867LikesTamiya Euro Truck Class
08-17-2019, 02:27 PM
#946
Tech Apprentice
I use team associated 1m in the front and it does not leak. I wouldn’t run anything lighter. I tried that before and it leaked out and made a complete mess. I run the rear open and handles well. The fastest guys at our track also run open rear. I tried diff putty before and it seems to dry out and sip out in powder so it won’t make a mess but I prefer the oil now because of less maintenance than having to refill putty.
08-17-2019, 02:29 PM
#947
Tech Apprentice
1) After mounting the tires to the wheels, add a coating of glue to the FRONT TIRES ONLY in the area mentioned in this article:
Spec Truck Tire Glue Rule Change | ETRL
2) FILL the FRONT DIFF with this white grease:
Bad Horsie Diff Locking Grease - For all RC open-differential designs
3) Use this grease (shoot for 1/2 to 3/4 full) in the REAR diff:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lucas-Oi...0005/202521504
We have several of these trucks running at Prolevel RC in St. Louis. These simple changes make the eurotrucks drive MUCH better on the black carpet.
Spec Truck Tire Glue Rule Change | ETRL
2) FILL the FRONT DIFF with this white grease:
Bad Horsie Diff Locking Grease - For all RC open-differential designs
3) Use this grease (shoot for 1/2 to 3/4 full) in the REAR diff:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lucas-Oi...0005/202521504
We have several of these trucks running at Prolevel RC in St. Louis. These simple changes make the eurotrucks drive MUCH better on the black carpet.
08-19-2019, 10:54 AM
#949
Tire glueing
How much of the sidewall are you guys glueing on the front and rear wheels for running on crc black carpet? How much of the inside sidewall of the tires as well.
08-19-2019, 10:35 PM
#951
We only glue the outside of the front tires.....nothing on the inside or on the rear tires at all. I always suggest that guys DO NOT glue below the top of the TAMIYA logo. The best working tires at our track typically have glue from the top of the Tamiya logo to the inside edge of the first tread block.
08-21-2019, 09:37 PM
#952
Tech Apprentice
The norm that works well at our track at TQ seems gluing the outside fronts only with the first top thread. I’ve tried different amounts on the sides from an F1’ style in the edge and all the way to the rim... didn’t notice a difference. However prior to tamiya changing the rules on the top thread, the amount on the sides did make a small difference for me. I also then glued the inside fronts and it was way to much loss of traction and the truck understeered to the point of making it worthless. That made the wheels to stiff. I have a sander so it was easy to remove with exacto knife edge while the wheel turning. Stick with the outside front and nothing rear and that should work fine.
08-30-2019, 05:23 AM
#954
Tech Adept
No, all the same as far as the running gear goes.
The two cab-over bodies are the same, besides the livery.
The two cab-over bodies are the same, besides the livery.
08-30-2019, 09:18 AM
#955
...mechanically they are the same, body wise there are 2 body styles, and it has not been proven that either is better in terms of performance. I am still winning w/ the original style cab over body (against a crowd of mostly V2 newer body styles).
09-02-2019, 07:54 PM
#959
Tech Apprentice
You might have a bad ESC that’s happened to one our guys we tried everything we could think of... finally bought a new one and issue fixed immediately.
09-03-2019, 09:04 AM
#960
Quote:
Originally Posted by eR1c
...mechanically they are the same, body wise there are 2 body styles, and it has not been proven that either is better in terms of performance. I am still winning w/ the original style cab over body (against a crowd of mostly V2 newer body styles).
What surface are you on?
Originally Posted by eR1c
...mechanically they are the same, body wise there are 2 body styles, and it has not been proven that either is better in terms of performance. I am still winning w/ the original style cab over body (against a crowd of mostly V2 newer body styles).
What surface are you on?