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Can anyone tell me if the T4'17 chassis will fit the '16 version?
Will the '16 servo mount still fit etc? I owe the person I selling my '16 to a new chassis. Just seeing it it's worth getting him the latest chassis instead of a direct replacement (don't have my '17 yet so can't check myself) Any other 'stickies' that might prevent this? Thanks |
looking in detail at the images of the new chassis, it doesn't seem so.
the whole servo arrangement moves over plus the posts move back 1mm - the lack of lugs should not stop this fitting. The new motor mount is really just shaved bulkheads and a new mount tongue. again, mounting holes the same, new one just has a few extras. i'll find out in a few days myself. |
Originally Posted by niznai
(Post 14690590)
Say what?!
Flex is impacted by the chassis width. Cutting those slots basically takes anything from the slot inner end out of the flex equation. You can still use tape without slots. I do. I just found it strange they go to the trouble of milling the motor cut out on the opposite side, but leave the battery slots as they are. "All new optimised fully symmetrical carbon fibre chassis with brand new revolutionary tweak-free battery emplacement system (TFBES)." |
Originally Posted by uvxt
(Post 14690622)
They'll use it to justify the T4 '18 and the associated price hike.
"All new optimised fully symmetrical carbon fibre chassis with brand new revolutionary tweak-free battery emplacement system (TFBES)." |
Originally Posted by wkderf
(Post 14690470)
anyone know who has these in stock in the US?
Team EAM Online |
Started my build last night, hoping to finish tonight.
Seems to be going together really well. I've not had an Xray before and things seem to fit together that little bit better, eg: I've not needed to use any additional shims yet. I wasn't entirely sure where the diff outer ring went. It says under the gasket on the diff top but it doesn't say if it should be under or over the lip. Mine was quite curly and no matter how much I tried to flatten it, it wouldn't stay flat. I ended up putting it over the lip of the main diff half as it stays there far easier and should have the same effect. Shocks, bumper, electronics and a few misc things left. Shouldn't take too long. |
Originally Posted by daveaustin5
(Post 14691773)
Started my build last night, hoping to finish tonight.
Seems to be going together really well. I've not had an Xray before and things seem to fit together that little bit better, eg: I've not needed to use any additional shims yet. I wasn't entirely sure where the diff outer ring went. It says under the gasket on the diff top but it doesn't say if it should be under or over the lip. Mine was quite curly and no matter how much I tried to flatten it, it wouldn't stay flat. I ended up putting it over the lip of the main diff half as it stays there far easier and should have the same effect. Shocks, bumper, electronics and a few misc things left. Shouldn't take too long. |
Originally Posted by Set
(Post 14691789)
if you mean the diff big O-ring, you don't need to use it, the diff doesn't leak without it, no point in using it.
Thanks. |
Originally Posted by daveaustin5
(Post 14691792)
That's the one.
Thanks. Easier to couple up than what the manual said But note that it has to be changed to new one every time u refill/rebuild the diff - and I really don't use it after |
Wordof advice to aboveon the diffs: xray recommends weighing the fluid going in. Do it. You overdill it, and it will leak.
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Originally Posted by Boostinswifty38
(Post 14691890)
Wordof advice to aboveon the diffs: xray recommends weighing the fluid going in. Do it. You overdill it, and it will leak.
wut? |
Originally Posted by wkderf
(Post 14692134)
wut?
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Sorry, typing quickly via phone isnt easy.
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Don't understand why they've bothered with the lugs on the new servo mount.
They don't fit tightly into their holes at all, it's only tight once the screws are fitted. |
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