Tighten the screws a little at a time and do them diagonally, not just going to each one in turn.
Bit like doing up head bolts on an engine, or road wheels on a car

tighten the screw in the order of 12 O'clock, 6, 9, 3 to snug - then repeat small turns at a time until tight.

fill volume is just to submerge the pins, or around 1.5-7g

Thanks for all the great tips!
I got it rebuilt and looks much better now.
I have 2 more questions.
What is the drive ratio for the trf419? Is it the same as 417?
I looked everywhere, but I couldn't it find it. I am looking for a pinion gear for stock 116t spur gear.

Second question is:
The c hub area has some up down, forward and back slop.
Up down is about 0.1mm or less, I could shim this one, but it made the steering some what less freely, so I left it that in-shimmed.

But forward and back a another 0.1-0.2mm slop. I think it is there due to the design of the part, I couldn't fix this one at all.

I don't think there is such car called slop free.
When you guys have to choose, would you rather have a slightly bind slop free, or moving freely, but has a little slop?
It is a small car, so I don't know how much slop is acceptable. I am not sure if I should be anal about it like many of you on there.
Thanks for advices!

The internal ratio for the TRF419 is 1.85 and is on top of page 20 in the manual.

For my club's 17.5 blinky sedan class, I use an FDR value around 3.5 to 4.0 depending on the track layout. With that in mind, a 55T pinion and 113T spur would yield an FDR of 3.9 Adjust from there.

Hi there

Check this awesome site for setups and more:
http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/tam...iyaTRF419.html

Please use the TA05 C-Hubs because they are stronger than the Kit ones. The Kits C-Hubs are not stable enough.

did you have a 55t fit with the 113?

I'm having problems with my 419 diff. The shims keep deforming allowing the drive pin to drop down and damage the gear . Does anyone know of any shims that are slightly thicker that won't go out of shape

Here is what I did on my former 419's Diff that you can try:
1) use double cardin's PINS (which is same diameter pins but slightly longer) so it is more stable

2) diff shim use TDX shims 0.3 instead of Tamiya's because the diameter are much larger than tamiya's shims (They are almost as wide as the diff bevel gears itself instead of tamiya's shims that is half the diameter of the diff bevel gears)

3) use Xray diff O rings to prevent leaks

Ok thanks I'll try that

Welcome to Tamiya Land.

If you only have .1-.2mm slop, just wait until you run the car a bit.

yeah, you can shim the bejesus out of everything that has slo, but where's the fun in that? It works with slop. Just replace all those balljoints with the fluorine coated shock ballnuts (about 50$ to do all balljoints - now you understand why Xrays are expensive) and forget about the rest.

It shows you have not tried other cars. Find some mate's Xray or Yokomo and check those for slop.

Which should hint you what to do to get rid of slop in your car. Use Yokomo or Xray parts. Now they actually are directly compatible and a swap is a direct fit.

You're welcome!

Hey, guys, I spent a few hours at track today.
Thai was first time on track.
My car was running on carpet.
I felt like the car simply have too much steering, and the car some times flips for no reason....
What are the common reasons for body flipping?
The guys at track told me I need a wing.
But I don't think wing was the only problem... Do I need stiffer springs?
My 419 is all stock.

Post your setup

Anyone have a antenna post they want to sell ?

There is a link posted a few post earlier on this page to petit rc. Find a set up and copy it. I doubt your properly building your shocks correctly. Not having a wing will usually make your car spin out going into the corners. Not traction rolling. If your traction rolling. You'll probably end up with a softer set up. But start with a set up from that site and copy the set up. If you don't know what something means. Come back here and ask.