7843LikesKyosho Mini-Z Series
04-29-2019, 02:52 PM
#3826
The MM2 mount can run 94 and 98mm effectively. It should come in the 94mm wheelbase with the chassis in the narrow configuration if I am not mistaken. To change the wheelbase, you would move the chassis side of the t-plate and the disc damper rearward one screw hole to go to fron 94 to 98.
I have a Nissan GT-R R35 body that came with my MA-020. And all the specs I find for it say it is for the MA-020, and there is a separate MR03 version. But I put the MA-020 body mount onto my MR-03 chassis and the GT-R body clips in like normal and the wheel spacing seems perfect. I can use the GT-r offset wheels and clearance is fine even compressed.
Is there any disadvantage to running this? Or are the bodies actually interchangeable between the two chassis?
04-29-2019, 03:06 PM
#3827
Every Mini-Z body (outside of Overland, Monster, and F1) will fit on an MR03. The MR03 was designed to be a very versatile chassis. AWD chassis has a little more restriction on body choice, but not as much now compared to when AM was used and the crystal protruded the top cover.
Art, great info in your post. I agree 100% with everything posted. Although, I feel that it is important to diagnose where the traction roll is coming from. Sometimes it could be a tire rub, which going to a softer t-plate may not help. Adding weight to the bottom of the chassis, and reducing mass above the chassis is definitely an effective method.
I have not tried any Kyosho motor with Lithium power, so cannot really comment there.
Art, great info in your post. I agree 100% with everything posted. Although, I feel that it is important to diagnose where the traction roll is coming from. Sometimes it could be a tire rub, which going to a softer t-plate may not help. Adding weight to the bottom of the chassis, and reducing mass above the chassis is definitely an effective method.
I have not tried any Kyosho motor with Lithium power, so cannot really comment there.
04-29-2019, 03:16 PM
#3828
Every Mini-Z body (outside of Overland, Monster, and F1) will fit on an MR03. The MR03 was designed to be a very versatile chassis. AWD chassis has a little more restriction on body choice, but not as much now compared to when AM was used and the crystal protruded the top cover.
Art, great info in your post. I agree 100% with everything posted. Although, I feel that it is important to diagnose where the traction roll is coming from. Sometimes it could be a tire rub, which going to a softer t-plate may not help. Adding weight to the bottom of the chassis, and reducing mass above the chassis is definitely an effective method.
I have not tried any Kyosho motor with Lithium power, so cannot really comment there.
Art, great info in your post. I agree 100% with everything posted. Although, I feel that it is important to diagnose where the traction roll is coming from. Sometimes it could be a tire rub, which going to a softer t-plate may not help. Adding weight to the bottom of the chassis, and reducing mass above the chassis is definitely an effective method.
I have not tried any Kyosho motor with Lithium power, so cannot really comment there.
this means I have two more bodies to try on the Evo. Just need to decide on wheels.
04-30-2019, 12:05 PM
#3829
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Far south suburbs of Chicago area
Posts: 17,752
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
For any of the 600+ guest/ghost here just reading. I’d like to give a slightly different view of MiniZ. There’s nothing wrong with them in out the box form. A set of tires and go. Don’t get turned away by how technical the discussions have become.
With nearly unlimited tuning options, it’s not always needed. I’ve been running basically out the box cars for over a year. My FWD, other then tires is box stock. My McLaren long tail, tires and a T plate. And my RM Porsche only recently got T plate and disk damper.
I’m not being critical of my other MiniZ runners. But do know how overwhelming reading some of these post can be to a newly interested person. I’ve seen it in 1/10 Touring cars. People become obsessed with tuning and adjustments. When, just spending more time driving might be the simpler solution.
With nearly unlimited tuning options, it’s not always needed. I’ve been running basically out the box cars for over a year. My FWD, other then tires is box stock. My McLaren long tail, tires and a T plate. And my RM Porsche only recently got T plate and disk damper.
I’m not being critical of my other MiniZ runners. But do know how overwhelming reading some of these post can be to a newly interested person. I’ve seen it in 1/10 Touring cars. People become obsessed with tuning and adjustments. When, just spending more time driving might be the simpler solution.
04-30-2019, 12:17 PM
#3830
For any of the 600+ guest/ghost here just reading. I’d like to give a slightly different view of MiniZ. There’s nothing wrong with them in out the box form. A set of tires and go. Don’t get turned away by how technical the discussions have become.
With nearly unlimited tuning options, it’s not always needed. I’ve been running basically out the box cars for over a year. My FWD, other then tires is box stock. My McLaren long tail, tires and a T plate. And my RM Porsche only recently got T plate and disk damper.
I’m not being critical of my other MiniZ runners. But do know how overwhelming reading some of these post can be to a newly interested person. I’ve seen it in 1/10 Touring cars. People become obsessed with tuning and adjustments. When, just spending more time driving might be the simpler solution.
With nearly unlimited tuning options, it’s not always needed. I’ve been running basically out the box cars for over a year. My FWD, other then tires is box stock. My McLaren long tail, tires and a T plate. And my RM Porsche only recently got T plate and disk damper.
