142LikesVBC Lightning FX
06-03-2018, 04:04 PM
#571
06-04-2018, 06:13 AM
#572
Tech Regular
06-06-2018, 08:15 AM
#573
You're welcome , otherwise you certainly can use the exotek front arm set
F104 / TRF102 ADJUSTABLE FRONT ARM SET v3 - Exotek Racing
F104 / TRF102 ADJUSTABLE FRONT ARM SET v3 - Exotek Racing
06-08-2018, 02:44 AM
#575
i use a setup station for 1/10 touring car
for me the stock configuration is ok but have too much play on the upper arms. But the main flaw for me is the upper arm outer cup . it can be ripped off to easily. It's ok if you run gently for fun around a track, but for a race car ... not strong enough.
for me the stock configuration is ok but have too much play on the upper arms. But the main flaw for me is the upper arm outer cup . it can be ripped off to easily. It's ok if you run gently for fun around a track, but for a race car ... not strong enough.
06-09-2018, 09:18 AM
#577
i use a setup station for 1/10 touring car
for me the stock configuration is ok but have too much play on the upper arms. But the main flaw for me is the upper arm outer cup . it can be ripped off to easily. It's ok if you run gently for fun around a track, but for a race car ... not strong enough.
for me the stock configuration is ok but have too much play on the upper arms. But the main flaw for me is the upper arm outer cup . it can be ripped off to easily. It's ok if you run gently for fun around a track, but for a race car ... not strong enough.
I was really impressed with the design of the FX18...bought one and was very disappointed with the quality of the parts, especially the plastics. Perhaps it's not designed for the average racer like me who would occasionally bump another car or drive up a corner marker.
Personally, I wouldn't race this car, as it doesn't give me the assurance that I can push the car, and still complete the race. It could be fast when you are running your own race during qualifying, but racing in the mains could expose its vulnerability.
I am sure many racers out there are willing to pay a little more to receive better quality materials with this kit.
06-09-2018, 02:45 PM
#578
I haven't had any major problems with the front arms on my FX18. I have stripped a couple of the upper ball connectors, but I've never broken an a-arm.
As others have noted, using slightly longer turnbuckles is necessary to get more thread engagement to avoid stripped ball connectors and a-arms. If you're running low camber with the stock turnbuckles you won't have many threads inside the plastics.
Tip for extra thread engagement: increase the spacer thickness between the a-arm mounts and the bulkhead. This will push the a-arms further out allowing more thread contact. Stock spacers are 2.5 mm, but I'm now using 4 mm spacers. The front end is quite solid with this spacer trick and 23 mm turnbuckles.
As others have noted, using slightly longer turnbuckles is necessary to get more thread engagement to avoid stripped ball connectors and a-arms. If you're running low camber with the stock turnbuckles you won't have many threads inside the plastics.
Tip for extra thread engagement: increase the spacer thickness between the a-arm mounts and the bulkhead. This will push the a-arms further out allowing more thread contact. Stock spacers are 2.5 mm, but I'm now using 4 mm spacers. The front end is quite solid with this spacer trick and 23 mm turnbuckles.
06-10-2018, 05:58 AM
#579
Tech Regular
I haven't had any major problems with the front arms on my FX18. I have stripped a couple of the upper ball connectors, but I've never broken an a-arm.
As others have noted, using slightly longer turnbuckles is necessary to get more thread engagement to avoid stripped ball connectors and a-arms. If you're running low camber with the stock turnbuckles you won't have many threads inside the plastics.
Tip for extra thread engagement: increase the spacer thickness between the a-arm mounts and the bulkhead. This will push the a-arms further out allowing more thread contact. Stock spacers are 2.5 mm, but I'm now using 4 mm spacers. The front end is quite solid with this spacer trick and 23 mm turnbuckles.
As others have noted, using slightly longer turnbuckles is necessary to get more thread engagement to avoid stripped ball connectors and a-arms. If you're running low camber with the stock turnbuckles you won't have many threads inside the plastics.
Tip for extra thread engagement: increase the spacer thickness between the a-arm mounts and the bulkhead. This will push the a-arms further out allowing more thread contact. Stock spacers are 2.5 mm, but I'm now using 4 mm spacers. The front end is quite solid with this spacer trick and 23 mm turnbuckles.
06-18-2018, 03:16 AM
#581
My FX18
Just wanted to share my freshly rebuilt FX18. Changed some weak parts out.
1. TRF Short Big Bore shock from TRF419X
2. Yokomo touring car spring (Black)
3. Xenon spur
4. Ceramic diff balls
5. ARC Ball Cups
6. 4mm x 23mm titanium turnbuckles
7. Montech F13 body shell
1. TRF Short Big Bore shock from TRF419X
2. Yokomo touring car spring (Black)
3. Xenon spur
4. Ceramic diff balls
5. ARC Ball Cups
6. 4mm x 23mm titanium turnbuckles
7. Montech F13 body shell
06-18-2018, 09:02 AM
#582
All this are good tips. I also had not in my kit nor it is anywhere in the manual the spacer below the upper bulkhead and lower part. It is very serious omission as without it the kit is basically non functional. One wanders if anyone at VBC have ever tried to put together and run the car from the kit and instructions included.... Very sad as the rear of the car is quiet innovative....
06-19-2018, 01:40 PM
#585
Tech Regular
Then it is bad engineering - the M4 turnbuckle should be 3-4 mm longer. I can see the reason for not using the spacer - larger chamber gain and its legitimate. But the turnbackle needs to be longer in such case.