Tamiya do have at least two official importers, being Waigo for RC stuffs and Universal for plastic models, though many shops here do order and import direct from Japanese wholesalers. I bet some, if not a significant portion, of Tamiya stuffs of RC Mart comes from Waigo, because they got their Tamiya stuffs at the same time as with all other local shops. And being in the trade before and knowing Waigo for decades I won't want to piss them off too much or I risk having to import on my own those stuffs that Waigo carry, including Yokomo, Futaba, Sanwa, Axial, Savox, Ride just to name a few, but doing that way I am not necessary better off because Waigo price are quite competitive. And we here don't necessary get Tamiya things faster, sometimes Tamiya intentionally delay releasing their products in the Japanese market and/or Asian market in order to deter gray markets, like the 419 was available here after guys in Europe already had their cars assembled and running

How much heavier? All from the shaft drive components? Do the 419 and EVO 6 share many parts?

Also, can someone confirm the wheelbase measurements for the 419 and the Evo 6? Is it 251mm and 257mm respectively?

I don't have these cars. But the wheel bases can be set up exactly the same on basically every Tamiya racing sedan. Just depends if you have the same suspension arms, wheel hexes, spacers and suspension blocks on it.

EVO6, 418 and 419 have the same suspension arms. Suspension blocks are not as starightforward, but they do fit.

Wheelbase is not set at anything specifically. All touring sedans have a range of about 10 mm per wheel so you can have anything between 240 and 260. The manual comes with a certain setup which may give one specific value or another, but that's just a starting point for your own tuning.

Great info - so I can adjust the rear axle to accommodate slightly different wheelbases. Any tips/tutorials on lining up bodies for perfectly even front/back and left/right placement?

I ordered the protoform crosshairs magnets but wondered if you TC guys have a way of doing it with these tall posts

Yeah, great info for people who never had a car before. I think you best post in the newbie thread. This is not the right place for such questions.

Adjusting wheelbase is a fine tuning instrument to improve car handling not to fit bodies. You will do that after you have cut and painted your body and tested your car on the track, so you need to allow some leeway when cutting wheel wells.

All those gizmos are useless. All you need is patience, experience, a fine marker, a body reamer (but drills of appropriate size will do), one 400mm ruler and a 200mm square both divided as finely as possible (mm is enough but you can get .5 mm divided if you're really anal), the square best if it has a square base.

Front post distance is roughly 70mm center to center (on all cars) rear post distance is about 100mm (again on all cars). Find how far from the front to the rear posts on your chassis, decide where you want the body to sit in relation to the wheel wells, trace the middle line for your body and bob's your uncle. You'll figure it out from there if you paid attention in geometry class.

hey,

First experience with 419 is great however rear diff is leaking a lot at outdrive ;(. Assembled like white one using green slim and tamiya o ring... Old one didnt have such issue but works smoothly ;)!
I also made car shorter and narrower the rear for carpet. Still a lot to check/test, i like it as well i like my v5. Making tweak free is also a bit more complex than on v5, at least for me :).
Anybody else to share experience?

Crosshairs magnets will work fine. You can also get these little pointed tips to go on posts and they will put a small dot where the hole needs to go. You can also position it where you want it and take a fine sharpie and mark up under the body. There are plenty of ways to cut and mount a body. You will find "your" way. Feel free to post here with any other questions, most everyone is willing to help.

And way before it was available in the US... where you can finally get it for the low low price of US$632 (tower)...

Yep, almost everyone. Except of course for the bloke that has no intention of ever owning one.

C'mon guys, stop argueing about something that isn't that important or has something to do with this chassis.
There are no stupid questions but only stupid answers, that's what we say here in Belgium;)
We all have something in common and that's RC cars and racing. Let's go from there on and let us share our thoughts to help each other, that's what this forum is ment to be and is all about.

Happy new year to all;)

Wrong.

Browse these pages and you'll see most of the discussion is about completely irrelevant stuff like how to fit a body, upgrades and such, without actual race feedback, which suggests most people here don't race much if at all and next year the same people will dump this year's car and buy the next one thinking they'll get faster with more typing experience under their belt and as little race time as ever. R/C passion? You might as well collect bottle caps.
Good luck.

Spot on, niznai.

Then get us back on topic Mr. Almighty. Are you racing the car yet? What is your set-up and are you running well? I don't see a lot of feedback from you or anyone else on racing information here.

I have found a pretty good comfort zone with my 418 on carpet and have not built my 419 yet. I check these pages to see what feedback is left regarding 419 build tips and racing set-ups. I had high hopes for the new diff, but I can tell you I am alarmed at the recent posts regarding the new diff leaking. Is there anyone who is running there car frequently without the diff leaking?