Kyosho Mini-Z Series
#3301
While I don't have an EX-6, I use many of the advanced settings on my helios. Throttle curves, throttle punch are very useful to dial in the throttle response of the car. For me, throttle feel is more important than steering. With slower motors I use punch and positive throttle curves (pinch sets the minimum throttle as the trigger is activated). Since i drive a lot of modified motors, i look to have the throttle feel when i drive stock similar to how my modified cars feel. This also gives me a finer resolution of throttle when the car is up to speed since the is greater throttle response on the bottom of the trigger.
in modified I often use zero punch and curve, occasionally a negative curve when traction is low.
steering I almost always use 0 curve. Occasionally I will use slower steering speed when turning when traction is high, but centering speed is always 100%. This reduction in steering speed is not good for smaller tracks, but large tracks it can reduce the car pitching hard into the corner.
I reduce the negative throttle channel EPA to the point that the brakes don't lock the car up, but map a button next to my thumb to full reverse to be able to reverse from a crash quickly.
I also map steering sub trim and dual rate to thumb switches. This allows me to adjust steering on the fly. If I want to reduce left steering and increase right steering, I can sub trim to the right, and then trim it out on the straight. Then the next practice session I can adjust the EPA and re recenter the sub trim and trim settings.
My familiarity with the helios is one reason why I have not really moved on from it despite its age and slow response.
in modified I often use zero punch and curve, occasionally a negative curve when traction is low.
steering I almost always use 0 curve. Occasionally I will use slower steering speed when turning when traction is high, but centering speed is always 100%. This reduction in steering speed is not good for smaller tracks, but large tracks it can reduce the car pitching hard into the corner.
I reduce the negative throttle channel EPA to the point that the brakes don't lock the car up, but map a button next to my thumb to full reverse to be able to reverse from a crash quickly.
I also map steering sub trim and dual rate to thumb switches. This allows me to adjust steering on the fly. If I want to reduce left steering and increase right steering, I can sub trim to the right, and then trim it out on the straight. Then the next practice session I can adjust the EPA and re recenter the sub trim and trim settings.
My familiarity with the helios is one reason why I have not really moved on from it despite its age and slow response.
#3302
I am not sure what sport means. It is a ready set with the blue and black transmitter with the blue light. MR-03 rear wheel drive.
#3303
There is an entry level model called MR03 RWD, the entry level model before was called MR03 Sport. You have the sport, which has an electronics package that is not as robust as the RWD model. It should still be able to handle the X-Speed, geared low (7t max). The ESC is on par with the old AM electronics (2x 3010 FET) which we used to use x-speed with regularly as well as other 50t or 48t motors. There were many reports of the sport electronics failing even with 70t motors. I believe that this is more related to static issues than the ESC failing due to motor load.
I have avoided the sports entirely, and was disappointed that Kyosho would even bring them to market with the backwards step in electronics compared to the ASF brushed boards that they replaced. This change caused a lot of issues within the scale, and I feel contributed to a decline in the racing of the Mini-Z.
The new RWD Mr03 is actually a good electronics package in comparison to the sports, most notably in the steering response. It is a step up in steering response of the ASF board as well, while the Sports was a noticeable step down in steering response.
I have avoided the sports entirely, and was disappointed that Kyosho would even bring them to market with the backwards step in electronics compared to the ASF brushed boards that they replaced. This change caused a lot of issues within the scale, and I feel contributed to a decline in the racing of the Mini-Z.
The new RWD Mr03 is actually a good electronics package in comparison to the sports, most notably in the steering response. It is a step up in steering response of the ASF board as well, while the Sports was a noticeable step down in steering response.
#3305
What part # is the new circuit board?
#3306
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
This one:
R/C Unit Set MINI-Z MR-03RWD/RA38 MZ414 - KYOSHO RC
It uses a different protocol than the Sports models so you'll need a new radio as well.
R/C Unit Set MINI-Z MR-03RWD/RA38 MZ414 - KYOSHO RC
It uses a different protocol than the Sports models so you'll need a new radio as well.
#3307
There were a bunch of these boards on ebay for about $25 a few weeks ago... now the cheapest that I can find is about $45. Saw a radio for about $40.
#3308
Packing for this weekend's race. Running an open 90mm class.
#3309
#3310
Anybody have experience with the PN DSM2 board. Just wondering if it needs throttle calibration and how one performs that task.
#3311
#3312
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
So, one I hope the pictures work or this will be a lame story. Got a chance to run my box stock car for the first time. Ran the PN 900 batteries charged up like I charge every set of batteries I own. Second pack goes in the car, goes great. After one race I notice it smells funny. Thought it was the motor, nope battery decided to melt my chassis. Super.
#3313
Tech Adept
[QUOTE=Links432;15401411]So, one I hope the pictures work or this will be a lame story. Got a chance to run my box stock car for the first time. Ran the PN 900 batteries charged up like I charge every set of batteries I own. Second pack goes in the car, goes great. After one race I notice it smells funny. Thought it was the motor, nope battery decided to melt my chassis. Super.
I never had great luck with PN batteries. With the PN North America race coming up in April you need to run PN 900 or Peak 900...I like the Peak 900 better. Recently I have found great success with Eneloops...nice run time and power. I have also tried the Amazon batteries but they seem to lack power (but at least they don’t melt my chassis!!!
I never had great luck with PN batteries. With the PN North America race coming up in April you need to run PN 900 or Peak 900...I like the Peak 900 better. Recently I have found great success with Eneloops...nice run time and power. I have also tried the Amazon batteries but they seem to lack power (but at least they don’t melt my chassis!!!
#3314
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Yeah, I have some older Peaks, but I figured I would be safe getting brand new batteries. I guess that bit me pretty hard.
*Edit* After going back and forth with Kenon they are going to help me out and replace the batteries and discount a replacement chassis for me. So that is some good news.
I never had great luck with PN batteries. With the PN North America race coming up in April you need to run PN 900 or Peak 900...I like the Peak 900 better. Recently I have found great success with Eneloops...nice run time and power. I have also tried the Amazon batteries but they seem to lack power (but at least they don’t melt my chassis!!!
*Edit* After going back and forth with Kenon they are going to help me out and replace the batteries and discount a replacement chassis for me. So that is some good news.
I never had great luck with PN batteries. With the PN North America race coming up in April you need to run PN 900 or Peak 900...I like the Peak 900 better. Recently I have found great success with Eneloops...nice run time and power. I have also tried the Amazon batteries but they seem to lack power (but at least they don’t melt my chassis!!!
Last edited by Links432; 02-23-2019 at 05:25 PM. Reason: Because
#3315
Tech Adept
Yeah, I have some older Peaks, but I figured I would be safe getting brand new batteries. I guess that bit me pretty hard.
*Edit* After going back and forth with Kenon they are going to help me out and replace the batteries and discount a replacement chassis for me. So that is some good news.
*Edit* After going back and forth with Kenon they are going to help me out and replace the batteries and discount a replacement chassis for me. So that is some good news.