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Tamiya Euro Truck Class

Old 02-17-2019, 09:48 AM
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Watch what the truck is doing: if it is bouncing or tilting adjust your entry speed. Check the breaks going to set the front to rotate faster with less speed.
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Old 02-17-2019, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by sps3172
Locally, we're hoping these trucks will be a mechanism to cultivate new racers. Our take on this class is that it should be cheap, easy and fun. With respect to running on black carpet, allowing glue on the horizontal surface of the tires (typically the front) is an easy way to get the truck handling well enough that a new driver can start spinning laps.

Fewer and fewer people have the patience, these days, to take up a challenge like this hobby. This class can provide a better Work/Fun ratio for those just taking up the hobby or wishing to pursue it in a more casual manor. We have plenty of other, more competitive, classes for the racer that wishes to be rewarded for the time they invest in setup, etc.

Just a thought...
I agree. I've been racing over 25 years now and i got a euro truck. I could not run ONE lap w/o it traction rolling on black carpet. If i was new to the hobby I would have just thrown in the towel as it was NOT fun. I'm still having traction roll problems but I've played w/ the diffs, gluing and shock position to get it to be a bit better. If you "just have to deal" with constant rolling every lap then it ceases to be fun and it'll never entice people to stay in the hobby.

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Old 02-17-2019, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Hopscotch
Watch what the truck is doing: if it is bouncing or tilting adjust your entry speed. Check the breaks going to set the front to rotate faster with less speed.
With a top heavy truck when you get the front to rotate faster you get traction rolling, that's what I've experienced at least. If you try to carry any speed in they seem to traction roll it seems. If you look at i wrong it seems to traction roll i seems... Sadly, I feel this way. Hasn't been fun thus far. I know when I ran mini we used to also glue the first outside front tread to help w/ issues like this. They were so low/heavy though that rolling wasn't really the issue.

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Old 02-18-2019, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by TT_Vert
I agree. I've been racing over 25 years now and i got a euro truck. I could not run ONE lap w/o it traction rolling on black carpet. If i was new to the hobby I would have just thrown in the towel as it was NOT fun. I'm still having traction roll problems but I've played w/ the diffs, gluing and shock position to get it to be a bit better. If you "just have to deal" with constant rolling every lap then it ceases to be fun and it'll never entice people to stay in the hobby.

Dave
People at the track I run (black carpet) have these trucks running within a .5 of the vta class times. There's a lot of skill that goes on to get around a track smooth with a Euro truck but obviously your going to fast. You need to turn your rate way down and carry speed. Just like vta it's all about momentum. If it traction rolls your entry speed is to hot and if it hops then your accelerating to hard mid turn. Just find the marks and hit them.
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Old 02-18-2019, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tc4junk
People at the track I run (black carpet) have these trucks running within a .5 of the vta class times. There's a lot of skill that goes on to get around a track smooth with a Euro truck but obviously your going to fast. You need to turn your rate way down and carry speed. Just like vta it's all about momentum. If it traction rolls your entry speed is to hot and if it hops then your accelerating to hard mid turn. Just find the marks and hit them.
Having run VTA competitively for MANY years all things being equal i don't buy that but that's a debate i'd rather not get into. I raced at a very high level for many years and I'm very in tune w/ suspension geometry, physics, driving lines/apexs, carrying speed through corners (many years of VTA, slash and mini racing embedded that into my driving style). This thing is HIGHLY unpredictable, at least for me. I have gotten better with driving it on two wheels but I don't see a new driver wanting to deal w/ that and I don't blame them. It's highly frustrating. The best I've gotten it so far was by opening up both diffs and scrubbing every ounce of sauce off the tires that it picks up but about 3 minutes in the tires have picked up so much sauce that you cannot even attempt to carry speed into a turn, not even a sweeper. I've had my EPA as low as 30% but then unless I transfer all weight to the outside tire quickly it won't even turn. On a slow speed infield corner that's not even possible. I actually used to glue the first tread running mini and they (Asphalt assault) rule makers never said a thing. I was not the only one doing it, in fact I think we all were.

