Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

Yeah like a dry lube like moo slick or something along those lines. But you're probably right it just needs to break in a bit. If some runtime doesn't help I have some moo slick I can try out.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

which disc damper are you using? My latest PN discs are a tight fit on the post. I used a body reamer, spun opposite direction until the was no stiction on the post, but not to the point that there is slop.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

Right now I'm just using the stock one that comes with the MM2 Evo chassis. At least I am pretty sure it is a disc damper that comes equipped on the car. It is all plastic from what I can tell.

art4242

On all my cars which use PN disk dampers I use a 40 weight shock oil, makes a pretty big difference compared to dry at least on a larger track (20 tiles).

On the MM2 mount/damper (which is what I think comes on the EVO chassis) which I have on an RWD car, I initially tried it dry and it seemed ok. I then added the 40wt oil and it was maybe a little smoother but not significantly, but have only had a chance to try this out on a small HFAY size track. The MM2 disks are much smaller in area than the PN discs, so maybe something of higher viscosity could help.

If it's sticking on the post, it looks like the post on the MM2 is hexagonal, and the discs are molded with a hex hole. There could be some molding flash on the hex hole or around the plate which may be causing binding. The up down sliding action on the MM2 does not seem as smooth as the regular round post/discs on the PN damper (the PN disks are always a little tight and need some reaming to move freely).

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

It seems to be sticking on the post itself so perhaps I could disassemble it and see if I can clean anything up around there. I appreciate the tip on that. I didn't even think of flashing.

Billy Kelly

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EMU

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When I assemble the MM2, I LAP the plate and discs with 1000 grit, and run a small file around the damper post and inside of the discs where they fit around the post to reduce any stiction. It works well enough out of the bag, but I have found that this small process can help free up any flashing from the molding process and improve the consistency of the damping. I do the same treatment on the plates of the carbon and FRP damper. The machined discs don't need to be lapped, but molded discs like the 3racing or r246 should be.

Scuffing the plates also make it more consistent when using lube with the discs. I mostly run the discs dry, unless the track is particularly bumpy.

when I install a disc on the post without a spring, I want it to drop to the base of the post without stiction or slop. The discs will loosen with use, so I usually err on the side of stiction over slop.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

That is some great info on how to deal with the stiction Thank you for that and it looks like I will try to remove any obvious flashing left over and then will test it out dry this weekend to see how things go. I'm itching to finally see how this thing handles out of the box.

orcadigital

iTrader: (61)

I'm definitely not there yet. I do like the Next Level Timing software for practice as it focuses on consistent laps, but with changing layouts as often as we are for HFAY, I seem to always be learning the line and where its worth driving a longer line at faster speed vs a tighter line at less speed and what is ultimately faster and consistent for me.

I guess i prefer my racing a little different. I tend to run with the same people and in some cases have for many years and we know each other and our driving styles. We know where we have to backoff in relation to each other and where we can push it, where we can go side by side and where we cannot. No mind games, just having a better focus that day and a better setup car that day. It means we can usually run very close to each other without incidents, and that pressure is a large part of the fun, knowing even going too wide in a corner will cost you the position. No secrets, just the fun of laying it all out there.

Definitely having to let the tire cool as i cut it. I will keep playing with it, as all my tire truing experience up to the mini z's was foam.

On Steve's car we did everything on your list with the exception of adding lower weight (dont have any), removing upper weight (already a lexan windshield) and a larger rear wing. Running PN firms on +3 rims, yellow PN springs on the AA front end. Lowest camber, camber gain and caster settings. I hate admitting it, because it was always one of the settings I struggled with the most in understanding, but I wish we had more roll center adjustments. My car still has +2 fronts, taller tires and mediums so i have some more i can still give up. A lot of our challenges continue to come down to a track that is setup outdoors each week, so the tiles are always in different places and we get a lot of dust and pollen buildup especially this time of year. On Sunday, we had birds nesting overhead that were dropping twigs and feathers on us and the track during the qualifying heats and mains. Adds to the challenge hehe.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

An inexpensive means of adding weight is tungsten putty. Fill the crevices between the battery terminals, and tape over it with packing tape. The PN weight set is good, I use it on a few cars, but is expensive.

Roll center adjustments are pretty limited. It is one reason why I stick with a traditional style front end with a tower bar. This allows me to fine adjust the roll center as needed. Of course, this works better with spring over kingpin suspension setups, or you need to adjust the spring preload as you raise or lower the tower/shim kingpin to adjust roll center. The PN a-arm his limited options but has its benefits.

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

Update on my stiction issue: I basically just reassembled the unit and flipped the top disc around. It's not perfect but it feels a lot better. And with some lapping like EMU suggested or just regular use I can see this improving as well.

art4242

I think the best bet to help the traction roll would be adding lower weights. One solution that should fit regardless of chassis is a lower front brass plate like this.I remember seeing a 3D sintered bronze version as well for sale somewhere.

Mini-Z Racing Italia - Shop

The plate is pretty hefty, also changes the fore/aft balance of the car some and makes it overall less reactive and more stable.

If it's an MR-03 chassis, as EMU mentioned PN sells small triangle weights which work well. If I remember correctly you're running a PN2.5 chassis with a setup similar to mine . For the PN chassis it's harder to add weight, I ended up sticking a chunk of lead into the center tunnel area in front of the switch. And on my lithium cars I also glued on chunks of lead onto the outer sides of the chassis in front of the battery clips.

One other possibility would be trying some different front tires. Marka fronts V6F25 should be about right, or go even harder to V6F30. Both of these should have lower traction than the PN KS tires. I have not tried the PN KS-M firms, but I have tried KS-M mediums and they had a little less traction than the regular KS mediums.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

I have seen the lower servo cover weight from shapeways, however have not purchased it. X-power have a copper model for the mrx which I had purchased for my MRX, but it is incompatible with the mr03. It is also incompatible with the atomic lower tower bar on the MRX.

I might need to give the marka weight a try, especially on 94mm configurations which could use a little extra low mass just behind the front axle.

if you gave a car just on the edge of traction rolling, adding some weight can really help settle it down. But, then we typically start looking for more speed again, and the cycle continues.

edit: the location which you add weight under the chassis has considerable influence on how it effects the handling characteristic. Adding in the center line, will have the most rotation, where adding more outwards from the center line will numb the rotation.

on my 94mm superstock car, I used r246 weights under the lipo, and used the 4 heaviest ones. I initially started with 2 heavy and 2 light, (heaviest towards the center), but the car was too edgy. I moved the heavy to the outside and light inside, and it improved but I still had little confidence in the car through fast change of direction. Once I swapped the light weights for the heavier ones, the car settled down enough to be consistent. The fact that the car uses lipo changes the handling characteristic from AAA because the reduced mass of the lipo. I also had the large pn t-plate weight installed. I had checked the shop at the track for the triangle weights, but they did not carry them. My car weighed in at 184g at this point, but I had wanted to get closer to 190g. Since this class is gear restricted, and mostly riding the rev limit the entire time, adding a lot of weight is not as much of a hindrance on top speed or acceleration as it would be for a stock class car.