Tamiya TB-Evolution III
08-13-2003, 12:52 AM
#3257
I will race in Stock with 21T motors. Do the 1 way, diff gears need to be changed in Stock racing too or is the problem present in Modified racing only?
08-13-2003, 01:04 AM
#3258
Originally posted by Geetoo
Yes its thesame as the TA04's. Although what comes with the TB are carbon reinforced which has more strength compared to the 04's. Notacibly the arms hardly break that only hinge pins and suspension blocks are most of the time damaged on a hard crash.
Yes its thesame as the TA04's. Although what comes with the TB are carbon reinforced which has more strength compared to the 04's. Notacibly the arms hardly break that only hinge pins and suspension blocks are most of the time damaged on a hard crash.
I have not broken one myself, but when I lent my hard-arm'd
TA04PRO to a friend, he did manage to smack something hard
enough to snap a front arm. (Yes, hinge pin got bent too).
If ya gotta hit something, hit it front on & let the bumper
take the impact. Hitting it offset concentrates the force onto
bits not meant to take the hit, with expensive consequences.
08-13-2003, 07:06 AM
#3259
What is the minimum drive frequency possible on the GT7? If you set it on 1 KHz, will it damage a stock motor?
I read that the smaller the drive frequency the more punch you have, is it true?
I read that the smaller the drive frequency the more punch you have, is it true?
08-13-2003, 07:12 AM
#3260
the evo arms are tough but in cold conditions the overly hard arms may be more prone to cracking due to the cold. try standard arms in cold weather.
really, the front one way gear is the only breakable part. if you damage it it can be cleaned up with a sharp surgical blade. i race with a 6t hacker brushless and only found the gear becoming "damaged" after very hard hits. i cleaned it up and it was fine... now to figure out how the top drivers get 4 laps over me in 5 minutes........oww yeah, i remember, clean lines!
really, the front one way gear is the only breakable part. if you damage it it can be cleaned up with a sharp surgical blade. i race with a 6t hacker brushless and only found the gear becoming "damaged" after very hard hits. i cleaned it up and it was fine... now to figure out how the top drivers get 4 laps over me in 5 minutes........oww yeah, i remember, clean lines!
08-13-2003, 08:13 AM
#3261
has anyone had a bent shaft? it seems that my shaft wiggles a bit...is this normal?
08-13-2003, 02:04 PM
#3262
Yes and No
Shafts get bent under extreme impacts. No car is immune to a bent center shaft. When the Evo3 first came out, I bent one at a state championships, had no spares, and suffered the rest of the day...only to realize that they arrived a week earlier and were only 5-7 bucks each. From then on, I've kept 2 or 3 on me at all times and replaced the one in the car whenever it looks really ratty or has a slight wobble...not that I'd ever go through that many in a race day..but it's always nice to know you're covered.
Shafts get bent under extreme impacts. No car is immune to a bent center shaft. When the Evo3 first came out, I bent one at a state championships, had no spares, and suffered the rest of the day...only to realize that they arrived a week earlier and were only 5-7 bucks each. From then on, I've kept 2 or 3 on me at all times and replaced the one in the car whenever it looks really ratty or has a slight wobble...not that I'd ever go through that many in a race day..but it's always nice to know you're covered.
08-13-2003, 02:08 PM
#3263
wat are must spare parts for the car?