My next plan of action is actually to glue the first front outside tread row on these And then start tightening up the diffs to my driving style. As this thing stands now it's not fun to drive and that's all that matters to me. I've tried EVERYTHING else to no avail. I suppose I could just turn down throttle EPA and then I'd never had to worry about it but seriously I could not seem to find any acceptable line that I felt comfortable running. That chassis is a blast w/o that crappy top heavy body on it though!!

Dave
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:44 AM
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started euro truck racing and love it, 1st 4 heats I raced with truck it was great , 1st place contender if I could keep my run clean, yes it was tippy and bouncey but very driveable and fast . then out of nowhere in the 5th heat I ran it started to hook hard in left turns, basically as soon as I turn the wheel left under power the rear end of the truck spins 180 degree instantly . At first I thought it was the wheels and tires( one rear wheel was broken when I took it off the track ) so I swapped out all 4 for new ones,, same problem , checked all arms, dog bones , all are perfect no signs of breaks, cracks, bends or twists, and all spin, or move freely with no binding what so ever , Ive pretty much completely torn down and rebuilt the entire chassis , have found no problems but the truck is undriveable . there were 14 of these things at the race I was at this past weekend and mine was the only one with this problem , I know there has to be something I am missing but I am at a total loss as to what it is . Any idea ?
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Piz
started euro truck racing and love it, 1st 4 heats I raced with truck it was great , 1st place contender if I could keep my run clean, yes it was tippy and bouncey but very driveable and fast . then out of nowhere in the 5th heat I ran it started to hook hard in left turns, basically as soon as I turn the wheel left under power the rear end of the truck spins 180 degree instantly . At first I thought it was the wheels and tires( one rear wheel was broken when I took it off the track ) so I swapped out all 4 for new ones,, same problem , checked all arms, dog bones , all are perfect no signs of breaks, cracks, bends or twists, and all spin, or move freely with no binding what so ever , Ive pretty much completely torn down and rebuilt the entire chassis , have found no problems but the truck is undriveable . there were 14 of these things at the race I was at this past weekend and mine was the only one with this problem , I know there has to be something I am missing but I am at a total loss as to what it is . Any idea ?
One thing I noticed is that the servo arm will bind one way (I want to say right) unless the linkage is spaced properly. I 3D printing a spacer of the exact depth I needed after noticing that the travel was different L to R. Not that that would crop up out of nowhere but something to at least check. I have a similar issue where one way it'll traction roll with ease and the other I really need to push it to do so. Sort of like a servo EPA issue which is was not. I still have that issue on mine but it can't hurt for you to check EPA (Servo travel) and make sure all is equal. Perhaps you used the wrong servo arm and it jumped a tooth? If you have no binding anywhere in suspension or driveline it has to be something like that. Unless you have a crack where the arm mounts to the gearbox/chassis.

Dave
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Old 02-19-2019, 07:00 AM
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Something for our local kids class.





