110LikesTamiya Direct Drive Touring Car
09-18-2006, 10:56 PM
#512
Tech Master
Originally Posted by MrBlack
My contacts at Tamiya say it should be ablout 3 weeks before they get in the clear bodies for the Courage.
Wedges are discouraged because many feel that the protoform wedge bodies are part of the reason 1:10 pan car died as the cars looked silly to newcomers and at the same time TC cars where being released and they looked much more scale which attracted many newcomers I knoe that is part of the reason I bought an Tamiya TC rather then a Toy car for half the price when I started as I wanted the scale look. ( also the reason i never got into off-road or as I like to call it "space buggy racing"
This along with the speed that was aparently too fast for many, drove current drivers away and intimidated potential new drivers.
I THink these same trends are killing TC now as many people again are looking for other options besides TC as they are too fast, too expensive , and look embarassing. (doorstops)
But I saw the NASCAR car of tomorrow and it looks just like a Mazda 6 Protoform body so who knows maybe we will see people excited about TC but instead of a Calsonic or Advan Scheme they will run a big 24 on the door and a Dupont logo on the hood and complain about right turns lol!
Wedges are discouraged because many feel that the protoform wedge bodies are part of the reason 1:10 pan car died as the cars looked silly to newcomers and at the same time TC cars where being released and they looked much more scale which attracted many newcomers I knoe that is part of the reason I bought an Tamiya TC rather then a Toy car for half the price when I started as I wanted the scale look. ( also the reason i never got into off-road or as I like to call it "space buggy racing"
This along with the speed that was aparently too fast for many, drove current drivers away and intimidated potential new drivers.
I THink these same trends are killing TC now as many people again are looking for other options besides TC as they are too fast, too expensive , and look embarassing. (doorstops)
But I saw the NASCAR car of tomorrow and it looks just like a Mazda 6 Protoform body so who knows maybe we will see people excited about TC but instead of a Calsonic or Advan Scheme they will run a big 24 on the door and a Dupont logo on the hood and complain about right turns lol!
I see .... Thanks for the update...My track buddies,we don't use them either...Would like to try though.Just to see what's the handling like...
09-19-2006, 12:34 AM
#513
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Burlap
Woohoo, got my 3Racing horizontal servo holder, new servo, more spring washers for the diff and some other bits for the F103GT today. Time to rebuild some of the F103GT tonight for a run tomorrow night.
09-19-2006, 03:08 PM
#515
Originally Posted by MrBlack
This further proves part of my theory, that what was one of the best things about TC was the realistic looking cars. THis is now all but done now with the current "NASCAR car of tomorrow" looking body shells. The cars get less realistic > less people find them intresting > less new drivers to replace the one's that move on > TC dies. Yes it is really that simple.
The insane cost of an aluminum/graphite wonder bot along with all the gadgets to get your Batteriesnd motors just right do not help either.
The insane cost of an aluminum/graphite wonder bot along with all the gadgets to get your Batteriesnd motors just right do not help either.
The current costs are killing me as well. You spend $100 for power supply, $60 per battery, $150 charger, $50-$75 discharge, $100 motor lathe, $100 motor dyno, $50 per motor and all of this is before you buy the $400 car that comes with NOTHING to make it run. You are talking about putting the same amount of money into r/c for a season that it takes to go karting.
For example, I had a short take me out this Saturday at Tamiya and it blew my servo, esc, and battery. In 5 min, it was a $400 loss.
I am starting to think of running the F103s and TamTech frogs from now on. The fun is much higher and costs lower.
09-19-2006, 03:27 PM
#516
MOMO
Originally Posted by MrBlack
But I saw the NASCAR car of tomorrow and it looks just like a Mazda 6 Protoform body so who knows maybe we will see people excited about TC but instead of a Calsonic or Advan Scheme they will run a big 24 on the door and a Dupont logo on the hood and complain about right turns lol!
