Chatman128

From ROAR Rule book regarding electric rules:

8.3.2.4 The battery pack shall have leads extending from the case for the positive
and negative electrical connections using wire of adequate size to handle
discharge rates acceptable to racing applications. Alternatively, the case shall
have external connection points for these wires clearly marked positive and
negative so the user can apply the lead wires. Markings on the case are
required stating the rated voltage and capacity of the battery. The Value
Added Manufacturers name and/or logo shall be easily readable on the case.
Individual cells used in the construction of the battery shall be rated at 3.7v
nominal. A 1s 3.7v nominal battery pack shall be 1 cell wired in series, a 2s
7.4v nominal battery pack shall be 2 cells in series, a 3s 11.1v nominal
battery pack shall be 3 cells in series and a 4s 14.8v nominal battery pack
shall be 4 cells in series. Multiple cells in parallel may be used.

And from the 1/10 scale truck specs:

8.10.2.4 Battery Cells: Six cell maximum or 2s, 7.4v nominal lipo battery

I think the last line of the cited battery spec paragraph, along with no parallel configuration limitation in the class spec, covers you.

Mystic

iTrader: (5)

I think I joined the wrong ROAR..... My membership did NOT come with a cute kitten :-/

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

Ah dang we can't make it a ROAR event......

Wait got it....for this race only no durango sc's lmao.....

We don't need no stanking roar

ohiostatechamp

iTrader: (59)

I have also found that the IR of a battery goes down when configured in parallel. There is also less demand on any given battery pack when in a parallel circuit due to the load being shared between to packs. If I can not use 2 2s in parallel, then I will use 2 1s packs and still have less of a strain then a saddle pack.

I really hope I am not offending anybody with this discussion.
Reuben

ohiostatechamp

iTrader: (59)

D@?n it! Looks like I'm out. Oh wait, I'm still in Ohio wishing I could be there.

SausageAssassin

That makes sense, I'll definitely give that a shot. Is it common for a diff to be that tight? The TLR video makes it seem like its much looser.

spu83

iTrader: (2)

Diff suppose to be diff not slipper. So diff suppose is tighter than the slipper.

Lazi

iTrader: (11)

Yes you can do 2X1s shorty!
if you put 2X2s shorty, it is basically 4s battery in your car! that's what i find out last time when i was looking for some solution for 10min main!
like i said i can do 10min with 5600mah saddle pack!

Lazi

iTrader: (11)

i know Reuben! i just telling my point of view! few months ago i vent one of the Roar race and that time i find out can`t run 2x2s battery!
let me know how you like that conversation!
btw, i didn`t know u getting 4x4 SCT?

ohiostatechamp

iTrader: (59)

Lazi, I just bought a nice used one with a lot of hop ups. It will be a few weeks before I get it together. Looking forward to running it.

spu83

iTrader: (2)

Look like its going to be a wet one but you never know.

Chatman128

That's an insane argument. 4S batteries, per ROAR spec, have nominal terminal voltages of 14.8V. If your battery has a nominal terminal voltage of 7.4 volts its a 2S, per ROAR spec. There is no reasonable argument for it being 4S. That would be equivalent to saying that because you have the ability, by selecting apprpriate phases, to connect your house wiring so that you get 220V, therefore every plug in your house is 220V regardless of how it's conected. You are allowed to connect cells in parallel per the spec. The spec says nothing about when you have to make the series or parallel connections. I've often wondered why there seems to be so much friction with ROAR but if this is typical of the way rules are handled, BSRacing is dead on. We really don't need no stanking ROAR.

mapplegate

iTrader: (37)

The TLR lineup likes a tight diff, more so then other manufacturers, and breaking it in is key, I would recommend carbide or ceramic balls as well. The stock balls are garbage. Bfast makes a really nice diff kit and lasts longer also. I have even heard recently a lot of guys are running the kyosho thrust bearing as well.

Mike

SausageAssassin

Thanks to all for all the diff help. I have a few offers from Pak, 2Slow2C, and Dom to help me rebuild my diff, I think I am failing on the break in part. I ordered some BFAST diff and thrust balls so I wont be ready to rebuild until the new diff balls arrive. I am hoping they arrive before this weekend but we will see. Also, my wife is due any day now so there is a slight chance i will not make it to the track this weekend if the baby arrives. If thats the case I will pm the guys that offered to help and hopefully we can find some time that works. I'd like to get this diff rebuilt as soon as possible with supervision so I can learn how to do it properly and rebuild the diffs on all my rc cars while on leave from work.

Tractagator

iTrader: (3)

Congrats Man! Now go get some sleep...