Tamiya TB-Evolution III
#1786
i want to know ur setup! hehe that would be great
#1787
how many ppl were there in each heat? hehe maybe if u weren't switched u might get #1! hehe...
#1788
Originally posted by davioh
how many ppl were there in each heat? hehe maybe if u weren't switched u might get #1! hehe...
how many ppl were there in each heat? hehe maybe if u weren't switched u might get #1! hehe...
7 in each heat. i'm a rookie by the way this is only my second race meet, don't ask about the first.
#1789
hehe good job! here is a pic of my tb stratus...updated...1 or 2
#1790
2 of 2!
#1791
hehe...in the blank area im gonna put a number 3! hehe...but i don't hav a sticker for that. if u see...my pics are focused! i figured out my camera CAN focus...hehe!
#1793
hehe..thanks!
#1794
Tech Adept
What is the best Tamiya body to run? TCS will be in Salt Lake in two months and I want to be prepared.
#1795
whats that gotta do with Evo 3? but anyways...NSX 2002 is nice...very low....hehe...and looks the best too!
#1796
The new NSX should be the body to have, esp since they've introduced it in a lightweight version. Very neutral handling, sorta like the stratus 2.0. Also, it doesn't have a tendancy to lid skid and stay turtled because of the roof scoop (roll hoop )
#1797
whats the diff between the lightweight version and the normal version anyways? i mean the effects of being lightweight...not the fact it is lightweight?
#1798
Tech Fanatic
The lightweight one it made of thinner lexan and that helps lower the weith of the car ever so slightly. I have both and the car feels more on its toes with the lightweight one on. Rick
#1799
Tech Apprentice
Guys, check this out. Evo III did really goog in this race. You guys probably know already.
http://www.lrp-electronic.de/e/main_frameset_e.htm
http://www.lrp-electronic.de/e/main_frameset_e.htm
#1800
ok heres my current setup, i like so i'm gonna keep it for awhile, maybe play around with sway bars.
if anyone tries it, let me know how it works for your.
Front
damper position hole = 3
upperarm position hole = 1
camber = -1.5
height = 5mm
rebound = 24.4mm(measured from top of axle to ground)
front drive = diff (1/4 turn tighter than back)
stabilizer =none
sus.mount spacer F=0.7mm r=0mm
toe out = 0.5
rear
damper position hole = 4
upperarm position hole = 4
camber = -2
height = 5mm
rebound = 24.4mm(measured from top of axle to ground)
upperarm position = b
diff (just tight enough not to slip)
stabilizer =none
sus.mount spacer F=2mm r=2.1mm
shocks = factory
length = factory
sus blocks = "A" blocks all round (2degrees toe-in rear)
pinion/spur = 42/78
motor = johnson 540
tires = kyosho belted 35 (these are a massive improvement over the kit tires)
wheels = +2mm offset
if anyone tries it, let me know how it works for your.
Front
damper position hole = 3
upperarm position hole = 1
camber = -1.5
height = 5mm
rebound = 24.4mm(measured from top of axle to ground)
front drive = diff (1/4 turn tighter than back)
stabilizer =none
sus.mount spacer F=0.7mm r=0mm
toe out = 0.5
rear
damper position hole = 4
upperarm position hole = 4
camber = -2
height = 5mm
rebound = 24.4mm(measured from top of axle to ground)
upperarm position = b
diff (just tight enough not to slip)
stabilizer =none
sus.mount spacer F=2mm r=2.1mm
shocks = factory
length = factory
sus blocks = "A" blocks all round (2degrees toe-in rear)
pinion/spur = 42/78
motor = johnson 540
tires = kyosho belted 35 (these are a massive improvement over the kit tires)
wheels = +2mm offset