09-20-2006, 03:07 PM
#517
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by CarKing
I woul hav to agree with that statement as well. I got into TC along with Tamiya back in th days of the TA02 because of the look of the cars. Now, Protoform releases all of these bodies that look the same to me just with different stickers. I prefer a Tamiya Mobil Lexus, Arta NSX, or F430 over protoform any day.
The current costs are killing me as well. You spend $100 for power supply, $60 per battery, $150 charger, $50-$75 discharge, $100 motor lathe, $100 motor dyno, $50 per motor and all of this is before you buy the $400 car that comes with NOTHING to make it run. You are talking about putting the same amount of money into r/c for a season that it takes to go karting.
For example, I had a short take me out this Saturday at Tamiya and it blew my servo, esc, and battery. In 5 min, it was a $400 loss.
I am starting to think of running the F103s and TamTech frogs from now on. The fun is much higher and costs lower.
The current costs are killing me as well. You spend $100 for power supply, $60 per battery, $150 charger, $50-$75 discharge, $100 motor lathe, $100 motor dyno, $50 per motor and all of this is before you buy the $400 car that comes with NOTHING to make it run. You are talking about putting the same amount of money into r/c for a season that it takes to go karting.
For example, I had a short take me out this Saturday at Tamiya and it blew my servo, esc, and battery. In 5 min, it was a $400 loss.
I am starting to think of running the F103s and TamTech frogs from now on. The fun is much higher and costs lower.
I agree with the F103 being alot of fun to drive. I raced F1 cars when they were really popular. It was some of the funest racing I ever did. Here in Nor-Cal we are talking about making a spec racing class for this car. There are a couple of points were people can't decide what to run on the car. The issues are what motor to run and if we are going to use foam or rubber tires. I think it was Mr.Black who posted how the car worked with Sorex 36R tires and he said the car worked good. If anyone tries any motor/tire combinations, please post how the car worked with each.
09-20-2006, 03:39 PM
#518
The thing I always wanted to see (as you can read a few pages back) was for a series where you would use the F103GT, the HPI old Muscle Car shells, wheels, and tires for a Trans-Am series.
09-20-2006, 03:53 PM
#519
I too ran the ol' F103 and agree with the fun factor. 
I ran my Courage kit on a drying track for about 15 min... (no battery change needed
)
Everything was stock so I could get a baseline except:
I ran black o-rings instead of springs in the front.
A TRF shock, 3 hole with 35wt. I think? Don't remember...
and the upgraded white dampner plates dry.. no lube.
540 can with the kit gears. Oh, and I didn't have the upper plate screwed down in the front for more flex. Will test with it tightened down next time.
1st run tires were from the Jurassic period Kawada LS240 with Losi hard inserts (start laughing now
). Old but still new in the bag until I glued them up.
2nd run Pit Shimizu 20R pre-glued tires.
The feeling was that the car had a gentle push on throttle and increased steering as the car slowed down. Super easy to drive on the dry parts of the track. The car had plenty of traction in the really wet parts but struggled in the drying sections. Off camber turns in the wet made it easy to get the car spun around but that was to be expected. I ran against another GT with foams 40/35 I think for front and rear. I had the better of the foamed GT most of the track except under braking in the wet at the end of the straight (140'). The rubber tires definitely had an advantage but I really think it was the downforce and weight of the Courage body against a lotus Elise on foams and Lipo! I forgot, he's probably 4oz. lighter with Lipo. I probably could get the power down just because of weight... hmmm
Fun to drive... and I emphasize "driving" and not mashing the throttle.
We'll test the "quiet" cars again on the 30th add a 23T single with a low-downforce body.
I ran my Courage kit on a drying track for about 15 min... (no battery change needed
)Everything was stock so I could get a baseline except:
I ran black o-rings instead of springs in the front.
A TRF shock, 3 hole with 35wt. I think? Don't remember...
and the upgraded white dampner plates dry.. no lube.
