rcuser123

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Yup, right on...the axle carrier was cracked allowing the axle to spin freely. I was able to push down on the top suspension arm plate MZ406 which held the axle still to remove the wheel nut and wheel. Added a drop of CA glue into the cracked area for a temp fix. Who knows how long it’s been running like that without me even knowing lol

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

I broke one in the first round of a race. And managed to run the full day

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Over 2,000 laps on this set on current layout.

Zerathul

Well i might buy 1 awd and 1 rwd. How is awd on track?

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

It was ok. AWD felt weird at this scale.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Hi Bill, Is there any advantage to the MM2 rear pod with the disk under the shock? I am assuming that is for controlling roll?

Traveler2

iTrader: (1)

The disk damper system is a huge improvement over just a t-plate and top shock. There are spring loaded disks below and above the damper plate. It provides a lot of stability in all directions and lubes can be used to dampen/tune the rear end. A+

You can see my latest build using the MM2 HERE

Raman

iTrader: (94)

So can the disk damper be used on the RM? Also where did you get the hex screws? I need to order those asap

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Does anyone have a solution for charging without removing the batteries? They are a pita to remove

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Yes. My RM also uses the disk damper. I resisted at first to use it. But after awhile, about 6 months, finally gave in.

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

It’s gets easier. I use a small screwdriver to get them out. On racedays I’ll do 14 charge cycles between two cars. We usually get 6-7 rounds each class.

rcuser123

iTrader: (1)

It was a surprise to me on how snug the batteries fit. I dont have a solution to charging inside the car. But since Im just running for fun inside the house, I left the battery holder clips off. Don’t recommend this if racing though.

Using a small flat screwdriver I’ll remove the batteries in 1 of 2 ways. One is to lay the the screwdriver on the + end of the battery and push against the tab where the - side is and pry up at the same time. Gotta be careful not to tear the casing of the battery.

Other way is to push with the screwdriver from the underside through the openings; I usually have the screwdriver more towards the + terminal.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

I have been using one of the tools that came with kit to pop the battery out from the chassis underside. Seems to work.. Shame one of those JST plugs on top of chassis can't be used as a charge jack.. would make things nice!

I have to say I am impressed with the kit tyres that came with the car.. My son has been driving his MR-03 Nissan GTR on the hard wood floor.. they offer very good grip. I recall my MR-01 years back.. would just spin out.... which resulted in my buying the MA010... I was initially tempted to go the AWD route again.. now I see no use for it.. So they have come a long way.

I need to make my way to Home Depot to buy some grey Ozite for the track I'm going to build in the garage.. hope I find the right one available locally..

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Once you get the stock tires on RCP track. Or try a better set. You’ll see the difference. I ran the stocks for 2 months. Then went to the group I race with. Could not even run a lap on the smooth side with them. One gave me a few worn sets that improved my FWD and RWD by over a second a lap at home.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

What tyres does you recommend. I’ll be running on gray ozite in garage.

also.. can someone tell me what this little tool is for?