RC BOAT
10-07-2010, 08:40 AM
#3106
10-07-2010, 05:48 PM
#3108
surge cruiser
brad nasa left side ata ang water intake ng rudder nyan eh kya dapat counter clockwise ka lagi mag patakbo o laging pa left ka mag turn para malakas yung flow ng water sa cooling system mo para d sya mag over heat at 2-3 mins run lang at pahinga mo yung boat kahit 1 min para sigurado d ka mag overheat esc mo at motor.
10-07-2010, 06:36 PM
#3109
@ sir teddy, cebuano karin po? located in cebu or manila? ganda ng boat sir more picture po
10-07-2010, 07:01 PM
#3110
Correct. He's the one who got our City Hall permit, our fun run at Clearwater, invitation to run at Lakeshore Pampanga . . etc. 
Yan ang problema ng Academy F1. Masyado kasi ang bend ng flexshaft (almost 45deg.) kaya madali maputol. 
Wala kasi brass tube sa loob. Pwede naman lagyan . . ito ang reason kung bakit nasa back-burner ang F1 ko. Pwede din buy ng ibang outboard - Graupner meron - mahal nga lang! Pwede din nitro . . . 
Wala kasi brass tube sa loob. Pwede naman lagyan . . ito ang reason kung bakit nasa back-burner ang F1 ko. Pwede din buy ng ibang outboard - Graupner meron - mahal nga lang! Pwede din nitro . . .
10-07-2010, 07:11 PM
#3111
Last edited by CARakter; 10-07-2010 at 07:35 PM.
10-07-2010, 07:58 PM
#3112
[QUOTE=CARakter;8041570]Correct. He's the one who got our City Hall permit, our fun run at Clearwater, invitation to run at Lakeshore Pampanga . . etc.
his really a gent, and i can attest to his sailboats, its of good craftsmanship and ang pinakamarami syang available is the mini soling. but the best is yung mga sailboat na replica ng volvo ocean race teams.
his really a gent, and i can attest to his sailboats, its of good craftsmanship and ang pinakamarami syang available is the mini soling. but the best is yung mga sailboat na replica ng volvo ocean race teams.
10-07-2010, 08:18 PM
#3113
brad nasa left side ata ang water intake ng rudder nyan eh kya dapat counter clockwise ka lagi mag patakbo o laging pa left ka mag turn para malakas yung flow ng water sa cooling system mo para d sya mag over heat at 2-3 mins run lang at pahinga mo yung boat kahit 1 min para sigurado d ka mag overheat esc mo at motor.
You can correct this by installing a separate pick-up tube . . . of course that's extra unwanted drag. But the benefits might overshadow the negatives.
Anyway, this problem will only be evident in the right turns. Once your're going straight, water will flow again. This is the reason why it's best for these Fast Electrics to run continously. Not the stop and go driving we are used to (like cars). You want water continously moving inside the water cooling. If you stop, water stops flowing.
But yes, if you stop for a longer amount of time, it will eventually cool down. So remember, when you stop, temps start rising a bit more before tapering off gradually. You can test this with your temp monitors. Unless of course you have the perfect setup wherein your system doesn't get hot (just warm) even after a full run.
Last edited by CARakter; 10-07-2010 at 08:32 PM.
10-07-2010, 08:35 PM
#3114
Pips
Hingi sana ako suggestion, ever since I build this boat a (Robbe PT15) about 4yrs ago na ata once ko lang sya na test on salt water pa kaya yun mga brass parts medyo nag oxide na buti na lang minimal lang. Originally the trany is a single 550 motor (i guess) with 4:1 gear reduction. Im not happy with the speed and brushless isnt hype at that time. I then transplanted the tranny from my Academy Triton Cat. So its powered by 2x540 stock motor, 12V Mtronics monster marine ESC using 2X 3S1P 2200mah. Now my problem is when its fast enough and float high on water it starts to tilt. Is this inherent to the design sa mga fully submerge prop because the stern tube and prop is aligned at an angle it continue to push the hull up till it tips? Tingin ko this is the reason why surface prop are common drive for fast running boats tama ba ako. Which means to say limited talaga speed ng fully submerged prop? Im not aiming for higher speeds naman right now I think its just 25~30KPH before the boat starts to tilt. Any help?
BTW, Im from Gen Trias so the nearest rc boat pond for me is Molino. Active po ba ang boater dun?
eto uli yun pics ng PT-15 boat ko
Hingi sana ako suggestion, ever since I build this boat a (Robbe PT15) about 4yrs ago na ata once ko lang sya na test on salt water pa kaya yun mga brass parts medyo nag oxide na buti na lang minimal lang. Originally the trany is a single 550 motor (i guess) with 4:1 gear reduction. Im not happy with the speed and brushless isnt hype at that time. I then transplanted the tranny from my Academy Triton Cat. So its powered by 2x540 stock motor, 12V Mtronics monster marine ESC using 2X 3S1P 2200mah. Now my problem is when its fast enough and float high on water it starts to tilt. Is this inherent to the design sa mga fully submerge prop because the stern tube and prop is aligned at an angle it continue to push the hull up till it tips? Tingin ko this is the reason why surface prop are common drive for fast running boats tama ba ako. Which means to say limited talaga speed ng fully submerged prop? Im not aiming for higher speeds naman right now I think its just 25~30KPH before the boat starts to tilt. Any help?
