LJH

iTrader: (2)

Munger,
I just have to say thanks for the tip on using Helicoils. The postman dropped off the kit on Saturday and I installed a couple this morning in the one chassis that was getting to the point of being close to unusable and they worked perfectly.

Thanks again.

Cheers,
Jim

Slot-machine

iTrader: (1)

Could somebody 3D print upper and/or lower suspension mount arms to affect 0.5 camber increments for each mount?

mugler

iTrader: (3)

PN makes upper arms but in 1 degree camber increments and caster can be adjusted via shimming on the aluminum tower bar however shims below and above knuckle also effect camber. Before switching to only AA arms the fastest set up in the club (PN home track) was 0 degree upper arms with 1mm shimm on top and .5mm shim on bottom of knuckle with tires trued anywhere from 22.8 good all the way down to 22.2ish ...most racers preferred shimming for the middle caster setting. With that in mind using new plastic caster arms .5 lower / 1mm upper shim should still be a very good starting point.

Traveler2

iTrader: (1)

Good info! Is this spacing with the PN low down knuckle or stock plastic knuckle?

Also, any idea what degree of caster the stock plastic arms are?

Thanks!

mugler

iTrader: (3)

Good point! the shim spacing was with PN's low down knuckles not the stock plastic , also as memory is trickling back I'll add that i always used the 246 spring perch with 1.00 preload and the navy blue PN front springs.
No matter which knuckle is used going for parallel to ground upper arms with least amount of droop is the sweet spot for best overall front suspension geometry.

I believe the stock plastic arms have 0 degrees of caster.

Traveler2

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Mugler!

izzyracer

iTrader: (27)

Maybe you guys need one.
I bought an extra one too many. NIB
Kyosho Mini Z Evo Futaba Receiver Unit

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

Has anyone attempted to dye the PN white wheels? Suggestions? Caveats?
Thx.

MrTexR

Ok, I'm fairly new to RC cars after not having one for >15 years. I have a few questions, that I hope some of you can help me out understand.

1. I bought 2 RWD cars, a Audi R8 LMS NBR 2010 and a McLaren P1 GTR. It seems like the Audi handles way better. At first I thought I was going insane, but after looking around on the net, it seems like it does in fact handle slightly better. Or is my mind playing tricks on me? If it is not playing tricks on me... do the other Audi R8 (2015/2016) models handles as well?

2. The front knuckles keep breaking on me?!?! doe these parts break that easy? on one, I was removing the knuckle and notice that the metal pin was also rotating when I was trying to remove the nut.. 2nd had the same problem when I tired to screw in the locknut... am I just bad at this? unlucky, or do they just break like crazy?

3. are the locknuts sold by Kyosho just plain m2 locknuts like the ones damn tried to link to McMaster but it won't let me...


thanks!

Traveler2

iTrader: (1)

Welcome to the world of Mini-Z!

1. The body will impact the handling, but both those bodies handle pretty well. To make sure the difference is from the body, and not a chassis issue, why don't you swap bodies between chassis. If the handling moves with the body, its the body difference. If is stays with the chassis, it a chassis issue. Process of elimination.
2. Stock knuckles break if you breath on them. I run the PN low downs on all my cars. Part MR3032
3. The Kyosho lock nuts are some of the best in my opinion.

Traveler2

iTrader: (1)

Wade Smith from China Grove area used to dye his black with Rit. You could reach out to him if you know him. He races other scales now.

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

You’ll get a range of opinions.

I haven’t run the P1. Buy do run the Audi on multiple cars. I’ve mostly found bodies to be similar. So do better a not getting stuck to the side rails on contact.


No problems with the stock steering knuckles. Only broke a couple in two years between 6 RWD. I have moved to the aluminum steering blocs. More out of curiosity then need.

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Starting to wonder what the PN chassis would be like for one of my Evos.

tomthegeek

iTrader: (2)

I didn't notice much difference in handling but I really like how easy it makes changing batteries. It does limit body selection though, the McLaren 12c need the side clips cut down some in order to fit.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

I’m looking at Mini Z MA-030 Evo. I used to own a MA-010 years back. For batteries, LiPo is not an option still? Only AAA?