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I've been out of 1/12th for a while now so basically starting from scratch. What does the VD-12 need out of the box? Is there a full set of rear ride height cams in the kit, front ride height shims (guessing R5?), does the kit still come with short and long rear damper tubes?
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Originally Posted by Conrad
(Post 15219971)
I've been out of 1/12th for a while now so basically starting from scratch. What does the VD-12 need out of the box? Is there a full set of rear ride height cams in the kit, front ride height shims (guessing R5?), does the kit still come with short and long rear damper tubes?
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Any tips for building the shock? Built it with green slime on the o-ring as per usual and the damn thing will no bleed. If you move the shock shaft at any speed it just keeps producing more bubbles. There is no oil leaking around the shock shaft but it must be drawing it in from the bottom of the body.
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You can save yourself a lot of headache by switching to this shock. It's way better IMO...
Team Prime 12th Scale/F1 Shock Set |
Or just add a M3x0.2mm shim to squeeze the kit o-ring a little bit and stop it drawing air in to the chamber. Not perfect but an easier fix for the moment.
Can't say I've overly impressed with the quality of alot of parts on the car. Way too much finessing required for a high end kit. |
Tight or Sloppy?
Originally Posted by Conrad
(Post 15244411)
Or just add a M3x0.2mm shim to squeeze the kit o-ring a little bit and stop it drawing air in to the chamber. Not perfect but an easier fix for the moment.
Can't say I've overly impressed with the quality of alot of parts on the car. Way too much finessing required for a high end kit. |
Yes. Finessing with a file or dremel is required :D Of course I might just be too fussy.
Some of the plastic parts are produced to a very high standard but a few parts aren't. Think machined part vs. moulded part. I had issue with the alloy parts as well. |
Originally Posted by Conrad
(Post 15244425)
Yes. Finessing with a file or dremel is required :D Of course I might just be too fussy.
Some of the plastic parts are produced to a very high standard but a few parts aren't. Think machined part vs. moulded part. I had issue with the alloy parts as well. |
I would also like to know which parts you are referring to. I have built 2 kits for myself and numerous others for people and have zero issues with fitment and measurements of parts. All top notch
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Originally Posted by Johnny Carey
(Post 15244457)
I would also like to know which parts you are referring to. I have built 2 kits for myself and numerous others for people and have zero issues with fitment and measurements of parts. All top notch
The slot in the top arms isn't wide enough to allow the carbon brace to fit easily. Filing the top arms solves the problem at the 2mm pin but then it is still too narrow after that point, I had to round the edges on the carbon brace to allow the top arm to drop freely. The pistons for short dampers aren't round and they are oversized so they bind very badly in the short tubes. The floating servo mount is only really designed for one size of servo, it could of been slotted so a Futaba S9650 could be fitted without modification. The shock won't bleed, it just keeps sucking in air. A M3x0.2mm shim was used to squash the o-ring which worked during the build but there is air in the shock now it's on the car and been worked a few times. The rear bulkheads needs a fair bit of material removing to allow the ride height cams to fit easily without causing the bearings to bind up. The diff drive hub needed the anodizing removed before the bearings could even be pressed in to it. The left hand drive hub wouldn't fit over the axle without removing the anodizing. The flanged rear axle bearings are junk. I've seen bushes that are easier to turn by hand. A good clean and oil has resolved this at least. |
Originally Posted by Conrad
(Post 15244476)
So, how did you stop the kit shock from pulling in air? :D
The slot in the top arms isn't wide enough to allow the carbon brace to fit easily. Filing the top arms solves the problem at the 2mm pin but then it is still too narrow after that point, I had to round the edges on the carbon brace to allow the top arm to drop freely. The pistons for short dampers aren't round and they are oversized so they bind very badly in the short tubes. The floating servo mount is only really designed for one size of servo, it could of been slotted so a Futaba S9650 could be fitted without modification. The shock won't bleed, it just keeps sucking in air. A M3x0.2mm shim was used to squash the o-ring which worked during the build but there is air in the shock now it's on the car and been worked a few times. The rear bulkheads needs a fair bit of material removing to allow the ride height cams to fit easily without causing the bearings to bind up. The diff drive hub needed the anodizing removed before the bearings could even be pressed in to it. The left hand drive hub wouldn't fit over the axle without removing the anodizing. The flanged rear axle bearings are junk. I've seen bushes that are easier to turn by hand. A good clean and oil has resolved this at least. Air in the shock? Didn’t have any issues building mine. I have had the same oil for awhile with no air, built per the instructions Servo mount is built for racing servos, Sanwa/ko. There’s a company that sells one for 9650 west coast rc works, or a roche one fits The diff cams are tight, but I start with top in first then push bottom in. Haven’t had any binding issues, but I know this has been a problem before. |
:blush: A Futaba 9650 is a racing servo, obviously it's just more popular in the UK than stateside. I'd much rather see a slotted chassis than using the floating mount, the mount is just extra weight if your running transverse layout.
I forgot to mention the short damper ball on top of the A arms. Nowhere near enough material to keep the ball attached to the arm when you try to remove the damper like a normal ball end :weird: |
Originally Posted by Conrad
(Post 15245060)
:blush: A Futaba 9650 is a racing servo, obviously it's just more popular in the UK than stateside. I'd much rather see a slotted chassis than using the floating mount, the mount is just extra weight if your running transverse layout.
I forgot to mention the short damper ball on top of the A arms. Nowhere near enough material to keep the ball attached to the arm when you try to remove the damper like a normal ball end :weird: I dont pop those off, when i disassemble, just slide them out and leave them connected |
Originally Posted by Conrad
(Post 15245060)
:blush: A Futaba 9650 is a racing servo, obviously it's just more popular in the UK than stateside. I'd much rather see a slotted chassis than using the floating mount, the mount is just extra weight if your running transverse layout.
I forgot to mention the short damper ball on top of the A arms. Nowhere near enough material to keep the ball attached to the arm when you try to remove the damper like a normal ball end :weird: |
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
(Post 15245919)
9650 along with older and newer futaba same size variants are really popular in US. if a 1/12 car does not take this or similar. i would declare it a elvis impersonator
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