507LikesTamiya M-07 Concept
02-13-2019, 09:45 PM
#796
I believe there's a new tub coming out for the R, as well as carbon reinforced arms.
I have part 54812, which is the tub that comes with the M07R.
Interestingly, the label says carbon reinforced, but the mold says GF-S instead of CF or GF.
........................... I'm not feeling good about this.
I have part 54812, which is the tub that comes with the M07R.
Interestingly, the label says carbon reinforced, but the mold says GF-S instead of CF or GF.
........................... I'm not feeling good about this.
02-13-2019, 09:49 PM
#797
I believe there's a new tub coming out for the R, as well as carbon reinforced arms.
I have part 54812, which is the tub that comes with the M07R.
Interestingly, the label says carbon reinforced, but the mold says GF-S instead of CF or GF.
........................... I'm not feeling good about this.
I have part 54812, which is the tub that comes with the M07R.
Interestingly, the label says carbon reinforced, but the mold says GF-S instead of CF or GF.
........................... I'm not feeling good about this.
02-14-2019, 12:48 AM
#799
If the R comes with 54812 I wont be buying it
03-03-2019, 08:58 AM
#800
I stopped using my M05 (which was dialed in) as soon as the M07 came out. I had about 3 races on the M07 and all were terrible, the back end kept swinging out ...had too much torque steer and couldn't get the car to track straight (it wanted to kind of crab walk down the straights). I actually hated my M07 and as a result stopped racing it all last year. I had not found the M07 to ride like a touring car and to be great right out of the box (like many had said). I've raced in the mini class for at least 5 or 6 years and understand like any class that you have to drive the cars a little different.
So, I got my M07 out again and plan to race this coming year.
I could use a little help.
I race on asphalt, usually medium to high grip. I'll be running the long wheelbase JCW body.
The track is a medium sized track, w a good amount of turns ...usually 1 straight that is about 60' (give or take)
-What diff' oil do you guys recommend?
I have 50k in my car right now. I tried 500k, 250k, and both seemed waaay too thick. But I haven't had much time w/ the 50k in it so not sure if that is a good weight to use?
-What about tires?
The last time I raced our fastest guy ran these:
https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...d=14334#images
-I've set camber, toe-in and droop to stock settings.
-I have the TRF dampers all around, right now I have the yellow springs (I think those are medium) w/ 27wt oil all around
Ultimately I need to get to a track and experiment, yet not sure if i'll have time before the next race when I plan to run my M07. So just looking for a good starting point and/or some tips
thanks,
So, I got my M07 out again and plan to race this coming year.
I could use a little help.
I race on asphalt, usually medium to high grip. I'll be running the long wheelbase JCW body.
The track is a medium sized track, w a good amount of turns ...usually 1 straight that is about 60' (give or take)
-What diff' oil do you guys recommend?
I have 50k in my car right now. I tried 500k, 250k, and both seemed waaay too thick. But I haven't had much time w/ the 50k in it so not sure if that is a good weight to use?
-What about tires?
The last time I raced our fastest guy ran these:
https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...d=14334#images
-I've set camber, toe-in and droop to stock settings.
-I have the TRF dampers all around, right now I have the yellow springs (I think those are medium) w/ 27wt oil all around
Ultimately I need to get to a track and experiment, yet not sure if i'll have time before the next race when I plan to run my M07. So just looking for a good starting point and/or some tips
thanks,
Last edited by eR1c; 03-03-2019 at 09:31 AM.
03-03-2019, 11:46 PM
#801
I would rebuild the car completely if you are getting odd handling like that. Crabbing down the straights is not normal, it really sounds like something mechanical is wrong on the car that you can't see on the bench. For example, I had a small chip out of a diff gear which felt "normal" in my hands, but made the diff lock up on the track.
The metal diff internals are a massive improvement by the way and I would recommend them if you don't already have them. I would also recommend the DCJs as another mechanical improvement, the standard UJs will bind up if you use a lot of steering lock.
None of those diff oils are out of the ordinary, you should be able to test with them to get the right blend of pull out of the corners and predictable steering. May as well start at the 50k.
I have never used the Ride tyres before but if you have seen someone be fast with them already that is a good sign. Normally you run a softer compound on the rear of a Mini.
27.5 weight sounds a little light for the TRF dampers and might feel a little underdamped. Normally you would start with #400 to #500 cst oil in those dampers. The "long" yellow springs are harder than the kit black springs but not necessarily an issue.
The metal diff internals are a massive improvement by the way and I would recommend them if you don't already have them. I would also recommend the DCJs as another mechanical improvement, the standard UJs will bind up if you use a lot of steering lock.
None of those diff oils are out of the ordinary, you should be able to test with them to get the right blend of pull out of the corners and predictable steering. May as well start at the 50k.
I have never used the Ride tyres before but if you have seen someone be fast with them already that is a good sign. Normally you run a softer compound on the rear of a Mini.
27.5 weight sounds a little light for the TRF dampers and might feel a little underdamped. Normally you would start with #400 to #500 cst oil in those dampers. The "long" yellow springs are harder than the kit black springs but not necessarily an issue.
03-04-2019, 07:02 AM
#802
I would rebuild the car completely if you are getting odd handling like that. Crabbing down the straights is not normal, it really sounds like something mechanical is wrong on the car that you can't see on the bench. For example, I had a small chip out of a diff gear which felt "normal" in my hands, but made the diff lock up on the track.
