and eco power 5 cell nimh pack, and I ordered an original lst engine complete with flywheel, clutchbell, and hopefully the elusive brass collet I haven’t been able to find. The motor has no compression and it was sold as such for parts or whatever. Will update again when parts come in. If I play my cards right, all I’ll have to do is put those parts in and throw the dynamite .28 in if I choose. Or I’m going to order this: https://wallacemotorsports.net/ielas...-truck-engine/

if you don’t find that collet let me know I have one new in pack along with the nut

You’re awesome, Will do my friend! Thank you very much for the offer. The busted Mach 26 should be here this week, fingers crossed.

Mach .26 sleeve and pistons are still pretty readily available as well. Right around 40$. That nova looks really awesome though!

good to know about the Mach. I didn’t even think about looking up piston and sleeves and stuff. Might be good. I am definitely leaning towards the nova engine though. Looks super nice and for 179$ it seems like it would be hard to beat

Hey guys quick question. How am I supposed to get the flywheel off? I’ve seen flywheel pullers on eBay and stuff but is there anyway I can pop it off with a screwdriver? It’s on the eBay engine right as can be, already took off clutchbell and bearings and clutch from eBay engine

Typically I will get some vice-grips, grip the flywheel, pull off the nut. Then you can lightly tap the back of the flywheel and will usually pop off.
if that doesnt work you "can" wedge off with a screwdriver, it can damage the crankcase though so be carefull.

alrighty thanks brother. I think I got a little aggressive but I got it off

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Here’s the all elusive collet!
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guess I gouged the crankcase, this was the Mach .26 though and I don’t plan on using it. If I ever do rebuild it though hopefully it’s okay

One more question everyone, I now have three flywheels: which ones are usable?
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The flywheel on the left is slightly gouged on the inside from taking it off the eBay engine and collet. Can I sandpaper the inside slightly and get it smooth again?The flywheel on the right looks good on the inside and pins looks okay, just dirty.
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This flywheel looks good on the inside and outside except the pins are literally a blue color. Looks like it got a million degrees at some point. Is this bad or is it usable? Pins are the smoothest out of the bunch.

though some more dirty than the others, all those look to be in decent usable shape, and from the looks of the crankcase, should be usable as well, pic is a bit blurry, but looks to be primarily cosmetic damage.
i personally really like my Mach .26 in my LST and if you get the chance down the road really recommend rebuilding it.
and yes those are very elusive collets, does make me curious if a more standard one may be filed down though.

thanks for the help man! Yes I might rebuild the Mach at some point. I did read it was a really nice motor. This engine has very little compression and it’s missing the idle screw, and nut that keeps the carb stretched . It sounds fine though. I might disassemble it for fun just to get a look at it. And yes this collet is strange, I’m so glad I have one but in the future if anything happens with it, I’m just gonna try and use or modify a losi 8ight collet. I’m sure it’s something that can be done. About to throw on some aluminum lst shoes on one of these flywheels as we speak! Progress is good

Very nice.. Nice to see a clean LST.. Is that not an LST2? I always remember the original LST arms looking really skinny..

I took my ancient LST2 out last week, and it - unlike my RC8T and SC8 - simply would not start. No fuel leaking anywhere, I could see fuel going through the tube to the carb.The truck is pretty filthy and oily and grimy, so I may have to go pull the tank and replace the fuel tubing...

The AE cars ran perfectly.. All on 4- or 5-year old fuel...

BTW, I had a Big Red and it was great. The LRP ZR.30X converted to Spinstart was the best ever though...

I sold my OG LST2 from '06, but kept the LRP 30 and still have my #2 LST2. So I may just try swapping engines...

FWIW, I used to have a couple of Sportwerks 26s and they were identical to the Mach 26 afaik... Amain also had a red Mach 26 I believe..

I love that blue LST2 body.. I used to want one but they were always silly expensive...

