I really needed to change my driving and approach to setup to really get up to speed on the brushless motors. Initially I had drag brake as high as I could get it, and never felt that I could have enough. Now, I am using much more front traction and offset than I had used in the past, really riding the front end more in and through the mid corner. With brushed motors, I used more caster and harder rubber with less rear droop. Basically using the drag brake to slow the car, and rotate into the apex where I could throttle steer off the corner to continue the rotation with a stiff center shock and aid of the caster to rotate at exit.

evaluating the huge evolution in setup over the last year, it is really quite different with what I am asking the car to do, where my throttle let off and pick up are, and where I turn in. The front end is really working much more, where before it was always relatively calm and low traction in comparison. Overall, I feel that this adjustment has made me faster, but if I were to go back to a brushed car, I would probably revert to the older style setup, but try a few different front tires.

i feel that the PN medium are great on my brushless cars, but would probably try GL 17 on a brushed car. The GL tires feel that they have a little less initial bite, and can operate at more slip angle without slowing the car as much, which I feel is better for the brushed setup. Back in the day, I loved atomic 40d front tires because they could handle a very wide slip angle and not scrub much speed and get the car turned well. This was my stock motor tire of choice for many years until it became known about silicone content in the line of tire and became outlawed at most tracks. Traction was slightly lower than kyosho 30 initially, but mid corner to exit it was very similar. You could drive as aggressively as you wanted, which I often did in those days, and never traction roll. Paired with k20 radials in the back, I could be competitive at many tracks with this configuration.

and I thought I was the only 1 who thought like that letting the front act like a drag brake to slow the car down bs having drag brake. I guess it's not that far off from 10th and 12th sale after all

The concepts from the larger cars definitely transfer.

in general, I had always favored high drag brake motors with lots of low end torque. Now that I have adapted my setup, I am carrying a lot more speed into the corner and through the apex, and lowering drag brake even further... this also allows me to roll through the corners a lot more, and get on throttle later and straighter which means less tire wear, more consistency, and better battery life.

see I was the opposite, I was never able to get a brushed car to feel the way I wanted it to because I never ran brushed motors ever in a racing application and my brushless application was more natural to me because of my background. I was taught to use enough brakes to slow the car down without locking the rear wheels up so this way the car dosnt get out of shape and can start loading up the front end with the full brake trigger vs trying to finesse the brake trigger to get it right everytime every lap. With 100 on the esc and turn it down as long as there is no expo on the brake side of the trigger it will feel like having 75 with 100% trigger pull and allows for adjustments on the fly because of where the brake d/r is on my radio

I was messing around with drag brake on the GLR, it works well on the Mini96 but on the large course at Tracks Hobbies it causes too many problems. Seems I get more traction rolling and the rear sliding out.

The track it up and looking forward to seeing what I can lay down.....

Full Send!!!!!

Cheers,
Jim

Try going to the smallest pinion you have. It will give you a little more drag brake. Did you set the neutral braking to 5 on the ICS?

Hey guys I have a like new Mini 96 track available. Don’t really have the room for it and need some cash so I wanted to sell. $100 local pickup in Stony Brook, NY on Long Island. Doesn’t make sense to ship. I’m also listing a nicely modded Mini-Z later today if you’re interested as well. You can PM me here or text me at 16316970722.

EDIT: Here is the link for the Mini-Z package I have for sale: Mini-Z Package For Sale!

Thanks,
Mike
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Hello All,
I spent a lot of time yesterday working on my Stock Car. A few weeks ago I decided to try the 360GTC body again after not having much luck with it early in my Mini-Z career. Back when I first ran this body I found that if you taped the boards you ended up on your roof. When I built this body I started with a cut down front spliter and had no issues with flipping after hitting the boards but I did have an issue with the front of the body dragging on the track so I started sanding the nose to gain clearance and had to completely remove the spliter and all of a sudden I started rolling when I hit the boards which produced a "Ah ha" moment. After learning this I used some styrene and made a new spliter and no more rolling....wish I had figured that out back in the day.

Both Traveler and Scionara have super fast Stock Class times so I have been chasing them with little success. I have ended up pretty much changing almost everything about the set up on the car and it is now significantly faster (fast lap 3.86s so far) and very consistent but I am not even in shooting distance of you guys. The car feel good I feel pretty good but I think all I have is like a 315s run in me......not sure how you guys are so much faster? I am going to keep at it.

Cheers,
Jim

And I had to use KT-18....
But now I got MR-03EVO and EX-RR to use next time. Hope I can play a bit before end og february, so I might be somewhat closer to you guys.
I think I will ditch my ProStock for such a narrow track, but we'll see.
I do need the track time to get up to speed.
Finished turning my home track to the smotth side and are currently building my bridge.
So I think with some TLC for my cars and finishing the bridge will help a lot now that I have 2 working cars.

I am so lost at what times people have.
Best lap time is not intresting, but the total are.
Do you have a list for Stock and ProStock at 75 laps?

I'm literally hugging the rails from 1 end to the other end coming onto the straight and off it. I have my body setup that it glides off it if it taps it and it dosnt get pulled into it so I can stay on power only letting off about 20 to 30%to let the front grip up to make the turn on turn 2 I think it is. Beginning coming onto the 2nd to last turn is 75% full on the straight 75% on turn 1 to 0% on turn 2 to feather threw the infield is how my memory is.

I pull the plug and purchase the kyosho RCP tracks. Due to the out of stock, on going lunar New Year holiday and corona virus outbreak, it will be at least a month before I can start running the program. All I can do now is preparing my chassis.

Here are 2 questions I'd like to know.
1. I want to do an MOSFET upgrade to my mr03 sport, namely transfer the MOSFET from a not working asf board to the sport board. Is this allowed? The chassis will be set up for stock class.

2. I would like to use a homemade motor in competition. Namely putting the stock mabachi rotor into a drilled motor case. Can such motor be used in stock class?

I hope the program can help me prepare for the kyosho national at the end of this year. I know it is strange to start practicing this early but I do need as much experience on running with RCP as possible.

NB,
Not sure why you are lost. Just take a look at peoples posts with times in them. Am I missing what you are looking for?

Let me know.

Cheers,
Jim

Glad you are joining us.

Here are some answers for you.

1. Yes, you can change out the FETs on the board in any class except Box Stock.

2. I would be fine with you taking a stock silver can motor and drilling it for fasteners but I think pulling the rotor out of a stock motor and putting it in another case is not in the spirit of the Stock Class.

While I am sure the Mini96 track will be significantly smaller than what the Kyosho Nationals will be run on I would think a lot of what you learn will be transferable. and be helpful with both your driving as well as set up.

Cheers,
Jim