slcf1

iTrader: (8)

The black can? Or the TZ?

Either one is a great motor. The Black Sport-tuned can isn't anywhere near as quick as the TZ but a great series motor if you want an even playing field.

The TZ is a great rebuildable motor. It does seem to fall off if it gets too hot... maybe over 140º. We've used both and like them all. Silver can is a bomber motor too.

On a open track like most r/c tracks you'll be dissapointed with the silver. Black is better but the TZ would be awesome.

Sorry if this doesn't answer your question.

alang

I did not know that the black can was a 23T. I thought it was the TZ only. Thanks for the info on that. Do you happen to know how much these motors cost?

Birky

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty sure the black can is a 23T with 0 degrees timing.

dragracer72nova

iTrader: (114)

Hello,
What are you guys running for gearing on a indoor carpet track?
IS this chassis going to be run in the TCS series next seeing the F201 dumped this year?
Thank you for the help
Dave

slcf1

iTrader: (8)

Yeah... I'd dump the F201 in stock form too if I were Tamiya. It's a shame because we have 17 racers who all own the F201 but would never bolt up the stock stuff just to run 5 minute races across the country. We've engineered it into a great car capable of beating just about anything on track.

I ran the F103 with a 4.0 ratio on a tight carpet track with the black can and I think I could of gone a little higher since the black can has more grunt than the silver.. or so it seemed.

Philip Henzog

Hi , I have been practicing on sundays at trackside (Milwaukee Wis)and the best gear ratio according to consistant lap times is 70 spur and 16 pinion.4.375. Ive been running the silver can with this ratio seems very good.Ive been using take off 27s for tires.Last sunday I tryed a Monster stock geared at 5.0 ,70 spur 14 pinion and lord all mighty this car was nucular on the straights but a real handful in the corners even using a current limiter speed control.I still would like to know what causes the inside front wheel to lift and how to cure it.

over gear

iTrader: (18)

just got back from the Tamiya track... my car donuts when i exit corners... i have to slowly patiently wait for the car to roll straight before i can pull throttle. what's wrong? i have stock setup and RP30 tires....

Philip Henzog

Hi, I raced my f103gt all summer long outside on unprepaired parkinglots and had no problum spinning out with the stock setup unless I didnt use the # 2 spacer dropping the rear end down on the axel, check the instructions for instlation.other than that you may have the rear t plate screw to tight.I run the tplate loose outside where grip is needed,also what body are you running?. and check that your tires are not comming unglued hope this helps

Burlap

iTrader: (6)

Cool. I might change the car back to the o-ring setup. The pivot ball seems to be a bit of a waste.

rayman

saw this at rcmart. anyone have this conversion to have the body post moved to the rear like a standard tc car?
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...d28aff653327c6

maybe this fits the standard kit and you dont need to buy this full conversion
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...d28aff653327c6

rcdougie

iTrader: (4)

Hi all. The F103gt is sparking my interest and I have a few quesitons maybe some of you can answer.

1. How do you adjust front ride height?
2. Would it be a good idea to maybe run a harder tire in the front and softer in the back? For instance a Take Off 27 in the front and a Take off 22 in the rear?

Philip Henzog

Hi,The f103 from my experiance this year needs radically different setups for outside (unprepaired asfault) and inside (carpet). I ran the car all spring while still cold out and through summer using takeoff 27s all around ,kit midum springs loose t plate and loose dampner disks to get maximum rear end grip. We ran fomular bodys one week touring cars the next and the f103 responded by handling great outside.Inside I have struggled however untill now.last week I found a very good setup easy to drive and fastest so far for carpet.use tamiya diff grease on dampner disks and tighten threaded nut on dampner post all the way tight. tighten both screws on the tplate all the way tight and then back out the o ring screw on the back of tplate 3/4 of a turn. Use the plastic coil spring shock that comes with the kit and the plastic dampner disks that came with the kit. I have the hopups but to me this felt better and netted more consistant lap times.put front spacers on top of steering arms for more ride height.Now to complete the setiup, Use tamiya As all the way around but use tamiyas black inserts in front and tamiya blue inserts in back.for springs use associated .022 springs.these really preload the front end but feel great on carpet.I found the 2005 nsx with the tamiya carbon looking option wing to work best so far. use 90 to 100 duel rate for steering and this is VERY important DO NOT sauce more than 1/2 of the front tires. This is very important!!!!!With this setup no front wheel lifting rear end stays planted and you can hammer the gas on around corners.The car does best with the silver can for cosistant lap times you and run the stock monster motor and get a few faster laps but over all the silver can will win the race in over all times .

secretsg

iTrader: (7)

Only the European version of the blackcan motor is 23T. US/Japan is a 27T with advanced timing.

rayman

is this a fact? Then I could get one and run a 23turn version that would be cheating.

Marty Peterson

iTrader: (3)

Im With ya Ed Delgado!