The metal diff internals are a massive improvement by the way and I would recommend them if you don't already have them. I would also recommend the DCJs as another mechanical improvement, the standard UJs will bind up if you use a lot of steering lock.
None of those diff oils are out of the ordinary, you should be able to test with them to get the right blend of pull out of the corners and predictable steering. May as well start at the 50k.
I have never used the Ride tyres before but if you have seen someone be fast with them already that is a good sign. Normally you run a softer compound on the rear of a Mini.
27.5 weight sounds a little light for the TRF dampers and might feel a little underdamped. Normally you would start with #400 to #500 cst oil in those dampers. The "long" yellow springs are harder than the kit black springs but not necessarily an issue.
The metal diff internals are a massive improvement by the way and I would recommend them if you don't already have them. I would also recommend the DCJs as another mechanical improvement, the standard UJs will bind up if you use a lot of steering lock.
None of those diff oils are out of the ordinary, you should be able to test with them to get the right blend of pull out of the corners and predictable steering. May as well start at the 50k.
I have never used the Ride tyres before but if you have seen someone be fast with them already that is a good sign. Normally you run a softer compound on the rear of a Mini.
27.5 weight sounds a little light for the TRF dampers and might feel a little underdamped. Normally you would start with #400 to #500 cst oil in those dampers. The "long" yellow springs are harder than the kit black springs but not necessarily an issue.
Yeah, like you mentioned, I think rebuilding this is in order. Something is definitely off.
I will also try to get to a track for some practice as that will be the best way for me to get this dialed in correctly.
03-05-2019, 03:46 PM
#803
fFYI,
..I just finished rebuilding my M07 back to stock settings (w/ exception of the diff' I kept the 50k oil in it instead of the 100K that the manual calls for).
I tried running it on my driveway (which I used a blower to clean) ...its not a long driveway, but enough for me to tell that the crab walking seems to be gone AND it seems to handle better (yet i'll really know when I bring it to the track). Yet I recall testing my M07 in the driveway previously and it was crab walking and handling weird ...so I think I have got it back to where it should be. Not sure if my settings were just way off? or what? Someone recommended I check my chassis as they had a warped plastic chassis, ..mine seems to be straight. I put it up on the setup station and everything seems good.
..I just finished rebuilding my M07 back to stock settings (w/ exception of the diff' I kept the 50k oil in it instead of the 100K that the manual calls for).
I tried running it on my driveway (which I used a blower to clean) ...its not a long driveway, but enough for me to tell that the crab walking seems to be gone AND it seems to handle better (yet i'll really know when I bring it to the track). Yet I recall testing my M07 in the driveway previously and it was crab walking and handling weird ...so I think I have got it back to where it should be. Not sure if my settings were just way off? or what? Someone recommended I check my chassis as they had a warped plastic chassis, ..mine seems to be straight. I put it up on the setup station and everything seems good.
03-06-2019, 12:28 PM
#805
yeah, I am wondering if I potentially had my rear hubs reversed OR the rear trailing arms (I think the hubs are universal not L / R specific, but can't recall off hand). In any case It seems to be better (thankfully). Something was definitely amiss.
Its been awhile, is 20t pinion the limit for TCS rules for this class? (i know the M07 allows for larger pinions however)
(the clubs I race w/ follow TCS rules)
Its been awhile, is 20t pinion the limit for TCS rules for this class? (i know the M07 allows for larger pinions however)
(the clubs I race w/ follow TCS rules)
03-13-2019, 06:43 AM
#806
Our local expert recently did some back to back testing between the brushed Tamiya sport tuned / Maverick motor and the Hobbywing Justock G2.1 13.5T Sensored Motor (HW30408010) with Hobbywing Justock ESC (HW30112000) combo and eventually settled on brushless with 18t pinion being equitable lap time wise against the brushed with 20t. I say lap time wise as the handling with the 18t makes a up for a small deficit against the brushed with 20t. The rules now provide for both options with suitable pinions.
I ran my M07 with brushed and M03 with brushless last weekend and three seconds apart over a traffic affected five minutes pretty much reinforced the original prognosis. In short, I really enjoy the inexpensive HW combo and am keen to switch the Justock in to the M07.
Fitting the Justock in the M03 was simple but now I am keen to switch it across to the M07, which is less simple if one is avoid butchering the M07 chassis. I do recall some folk doing some minor motor spacing and also re-aligning things to minimise chassis cutting? Some reminders on that would be greatly appreciated :-)
Kind regards
Dave
I ran my M07 with brushed and M03 with brushless last weekend and three seconds apart over a traffic affected five minutes pretty much reinforced the original prognosis. In short, I really enjoy the inexpensive HW combo and am keen to switch the Justock in to the M07.
Fitting the Justock in the M03 was simple but now I am keen to switch it across to the M07, which is less simple if one is avoid butchering the M07 chassis. I do recall some folk doing some minor motor spacing and also re-aligning things to minimise chassis cutting? Some reminders on that would be greatly appreciated :-)
Kind regards
Dave
03-13-2019, 06:56 AM
#807
Post #57 shows that the solder points just squeak in but unknown where the motor also spaced on the scree side, so some info would help thanks :-)
03-19-2019, 01:05 AM
#809
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