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Awesomatix A800/A800R

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Old 03-29-2023, 11:28 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Awesomatix A800/A800R
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Last edit by: hanulec
A800R Released March 23, 2023 with two kit versions, A800RA (alloy) and A800RC (carbon)


Mid Motor Content ---

New Part Releases
  • January 2020 - A800-AM24-20 Servo Holder - combine servo holder and steering holder to one single part.
  • February 2020 - A800-ADC Advanced Damper Cup Set - Reduces the amount of rebuild routines. It offers the possibility to A) remove air and B) add oil into the damper without the need of full disassembling
  • January 2021 - A800-BDL - Body Downtravel Limiter, replaces SPR08
  • March 2021 - A800-P138LFA - 38T Pully Low Friction - For Gear Diff
  • March 2021 - A800-P138S-LFA 38T Spool Pulley Low Friction - For Spool
  • April 2021 - A800-C27MMX - Full Length Top Deck for A800MMX
  • May 2021 - A800-C01MMA Alloy Chassis - Battery position is shifted to the front to achieve a better overall weight distribution. Removes short arm holes. New narrower shape
  • September 2021 - A800-C04M1+7.0 Arm - narrows the track width for lower grip levels
  • October 2021 - AM180EVO Single Bellcrank Steering Update - AM180EVO is a direct replacement for AM180M5

A800MMX and A800MMXA Kit Updates
  • AM152/AM24-8 is replaced by AM24-20 in this kit (UPDATE 08.03.2021)
  • P138/P138S is replaced by P138-1/P138S-1 in this kit (UPDATE 25.03.2021)
  • C01B-X-MMA is replaced by C01MMA in MMXA kit (UPDATE 26.05.2021)
  • AM180M5 is replaced by AM180EVO in this kit (UPDATE 21.09.2021)


Below OLD Rear Motor Content ---
Welcome - please help to make this Awesomatix A800 wiki useful!

A800 Information
New Parts
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01-98 - The version of SPR01 springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01S-98 - The version of SPR01S springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • May / June 2016: A800-AM14A - includes new optional "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A700-AM14-3 - removes the prior "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C04AL+0.5 - 0.5mm wider alloy suspension arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C01B-2.25 - 2.25mm carbon main plate (best suited for asphalt racing)
  • May / June 2016: A800-D2.2 - Dampers that support a thicker SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H3 - Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper
  • May / June 2016: A800-AT41-2 - Damper vane for the D2.2 damper designed to work w/ SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H - Stronger Shock Rod Guides for the D2.0 and D2.1 damper versions
  • May 2016: A800-AM19-4 - Currently used in the rear of a kit. With AM19-4 the top link effective length is 0,7mm shorter compare to AM19-2. Also with AM19-4 the flex of suspension is smaller ( similar to more stiffer arm and c-hub of normal cars). The screws on dampers are more accessible for adjustment.
  • January 2017 - SPRO2X - new for dampers and do not require a 98 degree bent spring.
  • January 2017 - New A800X and A800XA kits now available featuring 0.3mm longer front and rear wheelbase.
Kit Updates
  • May - Current: Kits now including DT10-2-1 bearing holders for increased side play and durability of the differential and spool.
  • May - July 2016: bearings within kits require oil before use
  • May / June 2016: C01B-AL (Khaki) Chassis with 0.5mm/side wider front arm mounts
  • May / June 2016: 2x ST17-1-S replace ST17 - See page 21 of manual
  • May / June 2016: Updated damper, D2.2, introduced
  • May / June 2016: Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper included with kits, A800-SPR02H3
  • Jan 2016: GD2 Output Axle (ST31-1) update to use blue foam (P46) instead of set screw (used on each side of Axle after assembly)


Setups
Major Race Wins
  • 2016 Reedy Race of Champions - Modified - Julian Wong
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 17.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 13.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2015/6 ETS Season 9 Round 3 - Xray Pro Stock Division - Tony Streit
  • 2015 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 International Indoor Championships (IIC) - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Halloween Classic at the Gate - 17.5 - Brad Johnson
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 -Matt Lyons
  • 2016 Stock Wars - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Hudy Indoor Championship - 17.5 - Brad Johnson

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Old 03-04-2024, 10:52 AM
  #6706  
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Can anyone help me with when tires ( RIDE 26082 ) become shiny after a run, on soaked low grip carpet.
Have tried Mighty Gripper V3 Black, MR33 V4 Carpet and CS High Grip Carpet with a time of 10 to 15 min. and none of them worked.
When you clean the tires with the Wurth brake cleaner, was there only a yellowish thing on the cloth and not black as it should be.....???

