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Old 12-09-2017, 11:28 AM
  #1156  
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Pretty much the sale prices at nitrorcx are the normal prices. But they usually don't discount the tacon stuff beyond that more then 5%. But your right there is at least a color in any style in both brushed/brushless in the holiday20 sale.
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Old 12-09-2017, 01:06 PM
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seems like the red brushless vehicles are on sale.
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Old 12-16-2017, 07:49 PM
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Just an FYI for those getting brushless cars from nitrorcx. Looks like they are coming with a rebranded hobbywing 16bl30 speed control and the settings are all default which is great for lipo batteries. With the nimh battery included the esc was producing power sporadically, the fix is just to just disable the low voltage cutoff and hasn't been a problem since.

Seems like a great little esc - it even has a timing advance system similar to maybe boost/turbo....so far that seems to make a bit of a difference on the top end. Scratching my head on how it works being sensorless.
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:28 AM
  #1159  
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Mine came alive on Friday. Awesome Truggy at an even better price point. Handles the grass with ease and man is it fast on the 1800mAh 2S LiPo. I ordered the ARTR version from Warren RC, $205.00 shipped, just add RX and LiPo.
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Old 12-24-2017, 12:28 PM
  #1160  
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Here are some pics of my buggy converted into MT, short wheelbase. As well as some pictures of my SCT conversion. These pics are a couple of months old. The MT is a buggy again and the SCT isn’t running.













EDIT: Don't know why the pics came out sideways... I can't fix that with the website I use for pictures so I guess you'll just have to tilt your screen lol.

Last edited by noel02; 12-24-2017 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 01-02-2018, 02:22 PM
  #1161  
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Originally Posted by scoobyrs25
I am using a set of Proline Microns. Very nice at my track.

My car has evolved nicely. I went with the SC plastic chassis and the Phat Bodies lid. The car is amazing. I just ordered the aluminum SC chassis and the carbon deck to go with it. There is likely too much flex for my track with the plastic chassis. I also ordered some rear shocks for the front. I think it needs the extra travel. Just moving the rear shocks to the inner a arm holes really helped the car gain stability.

While the top end of this car is great, it lacks punch. I'm using the stock brushless stuff and the Turnigy Lipo that is 1600 mah and 20C. I have my eyes on a slightly bigger pack with a 40c rating. Do you think the higher discharge rate will add the needed punch, or should I upgrade the motor?
Where did you find the carbon fiber chassis and top brace
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:15 PM
  #1162  
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...... duplicate

Last edited by BigBoss0311; 01-02-2018 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 01-02-2018, 08:39 PM
  #1163  
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Originally Posted by cernst29
Where did you find the carbon fiber chassis and top brace
Caster racing or rcmart will have the parts you need. Caster is U.S. based and ships fast. I have used both places and can recommend.
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Old 01-21-2018, 03:53 PM
  #1164  
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Yesterday half way through a pack I noticed the Truggy was acting just like a two wheel drive truck. On tear down I noticed that the grub screw that attaches the center drive shaft to the front diff was gone. I dug through my box of random RC stuff and was lucky enough to find another grub screw that fit. I added some blue loctite and was back in business. Today halfway through my first pack the same thing happened again. I had one more grub screw laying around that would fit so in it went with more blue loctite. This time I'm letting the loctite sit and dry overnight. Is this a common thing? Any other tricks other than loctite?
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Old 01-21-2018, 04:27 PM
  #1165  
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Yes, the set screw on the drive hubs will come loose without something to hold it. Letting the Loctite cure overnight should solve the problem.

Another thread locker that has been mentioned is Vibra-tite. I haven't used it but I ordered some.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...-tite&_sacat=0
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Old 01-22-2018, 07:15 AM
  #1166  
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we see this issue at our track commonly. Even with loctite it is possible for it to let loose. Feel free to be liberal on the loctite there.

Something else with the truggies we see is that the slipper pads do glaze faster. I am curious if anyone has tried to scuff up the slipper plates themselves to see if they get a bit better slipper action?

Tried Losi pads recently but still had slipper open up a bit. Going to look into degreasing the plates but curious what others have done.
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:02 AM
  #1167  
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Originally Posted by Cain
we see this issue at our track commonly. Even with loctite it is possible for it to let loose. Feel free to be liberal on the loctite there.

Something else with the truggies we see is that the slipper pads do glaze faster. I am curious if anyone has tried to scuff up the slipper plates themselves to see if they get a bit better slipper action?

Tried Losi pads recently but still had slipper open up a bit. Going to look into degreasing the plates but curious what others have done.
I noticed that problem too this past week on my MT. The slipper pads glaze and the slipper nut backs off as well. I’ll get a new slipper assembly and see if that fixes the issue.

Last edited by noel02; 01-22-2018 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:57 AM
  #1168  
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Originally Posted by noel02
I noticed that problem too this past week on my MT. The slipper pads glaze and the slipper but backs off as well. I’ll get a new slipper assembly and see if that fixes the issue.
what backs off, sorry no following ?

Gonna ask this question on another area about slipper plates.

heck, if they could make a gear diff conversion that would be awesome.
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Old 01-22-2018, 10:45 AM
  #1169  
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A center diff would be the best solution.
I used to get too much slip on my slipper clutch but then I cranked them down tight. I only run in loose dirt though. On a high traction surface that wouldn't be the best plan of attack.
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Old 01-22-2018, 10:56 AM
  #1170  
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yeah we crank these pretty hard down but you can still slick them. short of some garolite material pads that don't fade going to have to look into some options.
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