I’m not being critical of my other MiniZ runners. But do know how overwhelming reading some of these post can be to a newly interested person. I’ve seen it in 1/10 Touring cars. People become obsessed with tuning and adjustments. When, just spending more time driving might be the simpler solution.
I'd say the real money spending only comes once you get hooked by the bug lol.
04-30-2019, 01:09 PM
#3831
For any of the 600+ guest/ghost here just reading. I’d like to give a slightly different view of MiniZ. There’s nothing wrong with them in out the box form. A set of tires and go. Don’t get turned away by how technical the discussions have become.
With nearly unlimited tuning options, it’s not always needed. I’ve been running basically out the box cars for over a year. My FWD, other then tires is box stock. My McLaren long tail, tires and a T plate. And my RM Porsche only recently got T plate and disk damper.
I’m not being critical of my other MiniZ runners. But do know how overwhelming reading some of these post can be to a newly interested person. I’ve seen it in 1/10 Touring cars. People become obsessed with tuning and adjustments. When, just spending more time driving might be the simpler solution.
With nearly unlimited tuning options, it’s not always needed. I’ve been running basically out the box cars for over a year. My FWD, other then tires is box stock. My McLaren long tail, tires and a T plate. And my RM Porsche only recently got T plate and disk damper.
I’m not being critical of my other MiniZ runners. But do know how overwhelming reading some of these post can be to a newly interested person. I’ve seen it in 1/10 Touring cars. People become obsessed with tuning and adjustments. When, just spending more time driving might be the simpler solution.
there is no replacement for track time, and a box stock or close to box stock car with a couple of upgrades (bearings, disc damper and tires) is the best and most affordable way to gain experience without risk of getting lost in setup.
Because there is limited parity with how the cars come out of the box, it is difficult to regulate this lowest entry form for racing purposes. Which is why it was recommended for the M96WC time trials to have the box stock class run without a disc damper. All RWD cars outside of the LM models come without one, and it is easier to keep them that way for parity then to force the majority to install a damper than have the minority remove them to compete.
there are many option parts which do not offer performance gains, but a few that do. A disc damper has been my number one upgrade recommendation for a long time, as with that option alone, it gives a more consistent car which is not necessarily faster, but easier to stay on the racing line by calming down the rear end of the car.
knowing how your car will react, without needing to think about it is the first step to consistent driving and ability to race safely next to other racers.
many racers think that having specific parts on the car will automatically make them faster, which is often not the case. Often, it is how the car is built and not necessarily what it is built with that can make the difference. It is also the familiarity that the driver has with the car. Racing is much more psychological than people think. Having a familiar car can often be better than having one capable of faster laps. A simple setup with fewer options will have racers on track more than a complex one which keeps them in the pits wrenching.
04-30-2019, 05:17 PM
#3832
Tech Apprentice
For any of the 600+ guest/ghost here just reading. I’d like to give a slightly different view of MiniZ. There’s nothing wrong with them in out the box form. A set of tires and go. Don’t get turned away by how technical the discussions have become.
With nearly unlimited tuning options, it’s not always needed. I’ve been running basically out the box cars for over a year. My FWD, other then tires is box stock. My McLaren long tail, tires and a T plate. And my RM Porsche only recently got T plate and disk damper.
I’m not being critical of my other MiniZ runners. But do know how overwhelming reading some of these post can be to a newly interested person. I’ve seen it in 1/10 Touring cars. People become obsessed with tuning and adjustments. When, just spending more time driving might be the simpler solution.
With nearly unlimited tuning options, it’s not always needed. I’ve been running basically out the box cars for over a year. My FWD, other then tires is box stock. My McLaren long tail, tires and a T plate. And my RM Porsche only recently got T plate and disk damper.
I’m not being critical of my other MiniZ runners. But do know how overwhelming reading some of these post can be to a newly interested person. I’ve seen it in 1/10 Touring cars. People become obsessed with tuning and adjustments. When, just spending more time driving might be the simpler solution.
A basic near box stock car with tires/T-plate/damper can do surprisingly well, I purchased an RWD readyset last month just to play with. Here's a run I did a few weeks ago on one of the HFAY layouts:
04-30-2019, 06:43 PM
#3833
Tech Addict
Seems like I have problem with my asf car and radio (ex1ur and 901sm module).It was not until yesterday that I find out my asf mr03 goes faster in reverse than forward. It also has less punch and top speed compare to my sports. The battery , gearing are the same . Has anyone encountered this problem before? Thanks
04-30-2019, 07:17 PM
#3834
For any of the 600+ guest/ghost here just reading. I’d like to give a slightly different view of MiniZ. There’s nothing wrong with them in out the box form. A set of tires and go. Don’t get turned away by how technical the discussions have become.
With nearly unlimited tuning options, it’s not always needed. I’ve been running basically out the box cars for over a year. My FWD, other then tires is box stock. My McLaren long tail, tires and a T plate. And my RM Porsche only recently got T plate and disk damper.