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Old 02-19-2019, 08:47 AM
  #804  
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Originally Posted by Piz
started euro truck racing and love it, 1st 4 heats I raced with truck it was great , 1st place contender if I could keep my run clean, yes it was tippy and bouncey but very driveable and fast . then out of nowhere in the 5th heat I ran it started to hook hard in left turns, basically as soon as I turn the wheel left under power the rear end of the truck spins 180 degree instantly . At first I thought it was the wheels and tires( one rear wheel was broken when I took it off the track ) so I swapped out all 4 for new ones,, same problem , checked all arms, dog bones , all are perfect no signs of breaks, cracks, bends or twists, and all spin, or move freely with no binding what so ever , Ive pretty much completely torn down and rebuilt the entire chassis , have found no problems but the truck is undriveable . there were 14 of these things at the race I was at this past weekend and mine was the only one with this problem , I know there has to be something I am missing but I am at a total loss as to what it is . Any idea ?
I've seen 2 things cause the 'tweaked' behavior you describe. One was a broken rear wheel, but you swapped those already. The second was a missing 'B12' shock clip. I'm not sure how one knocks this part off, but I've seen it happen several times and always, there was a mystery handling problem that was solved with the replacement of this clip.
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by sps3172
I've seen 2 things cause the 'tweaked' behavior you describe. One was a broken rear wheel, but you swapped those already. The second was a missing 'B12' shock clip. I'm not sure how one knocks this part off, but I've seen it happen several times and always, there was a mystery handling problem that was solved with the replacement of this clip.
I pulled off all the shocks and checked them for binding issues , but did not look at them closely , I will take another look ., thanks
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by TT_Vert
One thing I noticed is that the servo arm will bind one way (I want to say right) unless the linkage is spaced properly. I 3D printing a spacer of the exact depth I needed after noticing that the travel was different L to R. Not that that would crop up out of nowhere but something to at least check. I have a similar issue where one way it'll traction roll with ease and the other I really need to push it to do so. Sort of like a servo EPA issue which is was not. I still have that issue on mine but it can't hurt for you to check EPA (Servo travel) and make sure all is equal. Perhaps you used the wrong servo arm and it jumped a tooth? If you have no binding anywhere in suspension or driveline it has to be something like that. Unless you have a crack where the arm mounts to the gearbox/chassis.

Dave
actually tried a new servo , and saver but didnt make a difference , I started messing with exp and speed in the radio setting but didnt go to far with it
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Old 02-19-2019, 02:35 PM
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Piz, were you at the memorial race at Access Hobbies?
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Old 02-19-2019, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TT_Vert
Having run VTA competitively for MANY years all things being equal i don't buy that but that's a debate i'd rather not get into. I raced at a very high level for many years and I'm very in tune w/ suspension geometry, physics, driving lines/apexs, carrying speed through corners (many years of VTA, slash and mini racing embedded that into my driving style). This thing is HIGHLY unpredictable, at least for me. I have gotten better with driving it on two wheels but I don't see a new driver wanting to deal w/ that and I don't blame them. It's highly frustrating. The best I've gotten it so far was by opening up both diffs and scrubbing every ounce of sauce off the tires that it picks up but about 3 minutes in the tires have picked up so much sauce that you cannot even attempt to carry speed into a turn, not even a sweeper. I've had my EPA as low as 30% but then unless I transfer all weight to the outside tire quickly it won't even turn. On a slow speed infield corner that's not even possible. I actually used to glue the first tread running mini and they (Asphalt assault) rule makers never said a thing. I was not the only one doing it, in fact I think we all were.

My next plan of action is actually to glue the first front outside tread row on these And then start tightening up the diffs to my driving style. As this thing stands now it's not fun to drive and that's all that matters to me. I've tried EVERYTHING else to no avail. I suppose I could just turn down throttle EPA and then I'd never had to worry about it but seriously I could not seem to find any acceptable line that I felt comfortable running. That chassis is a blast w/o that crappy top heavy body on it though!!

Dave
Sorry to hear you are still having a hard time with it. I'm glad you opened the diffs up like we talked way back. Cleaning the tires well is important for Box stock truck. Keeping the glue up to par on the tires as well. Many of us can get them to go quick like mentioned above with the VTA comment, driving style has to be different versus our traditional race kits. Keep at and you will get the hang of it
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:35 PM
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My truck handles great with both bodies I have 20million in the front diff and 10k in the rear front side walls glue all the way up. But not on the tread and I've done a few other things that are all with in the tamiya rules I haven't modified anything and I haven't added any weight I did put some of the kit grease that comes in the tube on the shock shafts to make dampening more consistent other then that it's box stock and is fast with no tipping but I don't sauce the tires and only clean them when it starts to get bouncy and I take it out and run it in the parking lot to get the build up off. Truck drives good. Hope that helps
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Old 02-20-2019, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly


i saw the Bittydesign Facebook post for it. Euro truck class probably never been the same.

Truck does look good.
That looks awesome!
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