Do they still have LRP 28 Spec 3s? Or did they ever come out with a 28 Spec 4? I looked on Amain and only saw a 32....

herrsavage, thanks I appreciate the kind words! I’m almost positive I have an LST, I bought it from eBay as a roller. Maybe it has Lst2 arms installed? I read your other thread about the old fuel and trucks it was Awesome. I’ll read more about the big red engines, on Amain they have a .26 and a .28, but deep down I want a nova 28-8 pullstart version. I got the body on eBay for 75$ plus shipping, was a pretty penny and now I’m afraid to run it whenever I get the truck up and running lol! I think they have a couple different lrps on sites other then Amain, but the one I always hear about is the .32. I’ve heard really good things about the engine and I’ve also heard really worrisome things about it( poor carb,burrs in the ports and metal fragments from the factory) basically just some poor quality control issues. But it’s good to hear feedback from someone that’s ran all the engines I’ve thought about running in the LST. I’m about to be 30 years old and I’ve ran everything from a Traxxas pro .15, Trx 2.5s, Sirios, os, Rb concept ws72(badass), stock team associated and Ofna engines over the years, and I can never recall having a defective or poor running motor ever so maybe it’s all a lack of skill with the people bashing lrp engines. Anyways thanks for checking out the the thread everyone, you’ve all been a big help in helping me Improve my wrenching skills and motivation in getting this truck running. Much gratitude and more pictures to come...probably tonight.

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I got my 3 shoe clutch set up
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Eco power 1200mah 5 cell
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New switch installed!

Looking good man!! looking at your pictures, i might actually have that same clutch shoe setup, mine came on the rig used so never was able to really tell. they work great if they are the same! does take a bit more RPMs than im used to, to engage, but once they grab they grab hard!
really excited to see your truck "done" !(are projects ever truly done?)

as far as if it is an LST1 vs LST2, yours does have rear turnbuckles, which typically are not added to the LST2, unless 4wheel steering is being added. your chassis rails are also LST1 not LST2, (LST2 did not have the opening in the rear for steering pins, were solid plastic.)

ill try to get a pic of the arms difference tonight for comparison, though both of my trucks are LST"1"s, the one has been updated to LST2 a-arms, axles, etc.

These are all pictures of the rear A-arm and carriers

LST1 Top A-arm and Hub carrier (notice the turnbuckle and hinge pin length)
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...1c54d3df0d.jpg

LST1 A-arm and hub carrier (again notice the turnbuckle and hinge pin length)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...46513782e7.jpg

LST2 A-arm and hub carrier (notice the lack of turnbuckle and hub carrier hinge pin length)
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8043f103bb.jpg
LST2 Top view A-arm and Hub Carrier (note lack of turnbuckle again and width of hub carrier pin.)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...1d073ae250.jpg

Nice comparison pictures man! I can clearly see the difference. The LST2 setup literally looks twice as beefy too.

lol really didn't realize exactly how big the pictures were, you can really see the fine detail in the nice Montana mud and dirt on them haha.
yeah alot more beefy wth the LST2, some still like the LST1 especially with racing for the weight savings.

Good morning everyone. So today, I’m ordering a brand new engine for the losi lst. I’m torn between the Novarossi .28-8port pullstart engine and the LRP .32 pullstart engine. I’m heavily leaning towards the nova, but I’m not counting the lrp out just yet. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated as to what engine I should purchase. Thanks everyone

I've been out of the game for a long time(five-ish years..), but my opinion used to be basically that LRP was the easy but good value and good power/speed option. A Nova or Picco was the "high quality" option, but often there were other factors involved. For one, a higher price, but that has changed I guess with Novarossidirect.

With the Italian engines fitment was not always as straightforward. I seem to recall talk of Piccos not fitting the chassis just right so dremmelling was required etc.. Then there is the need for turbo plugs, maybe the Italian engines are more picky re pipes for ex, and so on...

Here is my LRP ZR.30X from last week. The engine must be at least eight years old, and barely run the last five years at all..(maybe a couple tanks in one outing per year..)


To me that is THE engine for an LST2. Not sure how the LRP 32 would compare. I'd have to go search Youtube etc...
The Nova is no doubt awesome too. I was just always put off by how people talked like an Italian engine was a way to buy better "quality" or whatever... While that can be true, it isn't automatically so given all the variables...

People used to vehemently disagree with me though, and I'm sure still do. ;)

Both are basically awesome choices I bet....

personally i would go for the Nova.
either from what i hear are great choices, pretty much what it would boil down to for me is run time, smaller displacement.
the LRP Is a SH based engine which i have had great luck with, very few issues. eventually i want to get a nova though.
now that you bring up fitment though, i am remembering having to shim the engine up slightly as the seam on the bottom would impact before the engine mounts were tight.