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Originally Posted by rcdreamer
(Post 14693812)
Hmm, I'm sitting on the fence wondering if the changes are worth the buy as I have a 3 month old 16 thats seen 12 packs only. Apart from what I can read above, r.e. the battery stops which is not very clever from a suppliers point of view, somewhat sloppy being Xray. The subtle yet very focused flex change is it worth getting. Realistically speaking, is it equally as quick as the 16, back to back testing vs the 16??. Does it address some of the 16's issues albeit minimal?.
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Originally Posted by HB-forever
(Post 14693797)
I personally think this car has been speeded through production so it was ready for carpet and iic races. In the manual they still want you to use the plastic nut as battery stop. That tells me that they (team/hudy) didn't builda production car before shipping out. Looks more and more like the quality is dropping and just a money factory. Not the quality as before.
What they need now is to make a battery stop and ship out for free to all who has bought this car incl me. But i think it will be a part you can buy for 5-8 euros Just my opinion , sorry if it's a little negative The plastic nuts work fine, and the manual offers the optional part of the servo mount w/spacers as you see in the photos above, which solves the problem and works well. I don't think the quality of xray kits is dropping in the slightest. In fact, there are more premium parts in this kit than any years prior. My new '17 comes with more aluminum shims than before, and also comes with graphite arms as a standard part of the kit. Additionally, the kit is now available with an aluminum chassis out of the box. That's an upgrade that we would normally have to spend $100 on, and swap out the included carbon chassis, only to have it sit in our hauler bag. This new kit has saved me $100, and I haven't even built it yet. Just my opinion, but I think xray kits are improving every year, even if the margin of improvement may not be to your liking. |
The holes for the plastic nuts are no longer there. Kit builds nicer than ever otherwise.
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Originally Posted by wkderf
(Post 14693834)
The battery backstop methods on the '17 T4 is exactly the same in the manual as the 16 and 15.
The plastic nuts work fine, and the manual offers the optional part of the servo mount w/spacers as you see in the photos above, which solves the problem and works well. I don't think the quality of xray kits is dropping in the slightest. In fact, there are more premium parts in this kit than any years prior. My new '17 comes with more aluminum shims than before, and also comes with graphite arms as a standard part of the kit. Additionally, the kit is now available with an aluminum chassis out of the box. That's an upgrade that we would normally have to spend $100 on, and swap out the included carbon chassis, only to have it sit in our hauler bag. This new kit has saved me $100, and I haven't even built it yet. Just my opinion, but I think xray kits are improving every year, even if the margin of improvement may not be to your liking. Sorry , but Yes the nut can not support the battery. In europe it comes with the carbon chassis , and it has not the holes for the battery stop. And if you use the optional stop , it make you can not use the fiber bar. |
Originally Posted by Airwave
(Post 14693460)
Yeah but a glued CF piece like that too...
Does anyone know off hand how far inwards the servo mount has moved. |
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Same story with the aluminum chassis. All it needs is one additional hole in front of the motor cutout on the battery side. The stop in the servo mount works fine for the other side.
It seems like an odd omission. The manual mentions how battery position can have a great impact on handling and then doesn't give you a way to keep it in position. Otherwise, it's nice to be back in orange after a few trips around the world. With very limited time to dedicate to RC, I really value the simplicity and durability. |
Originally Posted by Skiddins
(Post 14693127)
All but one of the holes in the motor flex plate are threaded.
Problem with that idea is that if the lipo touches it, either constantly or during a corner it will effect the flex, unless you have it entirely screwed down. Yeah, not ideal. I think a good mitigation strategy would be to use the lower hole of the servo post or use something similar with a hole as low as possible (come to think of it, the lower servo hole is as low as possible) where to put the lateral screw with the spacer. Nah, my strategy is still better. Tape all around. |
Finally finished mine last night.
The front belt appears to rub against the side of the servo mount which is a bit concerting. Not impressed with the lack of battery stops either. We shouldn't have to mod it to keep the battery in place. Other than that it went together really well. Compared to my old car (TRF419) it's a lot 'tighter'. Almost no slop anywhere. Looking forward to giving it a run out tomorrow. |
Originally Posted by Skiddins
(Post 14693941)
Possibly, but nowhere near as much as something sticking sideways that's attached to the motor mount etc.
Does anyone know off hand how far inwards the servo mount has moved. |
Here is a solution on the battery backstop issue:
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...p%20Option.jpg using a servo mount, along with a washer, spacer, and screw, solves the issue. The servo mount is screwed to the motor mount using the screw that passes through the chassis, and is normally used with a nut on the topside of the motor mount. picture and explanation courtesy of Bryan at RC America. In regards to sponsored & pro drivers running the '17, he added that "It sounds like some are running with only the screw & spacer off the servo mount, and with that and the tape securing the battery, they are comfortable with the setup." |
question for you guys regarding the shock mounts:
the top & bottom ball joints each have one side that is a regular finish, and one side with a shiny finish. The manual is VERY specific about which side should be facing out for the top and bottom of the shock. The problem I'm having is that when installing the shocks in the recommended position with the shiny side facing out on the bottom of the shock, the ball is VERY tight. when installed shiny side in, the ball is loose. I'm sure this is intended, but the shock ball seems WAAy too stiff when installed in the manual recommended way. is there a way to loosen these mounts up? or should i just mount both the top and bottom of the shock with the shiny side face in? |
Originally Posted by wkderf
(Post 14694921)
question for you guys regarding the shock mounts:
the top & bottom ball joints each have one side that is a regular finish, and one side with a shiny finish. The manual is VERY specific about which side should be facing out for the top and bottom of the shock. The problem I'm having is that when installing the shocks in the recommended position with the shiny side facing out on the bottom of the shock, the ball is VERY tight. when installed shiny side in, the ball is loose. I'm sure this is intended, but the shock ball seems WAAy too stiff when installed in the manual recommended way. is there a way to loosen these mounts up? or should i just mount both the top and bottom of the shock with the shiny side face in? |
Originally Posted by B00t13g
(Post 14694999)
You should be inserting the ball into the shiny side of the ball cup in every position on the car.
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Originally Posted by wkderf
(Post 14695008)
Are you sure? The '17 manual specifically instructs you to insert the ball into the regular finish side for the bottom of the shocks.
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