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Old 03-04-2024, 02:44 PM
  #6707  
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Originally Posted by Sleighty
Hi, I changed the rear diff to the small shim configuration last week (amongst some other small setup changes) and the car became totally undriveable with bad snap throttle off oversteer on corner entry. I previously ran a diff set up of 5k and large kit washer and moved to 7k with small shims. Has anyone else had these sort of issues when moving to small diff shims? Is the 2k uplift in fluid enough? During the race meeting I changed back many of my other setup changes which didn't solve the issue but I didn't have time to rebuild the diff back to original configuration.

Anyone have any input or things to try? I'm on ETS black carpet.
no ETS carpet experience here ... but its really helpful if you have a resistance measurement on your diff. various companies sell these diff checkers. you can then know for certain that what you put back into your car is either stiffer / softer / similar (but different due to shim changes).
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Old 03-11-2024, 01:52 PM
  #6708  
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Originally Posted by Sleighty
Hi, I changed the rear diff to the small shim configuration last week (amongst some other small setup changes) and the car became totally undriveable with bad snap throttle off oversteer on corner entry. I previously ran a diff set up of 5k and large kit washer and moved to 7k with small shims. Has anyone else had these sort of issues when moving to small diff shims? Is the 2k uplift in fluid enough? During the race meeting I changed back many of my other setup changes which didn't solve the issue but I didn't have time to rebuild the diff back to original configuration.

Anyone have any input or things to try? I'm on ETS black carpet.
I raced ETS/Daun on 7k and Small Washers....upon return to US I left this in the car.....to see how it would feel....why not....?
- - Result = bad snap throttle as you said on US Black Rug).

For your comparison:
- - Before going to EU: I was on 10k and small washer....I had also tried 8k and small washer and it was marginal for off-corner drive so I stuck with 10k.
- - After returning to US: I hadn't tried the large washer, so I built the diff with 8k and large washer....which on track is as-safe-as the 10k/small.

Summary = large washer for about 2k benefit at the most. Might also add the car (or me) was very consistent with 8k/large last couple weeks now....or this is from having some proper beers with EU racers....
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Old 03-11-2024, 06:21 PM
  #6709  
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I have an A800R with an aluminum chassis. How much lighter is the carbon chassis when compared to the aluminum chassis?
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Old 03-13-2024, 05:14 AM
  #6710  
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Are there any ethical concerns with Awesomatix as a company? After what's happening with the xray armgate I'm really considering not giving a single dollar to Xray/Hudy.

Don't get me wrong, i think the Awesomatix car is harder to build and work on, has less support, harder to get spares, harder to dial in on the track, etc. But if I decide to boycot Xray and then find out Awesomatix also has shady business practices, then what's the point? Thanks

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Old 03-13-2024, 05:49 AM
  #6711  
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Originally Posted by Toat
Are there any ethical concerns with Awesomatix as a company? After what's happening with the xray armgate I'm really considering not giving a single dollar to Xray/Hudy.

Don't get me wrong, i think the Awesomatix car is harder to build and work on, has less support, harder to get spares, harder to dial in on the track, etc. But if I decide to boycot Xray and then find out Awesomatix also has shady business practices, then what's the point? Thanks
I'm with you on Xray/Hudy... They don't get anymore of my money. As far as AMX though, none of the people at our track seem to have issues with spares, building, or tuning. Maybe it's my driving style, but I'm much faster now with the AMX. I know just about everyone at our track talks trash and hates Side Piece Racing "US distributor" for various reasons but I don't know of any shady dealings with the mother ship. I kind of appreciate that they don't release a new car with different parts every year or parts that have known issues. The design is different but you'll get use to it. I guarantee you'll be faster once you understand the car. The quick damper/spring tuning is what I love the most about the A800R, don't have to tear down shocks to make a small change.
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Old 03-13-2024, 06:56 AM
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Been running AMX since 2013. From my experience AMX support has been as good as Xray. Here are some reasons to pick AMX as your next car.

1. Setup sheets are promptly posted after a big race. There are also lots of setup sheets posted.
2. Parts are readily available.
3. A lot of older parts can be used on the newest gen car.
4. Part quality and fit are excellent.
5. The car is durable.
6. It's a cutting edge car. Look at every manufacturer. Every one has copied some aspect of Oleg's engineering.
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Old 03-13-2024, 08:29 AM
  #6713  
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Originally Posted by Toat
Are there any ethical concerns with Awesomatix as a company? After what's happening with the xray armgate I'm really considering not giving a single dollar to Xray/Hudy.

Don't get me wrong, i think the Awesomatix car is harder to build and work on, has less support, harder to get spares, harder to dial in on the track, etc. But if I decide to boycot Xray and then find out Awesomatix also has shady business practices, then what's the point? Thanks
"the Awesomatix car is harder to build"
The fit and finish is impeccable. Parts go together just perfectly. Pay attention to the manual. Watch videos from the team drivers. The design is very unique in a lot of ways, so you can't just always assemble by your intuition until you're used to the car. With all TCs, as the design emphasizes lower and centralized CG, and improving flex and durability, they sacrifice ease of maintenance and workability. Changing lower arm shims on an Awesomatix is kind of a pain in the ass. Changing lower arm length is a multi-hour project. But it's not like you're doing those things every run or every day.