08-13-2003, 02:17 PM
#3264
Hmmm, a spares list. Here's what I usually bring with me:
One way gears
Diff and Pinion Gears
Center Shaft
Universal Parts
Hinge Pin Sets
A and B Blocks (depends on your setup)
Hub Carriers
Steering Knuckle Bits
Spacers
Plastic Trees
Bearings
Screws
Redbull and Rockstars
and a can of Whoop-A$$
One way gears
Diff and Pinion Gears
Center Shaft
Universal Parts
Hinge Pin Sets
A and B Blocks (depends on your setup)
Hub Carriers
Steering Knuckle Bits
Spacers
Plastic Trees
Bearings
Screws
Redbull and Rockstars
and a can of Whoop-A$$
08-13-2003, 02:18 PM
#3265
im thinkin of just gettin an evoS since the price on the cuda went up
08-13-2003, 02:35 PM
#3266
Originally posted by rtypec
Hmmm, a spares list. Here's what I usually bring with me:
One way gears
Diff and Pinion Gears
Center Shaft
Universal Parts
Hinge Pin Sets
A and B Blocks (depends on your setup)
Hub Carriers
Steering Knuckle Bits
Spacers
Plastic Trees
Bearings
Screws
Redbull and Rockstars
and a can of Whoop-A$$
Hmmm, a spares list. Here's what I usually bring with me:
One way gears
Diff and Pinion Gears
Center Shaft
Universal Parts
Hinge Pin Sets
A and B Blocks (depends on your setup)
Hub Carriers
Steering Knuckle Bits
Spacers
Plastic Trees
Bearings
Screws
Redbull and Rockstars
and a can of Whoop-A$$
08-13-2003, 09:26 PM
#3269
Okay this is my recipe for the 19T. I don't have a dyno or anything like that so I can't provide numerical data to back this up. Just lots of track time.
1. Open new package containing a Reedy 19T Spec Motor
2. Solder on some capacitors to the endbell
3. Remove the brushes that came with the motor. Look at the wear on the brushes to see how close they are to being alligned. Allign the brushhoods if you feel like you're able to do it (I don't hehe)
4. Solder Trinity 4499's on. Use the straight serrated 4499's not the diagonal ones. The motor feels better with the straight serrations for some reason.
5. Cut the comm to make sure it's perfectly round.
6. Put the motor back together and shim the armature for magnet center with a little bit of play both ways. We don't want it bindy.
7. Bend the positive spring so that it's almost 180 degrees...more like 170-175 using the eyeball dyno.
8. Run the motor with approx 3V until the brushes are seated. This does not mean until the serrations are gone. Run it just enough so that there aren't super sharp edges on the brush. When their broken it...pull them out of the hoods. Spray some motor spray on a cotton swab (Q-Tip) and clean the face off the brush. You'll see a lot of poo come off with the swab (I don't use a stick because I believe they are too abrassive). RBF gets credit for this tip
9. Cut the comm again.
10. Reassemble, lube, and bolt it into your car.
11. Gear at 5.9 for tracks like Tamiya or 6.1-6.3 for tighter tracks like Socal.
That's it. I hope this helps
1. Open new package containing a Reedy 19T Spec Motor
2. Solder on some capacitors to the endbell
3. Remove the brushes that came with the motor. Look at the wear on the brushes to see how close they are to being alligned. Allign the brushhoods if you feel like you're able to do it (I don't hehe)
4. Solder Trinity 4499's on. Use the straight serrated 4499's not the diagonal ones. The motor feels better with the straight serrations for some reason.
5. Cut the comm to make sure it's perfectly round.
6. Put the motor back together and shim the armature for magnet center with a little bit of play both ways. We don't want it bindy.
7. Bend the positive spring so that it's almost 180 degrees...more like 170-175 using the eyeball dyno.
8. Run the motor with approx 3V until the brushes are seated. This does not mean until the serrations are gone. Run it just enough so that there aren't super sharp edges on the brush. When their broken it...pull them out of the hoods. Spray some motor spray on a cotton swab (Q-Tip) and clean the face off the brush. You'll see a lot of poo come off with the swab (I don't use a stick because I believe they are too abrassive). RBF gets credit for this tip
9. Cut the comm again.
10. Reassemble, lube, and bolt it into your car.
11. Gear at 5.9 for tracks like Tamiya or 6.1-6.3 for tighter tracks like Socal.
That's it. I hope this helps
08-13-2003, 09:31 PM
#3270
Originally posted by Difuser
Rod I see you added the Rockstar to the box the only way to go.
Rod I see you added the Rockstar to the box the only way to go.