540 can with the kit gears. Oh, and I didn't have the upper plate screwed down in the front for more flex. Will test with it tightened down next time.
1st run tires were from the Jurassic period Kawada LS240 with Losi hard inserts (start laughing now
). Old but still new in the bag until I glued them up.2nd run Pit Shimizu 20R pre-glued tires.
The feeling was that the car had a gentle push on throttle and increased steering as the car slowed down. Super easy to drive on the dry parts of the track. The car had plenty of traction in the really wet parts but struggled in the drying sections. Off camber turns in the wet made it easy to get the car spun around but that was to be expected. I ran against another GT with foams 40/35 I think for front and rear. I had the better of the foamed GT most of the track except under braking in the wet at the end of the straight (140'). The rubber tires definitely had an advantage but I really think it was the downforce and weight of the Courage body against a lotus Elise on foams and Lipo! I forgot, he's probably 4oz. lighter with Lipo. I probably could get the power down just because of weight... hmmm
Fun to drive... and I emphasize "driving" and not mashing the throttle.
We'll test the "quiet" cars again on the 30th add a 23T single with a low-downforce body.
09-20-2006, 04:08 PM
#520
I was running my F103GT last night, with crappy old 300M shell and foams all round (26mm front, 30mm rear) and notice that coming out of right hand corners that the car was more happy to spin out, you have to be very careful with the throttle, whereas with left hand corners you could be more aggressive.
I reduced the amount pressure on the friction pads, which helped a little bit. I am running the Anti Wear grease between the pads, and I think it might be too sticky. Could this be the reason behind the strange behaviour out of right hand corners? The diff is very free, no binding or stiffness.
I reduced the amount pressure on the friction pads, which helped a little bit. I am running the Anti Wear grease between the pads, and I think it might be too sticky. Could this be the reason behind the strange behaviour out of right hand corners? The diff is very free, no binding or stiffness.
09-21-2006, 04:11 AM
#521
Tech Regular
Are your front arms bent? Mine gives me weird problems with the top one is bent from crashes. Are you using the stock O-Ring or the Ball type T plate mount?
09-21-2006, 05:02 PM
#522
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Burlap
I was running my F103GT last night, with crappy old 300M shell and foams all round (26mm front, 30mm rear) and notice that coming out of right hand corners that the car was more happy to spin out, you have to be very careful with the throttle, whereas with left hand corners you could be more aggressive.
I reduced the amount pressure on the friction pads, which helped a little bit. I am running the Anti Wear grease between the pads, and I think it might be too sticky. Could this be the reason behind the strange behaviour out of right hand corners? The diff is very free, no binding or stiffness.
I reduced the amount pressure on the friction pads, which helped a little bit. I am running the Anti Wear grease between the pads, and I think it might be too sticky. Could this be the reason behind the strange behaviour out of right hand corners? The diff is very free, no binding or stiffness.
09-21-2006, 08:00 PM
#523
My local club is starting up a 103GT spec class and was wondering what sort of rules we should use
We were thinking V8 supercar bodies and foam tyres, but are after input as to what other people are running and how they find the cars before we commit to this class.
All help is appreciated.
Thanks
Ben
ACTMCRC
We were thinking V8 supercar bodies and foam tyres, but are after input as to what other people are running and how they find the cars before we commit to this class.
All help is appreciated.
Thanks
Ben
ACTMCRC
09-21-2006, 09:24 PM
#524
Personally I would look to rules like MrBlack is running. Make there 23T motors, a spec tire like the 36, and some high downforce bodyset.
09-22-2006, 02:21 PM
#525
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by CarKing
Personally I would look to rules like MrBlack is running. Make there 23T motors, a spec tire like the 36, and some high downforce bodyset.
The body sets I am trying to push for are racing is the Courage bodies once the clear ones come out. Using the Sorex 36R as a spec tire seems like a good idea also.