I’m not being critical of my other MiniZ runners. But do know how overwhelming reading some of these post can be to a newly interested person. I’ve seen it in 1/10 Touring cars. People become obsessed with tuning and adjustments. When, just spending more time driving might be the simpler solution.
With nearly unlimited tuning options, it’s not always needed. I’ve been running basically out the box cars for over a year. My FWD, other then tires is box stock. My McLaren long tail, tires and a T plate. And my RM Porsche only recently got T plate and disk damper.
I’m not being critical of my other MiniZ runners. But do know how overwhelming reading some of these post can be to a newly interested person. I’ve seen it in 1/10 Touring cars. People become obsessed with tuning and adjustments. When, just spending more time driving might be the simpler solution.
04-30-2019, 07:41 PM
#3835
Seems like I have problem with my asf car and radio (ex1ur and 901sm module).It was not until yesterday that I find out my asf mr03 goes faster in reverse than forward. It also has less punch and top speed compare to my sports. The battery , gearing are the same . Has anyone encountered this problem before? Thanks
also if it is a brushed ASF car, check that it is not in chase mode.
My MINI-Z is much slower when going forward than going backward ? MINI-Z Info
05-01-2019, 07:39 AM
#3836
this is exactly why the most restricted kyosho stock class which we run is almost always the highest turnout and most competitive. There are many option parts for these cars, and it is already easy to get lost in the world of mini-z due to wheelbase and track width differences between the bodies and chassis.
there is no replacement for track time, and a box stock or close to box stock car with a couple of upgrades (bearings, disc damper and tires) is the best and most affordable way to gain experience without risk of getting lost in setup.
Because there is limited parity with how the cars come out of the box, it is difficult to regulate this lowest entry form for racing purposes. Which is why it was recommended for the M96WC time trials to have the box stock class run without a disc damper. All RWD cars outside of the LM models come without one, and it is easier to keep them that way for parity then to force the majority to install a damper than have the minority remove them to compete.
there are many option parts which do not offer performance gains, but a few that do. A disc damper has been my number one upgrade recommendation for a long time, as with that option alone, it gives a more consistent car which is not necessarily faster, but easier to stay on the racing line by calming down the rear end of the car.
knowing how your car will react, without needing to think about it is the first step to consistent driving and ability to race safely next to other racers.
many racers think that having specific parts on the car will automatically make them faster, which is often not the case. Often, it is how the car is built and not necessarily what it is built with that can make the difference. It is also the familiarity that the driver has with the car. Racing is much more psychological than people think. Having a familiar car can often be better than having one capable of faster laps. A simple setup with fewer options will have racers on track more than a complex one which keeps them in the pits wrenching.
there is no replacement for track time, and a box stock or close to box stock car with a couple of upgrades (bearings, disc damper and tires) is the best and most affordable way to gain experience without risk of getting lost in setup.
Because there is limited parity with how the cars come out of the box, it is difficult to regulate this lowest entry form for racing purposes. Which is why it was recommended for the M96WC time trials to have the box stock class run without a disc damper. All RWD cars outside of the LM models come without one, and it is easier to keep them that way for parity then to force the majority to install a damper than have the minority remove them to compete.
there are many option parts which do not offer performance gains, but a few that do. A disc damper has been my number one upgrade recommendation for a long time, as with that option alone, it gives a more consistent car which is not necessarily faster, but easier to stay on the racing line by calming down the rear end of the car.
knowing how your car will react, without needing to think about it is the first step to consistent driving and ability to race safely next to other racers.
many racers think that having specific parts on the car will automatically make them faster, which is often not the case. Often, it is how the car is built and not necessarily what it is built with that can make the difference. It is also the familiarity that the driver has with the car. Racing is much more psychological than people think. Having a familiar car can often be better than having one capable of faster laps. A simple setup with fewer options will have racers on track more than a complex one which keeps them in the pits wrenching.
I tried loosening the shock mount screw but no matter how loose it didnt prevent the friction.
I haven't tested it on track yet but I'm curious if this is normal.
Thanks!
05-01-2019, 09:30 AM
#3837
The whole premise of the disc dampener is friction which damps the oscillations of the rear pod. It is actually a pretty amazing tuning tool when you start to play with the springs and tension as well as different viscosity fluids. While I have found that springs came make big changes I have not found that fluids make much difference and even running dry can work well.
Cheers,
Jim
Cheers,
Jim
05-01-2019, 09:38 AM
#3838
The whole premise of the disc dampener is friction which damps the oscillations of the rear pod. It is actually a pretty amazing tuning tool when you start to play with the springs and tension as well as different viscosity fluids. While I have found that springs came make big changes I have not found that fluids make much difference and even running dry can work well.
Cheers,
Jim
Cheers,
Jim
05-01-2019, 09:44 AM
#3839
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Far south suburbs of Chicago area
Posts: 17,752
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
I did notice that when I installed it on the RM. It took some running before it felt smooth.