rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Madjack-great idea on the chassis tape!! If I get any shorting issues-I'll do that!!! Does the tape have a good adhesive-or do you need to CA it in place?

madjack

iTrader: (28)

It is VERY sticky stuff! No need for CA. I included a photo of the finished product

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

Just a couple things on the drive train.Since the bulkheads are plastic and can easily tweak,when mounting the sway bars,do not over tighten the mount into the bulkhead because this will also cause binding.Its the same as not over tightening the diff cover to the bulk head.Car builds really easy.I am happy.Great Job Tamiya once again.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

madjack-car looks great!! I am worried though that I wont be able to mount my GT7 and R200 receiver on the chassis after looking at your pic. hmmmmm....... I already have the R200 in place mounted on its side against the back of the servo. Oh well!!!

madjack

iTrader: (28)

I have one of the Futaba low profile servos on order...I think I'll be able to get all the electronics flat on the chassis after it is installed

izzyracer

iTrader: (27)

Madjack or anyone, will that help keep the Battery in place?

ruf

iTrader: (3)

We will have the Evo3's in our shop for $300 as soon as Tamiya America gets them.

I couldn't justify paying for an early grey market import this time, so I can't wait! Too many cars already...

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the battery slot help. I'll leave mine the way it is. I guess the diagram on step one is a little misleading because it illustrates the chamfered edge on one of the slots as a right angle. It'll be easier to remove material later on if needed.

Joven, I'll save you a seat but I won't have my Evo3 ready by then. I'm rebuilding the 414 and will be running that instead.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

John e-mail me who you are getting the 9550 from there is noone local good to get Futaba here

Dan

PizzaDude

Thanks Izzy


To all,

Did anyone try the difference of running the stock set-up, or running without the plastic center-brace?


Pizza

madjack

iTrader: (28)

If you look at the jpg. I posted you will notice a alum. spacer between the plastic and the screw. I think I cut about 1/4 inch off the top of the plastic mount to bring the "hold down plate" close enough to the battery to keep the cells seated in the lower chassis. Seems to work ok.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

Pizza I have someone working on an Aluminium center brace that is milled like crazy to reduce weight. But should stiffen the center for carpet and high bite.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Okay-Here is the deal after my first run. Good news and bad!! First some info.

I ran a not so good stock motor, Jaco Foam tires on a fast 90 x 50" Ozite carpet track. Tarction was medium dues to it being cold in building and unused for a week.

I first ran my Losi XXXS and it sucked. Made it better then when i was happy with it I ran my TC3. Got that really good the decided to run some circles and set the EVO3 up just a bit. Well i ended up running two packs through it. First the:

bad news There were three major interferenace problems with the foam tires. You cannot run a rear sway bar. Tires lightly rub the top of the rear uprights. And last-major interference on the top of the ballstud on front C-hubs. I cut the top of the ballcup off, but ti still rubs. I must either cut some of the top of the steering upright off so ball sits lower or grind off the top of the ballstud. Bummer!!

good news The car felt exactly the same as my TC3-only smoother and less twitchy. The drivetrain had a lot of drag in it from being so new-but I think it will get better. When I would lift-car really slowed way down. that and that the front rims still ride on the ball-cups.

The car is manual-stock settings except for these changes.

Front

Shocks-60 wt. oil-no red thingy. Associated white spring.
4mm ride height. I dialed in just 2mm of uptravel.

Rear

Shocks-50 wt. oil. Stock yellow spring-but was going to change to Associated copper or purple. I know its the way to go!!! 2mm uptravel. Also A block in rear for 2 degrees toe in. No sway bar.

what I am going to change next
Try TRC foams as they have a bigger diameter rim.
drill new holes for the rear sway bar.
Move front camber link out one position (shorter).
Ttry a front diff-still running front one-way.
Overall i am very pleased that car right out of box was that easy to drive!! Also-I am amzed how easy it is to drive with the one-way. it doesnt feel any different to me than a diff. maybe because of the rims hitting!!!

MauiBuilt Racer

R, I checked continuity on the chassis and found out that the top and bottom layers of the chassis are not conductive. It's the layers that are in between that are conductive. Use CA and CA it really good in the battery slots. Also make sure to shave down the edges for it can cut the battery shrink and might end up shorting it.

MauiBuilt Racer

Hey dan, If you still have problems with the tranny clicking i have a solution for it. Email if your interested in knowing.