"the Awesomatix car...has less support, harder to get spares, harder to dial in on the track, etc."
I disagree completely but I guess it depends where you're located. You can easily get parts online in the US from Side Piece, Dollar Hobbyz, Team EAM, and Michaels. There are Awesomatix drivers everywhere, and setup info is well shared and posted online. AwesomatixUSA has a Google Drive shared folder with setups. There's an active Discord group. And this forum is very helpful.

Every manufacture has had some element on a car that sucked or was a weak link at one point or another but all of the good manufactures fixed it and moved on.

If nothing else, I'd say it's worth trying the Awesomatix to see if you like the design and how it drives. Finding a car that matches your driving and that you enjoy working on is more important.
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Old 03-13-2024, 10:16 AM
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I've never had any issues getting spares. Mike at Sidepiece does a great job. So does Ryan Maker. I also have a friend who sells awesomatix parts online, great guy, company is called heat wave hobbies.
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Old 03-13-2024, 02:41 PM
  #6715  
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Originally Posted by JeffC
"the Awesomatix car is harder to build"
The fit and finish is impeccable. Parts go together just perfectly. Pay attention to the manual. Watch videos from the team drivers. The design is very unique in a lot of ways, so you can't just always assemble by your intuition until you're used to the car. With all TCs, as the design emphasizes lower and centralized CG, and improving flex and durability, they sacrifice ease of maintenance and workability. Changing lower arm shims on an Awesomatix is kind of a pain in the ass. Changing lower arm length is a multi-hour project. But it's not like you're doing those things every run or every day.

"the Awesomatix car...has less support, harder to get spares, harder to dial in on the track, etc."
I disagree completely but I guess it depends where you're located. You can easily get parts online in the US from Side Piece, Dollar Hobbyz, Team EAM, and Michaels. There are Awesomatix drivers everywhere, and setup info is well shared and posted online. AwesomatixUSA has a Google Drive shared folder with setups. There's an active Discord group. And this forum is very helpful.

Every manufacture has had some element on a car that sucked or was a weak link at one point or another but all of the good manufactures fixed it and moved on.

If nothing else, I'd say it's worth trying the Awesomatix to see if you like the design and how it drives. Finding a car that matches your driving and that you enjoy working on is more important.
Can't speak to the A800 range, but my A12 didn't go together perfectly. The damper wouldn't fit into the chassis cavity without sanding it down. No brand is immune to tolerances.
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Old 03-13-2024, 03:46 PM
  #6716  
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
Can't speak to the A800 range, but my A12 didn't go together perfectly. The damper wouldn't fit into the chassis cavity without sanding it down. No brand is immune to tolerances.
I build a few A12. That part is a perfect fit. You don't have to sand it. Just have to go in certain angle, and it fits right in.
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Old 03-13-2024, 03:48 PM
  #6717  
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Originally Posted by bd007
I build a few A12. That part is a perfect fit. You don't have to sand it. Just have to go in certain angle, and it fits right in.
Mine didn't. Again, manufacturing tolerances. It was 0.2mm wider than the gap. I had 2 other dampers that did drop straight in without sanding.
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Old 03-13-2024, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
Can't speak to the A800 range, but my A12 didn't go together perfectly. The damper wouldn't fit into the chassis cavity without sanding it down. No brand is immune to tolerances.
My 800R had issues with the hub openings being too small for the bearings. I had to use a small sanding drum on my Dremel to get them to size. Nothing against Awesomatix, this car was the first car I had any issues with, and I have bought more AMX cars than I have of any other brand. And I've been in the hobby for almost 20 years.
For the most part, the fit and finish is superior to any other kits I have built.
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Old 03-13-2024, 06:12 PM
  #6719  
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No real issue with AMX. Its not necessarily a harder car to build, but definitely a different building process than "traditional" cars. I had my 800R and some other of my friend's 800R come with soft springs instead of hard for some reason but thanks to the unique variable spring rate adjuster on the damper I was able to dial in the spring rate close to what stock calls for. Fit and finish of the car has been great. I was having issues with leaky dampers but o-ring screws solved that issue. Depending on manufacturing tolerances, some might have this issue, some dont. Setting up the car definitely need some getting used to but you will get the hang of it QUICK seeing how often this car needs its setup checked, but once everything is dialed in man does it drive good. I didnt have too big of a crash, but the car seem to be durable enough. Parts support for me has been great for me here so no real issues also.
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Old 03-14-2024, 03:09 AM
  #6720  
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disaster999 What do you mean with: "leaky dampers but o-ring screws solved that issue" Which screws are that?
I noticed some slight leaking on the 800R dampers on my sons car. I haven't found a solution for. I now regularly check the dampers. Normally they are just sweating a bit. Some oil underneath the damper on the chassis.
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