BTW, Im from Gen Trias so the nearest rc boat pond for me is Molino. Active po ba ang boater dun?
eto uli yun pics ng PT-15 boat ko
10-08-2010, 05:45 AM
#3115
@edwin - My opinion on this boat is that it's not designed to run fast. Why? Because it's a fully detailed boat. A fully detailed boat is made in such a way that you want to enjoy looking at it's detail while running . . . meaning scale speeds. And she's true to scale? - that means the hull is not designed in such a way that it will handle higher than normal speeds. There's only so much you can do for her in terms of speed.
Now, to answer your question regarding your conversion. You want the prop angle to be level with the boat to start with. Looking at your negative prop angle, it's supposed to push the bow (front) downwards. But since you have installed 2 motors and then powered her with 3S lipo each, despite it's negative angle, it's trying to launch your hull out of the water - yes it's overpowered.
My advice? Bring her back to stock configuration. If you want her faster, you can take out the reduction gears and go direct drive. I would probably use 2S on her. Faster? . . change to Sport Tuned motor. And make sure you have water cooling!
But if you want to go fast . . just get a Fast Electric.
Now, to answer your question regarding your conversion. You want the prop angle to be level with the boat to start with. Looking at your negative prop angle, it's supposed to push the bow (front) downwards. But since you have installed 2 motors and then powered her with 3S lipo each, despite it's negative angle, it's trying to launch your hull out of the water - yes it's overpowered.
My advice? Bring her back to stock configuration. If you want her faster, you can take out the reduction gears and go direct drive. I would probably use 2S on her. Faster? . . change to Sport Tuned motor. And make sure you have water cooling!
But if you want to go fast . . just get a Fast Electric.
Last edited by CARakter; 10-08-2010 at 06:10 AM.
10-08-2010, 06:46 AM
#3116
@edwin - My opinion on this boat is that it's not designed to run fast. Why? Because it's a fully detailed boat. A fully detailed boat is made in such a way that you want to enjoy looking at it's detail while running . . . meaning scale speeds. And she's true to scale? - that means the hull is not designed in such a way that it will handle higher than normal speeds. There's only so much you can do for her in terms of speed.
Now, to answer your question regarding your conversion. You want the prop angle to be level with the boat to start with. Looking at your negative prop angle, it's supposed to push the bow (front) downwards. But since you have installed 2 motors and then powered her with 3S lipo each, despite it's negative angle, it's trying to launch your hull out of the water - yes it's overpowered.
My advice? Bring her back to stock configuration. If you want her faster, you can take out the reduction gears and go direct drive. I would probably use 2S on her. Faster? . . change to Sport Tuned motor. And make sure you have water cooling!
But if you want to go fast . . just get a Fast Electric.
Now, to answer your question regarding your conversion. You want the prop angle to be level with the boat to start with. Looking at your negative prop angle, it's supposed to push the bow (front) downwards. But since you have installed 2 motors and then powered her with 3S lipo each, despite it's negative angle, it's trying to launch your hull out of the water - yes it's overpowered.
My advice? Bring her back to stock configuration. If you want her faster, you can take out the reduction gears and go direct drive. I would probably use 2S on her. Faster? . . change to Sport Tuned motor. And make sure you have water cooling!
But if you want to go fast . . just get a Fast Electric.
10-08-2010, 10:42 AM
#3118
Shaft Coupler
Guys I need help 
I need a shaft coupler for my boat 3mm (motor shaft) to 4mm (prop shaft) direct drive kasi boat ko..
Currently conducting testing when the coupler disintegrated
I need one asap para maka on-water test na ako
(otherwise cancel test ko mamaya sa QC pond)
Links, recommendation, referral or donation is HIGHLY appreciated
Thanks guys!!
Dongskie
I need a shaft coupler for my boat 3mm (motor shaft) to 4mm (prop shaft) direct drive kasi boat ko..
Currently conducting testing when the coupler disintegrated
I need one asap para maka on-water test na ako
(otherwise cancel test ko mamaya sa QC pond)Links, recommendation, referral or donation is HIGHLY appreciated
Thanks guys!!
Dongskie
10-08-2010, 06:46 PM
#3119
Sounds like they are morely gaser folks huh. I knew Talaba/Herbert saw few of his nice gasers in his house I guess thats a pretty good hint
10-08-2010, 06:55 PM
#3120