eR1c

iTrader: (2)

I saw that too as well as some mod's on YouTube that people have done. I plan to keep mine completely stock, only upgrade being the light kit when Kyosho makes it available/in stock. It works great and the body is beautiful as is in my opinion.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

looks like Kyosho is working on option parts for the 4x4 line of mini z's
https://kyosho.amebaownd.com/posts/8396474

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

..and a few new color options for the Suzuki
https://rc.kyosho.com/ja/newitem/202...INI-Z+4%C3%974

Raman

iTrader: (94)

eR1c, stop tempting me with this truck 🤣 I’m going to have to place you on my block list 😂

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

LOL!
I am not a "scaler" off-road guy at all, but have to say I am 100% impressed by this truck. It's a lot of fun.

Fortunately your in luck as they are mostly out of stock everywhere online. A hobby shop about an hour from my house had a few of the dark silver 4Runners in stock ...Got one on a whim. If I go back I may have to pick up another and bill you for it.

Congrat's at TCS by the way!
Looks like our TCS isn't happening ...still no word.

TPDazzle

I agree, but pretty soon Kyosho will come out with some goodies that will be hard to say no to. Especially the oil filled shocks.

zxcvb1t

Don't have high hope of keeping your truck stock lol. I promised myself when I bought my first mr03 that all I will do is swapping tyres, bearings, t plate and springs. Now, I end up with half a dozen chassis with various parts fit onto them. I am not even racing but it gets addictive quickly...

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

LOL you are correct. ....I always start w/ good intentions though.

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

Isn't that what they say about the road to Hell?
;-)

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Correct.

I prefer

I may be going to Hell in a bucket. But at least I’m enjoying the ride.
Greatful Dead.

superfly05

Well how many cars is too many, anyway?

My problem is wanting one of each option, and wanting to run different bodies and chassis configurations without having to swap nose clips and wheels. I like having brushed and brushless options at 90mm, 94mm, 98mm, and 102mm, that's 8 cars right there! ( I don't actually have a brushless at 94mm, but the others are covered). At 90mm and 94mm, MM and RM are both interesting and fun. Maybe you need a PN chassis or two in the mix. Maybe you want to run an Audi R8 and a McLaren 12c at 98mm. Maybe you want HFAY-spec cars at a couple wheelbases, in brushed and brushless. Maybe you need a stock and a mod car at each wheelbase. Maybe you need a couple cars with headlights. Maybe there's a shelf queen body, but you want it on a real chassis instead of a dummy.

I used to just try to achieve the fastest, most drivable car I could get. Now I see driving cars with less than ideal wheelbase, wheel offset, body weight, etc. as sort of a handicap and a challenge.

Honestly, my biggest problem by far is finding enough time to run them all. Any given club night, I'll run 5 or so, depending on what everyone else is running. I had to start keeping a chart

zxcvb1t

For me, the problem begins with the difficulty to position myself as a driver or a collector. I understand collecting miniz shells can be very expensive in the long run and those discontinued bodies will be damaged if I drive recklessly. On the other hand, I want to try different bodies to tell the difference and find one that suits me the most. I am still missing the other half of my Kyosho track due to what's going on with the world now, which makes me even more willing to spend on purchase bodies, chassis and set them up in the different configurations.

Although without much doubt, the fastest (or the easiest to drive) bodies that are available for purchasing now will be decided between R8 2012, R8 2015, and 12C, I still have a couple of supra, 575 and NSX (both old and new )i Mainly because a lot of them are used so I can have them cheaply, but I prefer the look of racing cars. I guess I haven't been matured enough to say no to flared wheel arches and big spoilers...

There are certain bodies I have that may never be driven. I had a 2007 ARTA NSX and a metallic Red Laferrari. Since they will never be back in production, I guess I will treat them as shelf queen instead of beating them up like my armies of R8S.

SquadPainter

•• Advice on converting FWD to AWD ••

I had a Mini-Z many years ago and the bug bit me again. I picked up an MR-03 Audi R8 Readyset a week ago for grip racing. I just picked up a MA-3F Prius Readyset for $129 intending to convert it to an AWD drift setup. I'm going to follow Beaver's game plan. I have lots of experience with working on laptop hardware, so I'm not worried about the disassembly and reassembly. It's the parts that confuse me. I know that I need 4 parts to make this happen:

• MA030 Center shaft(s) - I picked those up. Easy.
• 6x10x3 bearings (qty 2) - I've been able to locate those on a few online sites. No problems.
• Swing Shafts for rear wheels - I've been able to find those as well. I understand that the body that I choose (can't abide the Prius) will determine if I need standard or long.
• Differential - "Any Mini Z AWD will do" according to Beaver. A few questions on this!

So, regarding the diff:

1. The standard one that they show is the MD005 ($7.99 and out of stock at Kenon), but I can't find them anywhere. The price is right and I want one... I think.
2. Will the standard MD005 diff be good for drifting? Beaver mentions using a "ball diff" so that he can switch between grip and drift. The only one I've been able to spot costs $50. Ouch. I don't know how to adjust a differential. Maybe spending $50 and having to adjust it might be too much hassle? Maybe not?
3. If I wanted to just make a drift car, I've read that a glued diff or locked diff would be best. Again, I can't find any info on that... or any parts that might get me to a solid rear axle setup.

Thanks in advance for any advice. I live in the San Diego, California area and I'm trying to support my local(est) hobby shop who supports Mini-Zs: Kenon... so if any parts can be sourced from them that would be ideal.

Best,
Jeff

superfly05

Banzai has them: https://banzaihobby.com/radio-contro...set-mini-z-awd

SquadPainter

Thanks for the quick reply! The $20 cost (price + shipping) for the MD005 makes me wonder if the ball diff might be a better choice... it's suddenly not that much more expensive.

Now my fingers are crossed for answers to my other questions.

• Will the standard MD005 diff make it easy to drift?
• Is it worth having an adjustable ball diff to go between grip and drift, or is it a pain to adjust?
• If a solid rear axle is what I need to drift, is there another part that would be better for a permanent locked rear differential?

Best,
Jeff