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-   -   Tamiya TRF419 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/831585-tamiya-trf419.html)

Raman 07-01-2018 11:08 AM


Originally Posted by airbiscuit (Post 15254392)
Changes:

Rear diff was at 2k. Changed to 3.5k today.
Front/rear shocks was at 350. Changed rear to 400.
Front springs was SMJ yellow. Rear was SMJ red. Changes are to front only to SMJ red so both are on reds.
Front : 3.5mm spacers on bulkhead. Zero on c hub. Initially was 3mm/0.5mm.

Left untouched:

No changes to front & rear arms spacer. Both are on 3mms on the FF block & RR block.
Drop is 5mm front 4mm rear. Measured according to the 419x/xr setup sheet.
1 degree camber all around
1 degree toe out on the front. 2 degree in on the rear
Ride height : 5.2mm front 5.4 rear
Rear : 2mm spacers on bulkhead. 1mm on upright.

Now I am getting better steering but on power on corner exit, the rear side spins out.

increase front drop a 1/8 of turn and try again. Then after you test it, increase another 1/8

Qatmix 07-01-2018 02:40 PM

Also try more camber on the rear 1.5 or 2.0

Raman 07-01-2018 03:48 PM

I run 1.5 caber all around on gray and black carpet

airbiscuit 07-01-2018 04:19 PM

Just wanting to know, what changes actually is making my rear side spins out?

Is it the harder-ish shock oil? (350 to 400)
No changes in spring used.

Raman 07-01-2018 05:20 PM


Originally Posted by airbiscuit (Post 15254622)
Just wanting to know, what changes actually is making my rear side spins out?

Is it the harder-ish shock oil? (350 to 400)
No changes in spring used.

It’s most likely weight transfer issue.. but its hard to say without seeing the car.

airbiscuit 07-01-2018 05:50 PM

Speaking of which, I found it puzzling that most setup sheet for the TRF419, uses 4 mm down stop at the back.

On my kit which is the 419XR (SSBB with its shock tower) by doing this, the droop screws are not even touching the lower deck when I lift the rear side of. The length of the shocks (fully extended) is not long enough to make the arms on the rear to even hang low enough so that the droop screws is touching the lower deck.

So does that mean my SSBB assembly is wrong? i.e. the total length of the shocks is shorter than normal?

Kelseyrc 07-01-2018 05:59 PM


Originally Posted by airbiscuit (Post 15254644)
Speaking of which, I found it puzzling that most setup sheet for the TRF419, uses 4 mm down stop at the back.

On my kit which is the 419XR (SSBB with its shock tower) by doing this, the droop screws are not even touching the lower deck when I lift the rear side of. The length of the shocks (fully extended) is not long enough to make the arms on the rear to even hang low enough so that the droop screws is touching the lower deck.

So does that mean my SSBB assembly is wrong? i.e. the total length of the shocks is shorter than normal?

What is your shock shaft length? The usual is 9.5 mm. If you screw the shock end in all the way your shock will be too short to be able to achieve higher droop settings.

airbiscuit 07-01-2018 06:05 PM


Originally Posted by Kelseyrc (Post 15254650)
What is your shock shaft length? The usual is 9.5 mm. If you screw the shock end in all the way your shock will be too short to be able to achieve higher droop settings.

Mine is on 9mm. Will adjust it to 9.5mm later. I hope I can notice some handling differences with the 0.5mm increase.


airbiscuit 07-01-2018 06:28 PM


Originally Posted by Macio4ever (Post 15254407)
Make 2 degrees camber on both ends. Oil 450 or higher. Leave front 0.5 on hub and 2 mm on bulkhead.

Miss this reply. 450 oil on all four?

Macio4ever 07-02-2018 12:44 AM


Originally Posted by airbiscuit (Post 15254671)
Miss this reply. 450 oil on all four?

Yes all four. I would also suggest drop 4,5 rear (measured to the bottom of the arm and 5,5 front. Check servo saver or use stiff horn. On small turns with high grip saver sometimes gives up and gives strange behaviour of the car. I assume that you are easy on throttle :) as it always possible to spinn around car with motor 17.5 or lower. I also assume that your tires are well prepared and right for the surface.

nubs 07-02-2018 09:24 AM


Originally Posted by airbiscuit (Post 15254392)
Changes:

Rear diff was at 2k. Changed to 3.5k today.
Front/rear shocks was at 350. Changed rear to 400.
Front springs was SMJ yellow. Rear was SMJ red. Changes are to front only to SMJ red so both are on reds.
Front : 3.5mm spacers on bulkhead. Zero on c hub. Initially was 3mm/0.5mm.

Left untouched:

No changes to front & rear arms spacer. Both are on 3mms on the FF block & RR block.
Drop is 5mm front 4mm rear. Measured according to the 419x/xr setup sheet.
1 degree camber all around
1 degree toe out on the front. 2 degree in on the rear
Ride height : 5.2mm front 5.4 rear
Rear : 2mm spacers on bulkhead. 1mm on upright.

Now I am getting better steering but on power on corner exit, the rear side spins out.

Take the droop measurement in the front from 5 to 4.5. By the way this is actually called downstop. Droop is a related measurement but not the same thing. Reduce your toe out to .5 degrees. Increase your rear springs to SMJ silver. Change your camber to 2 degrees all around.

airbiscuit 07-02-2018 03:35 PM


Originally Posted by Macio4ever (Post 15254791)
Yes all four. I would also suggest drop 4,5 rear (measured to the bottom of the arm and 5,5 front. Check servo saver or use stiff horn. On small turns with high grip saver sometimes gives up and gives strange behaviour of the car. I assume that you are easy on throttle :) as it always possible to spinn around car with motor 17.5 or lower. I also assume that your tires are well prepared and right for the surface.

All four. So where exactly is downstop being measured? From the hinge pin diameter (as shown from the setup sheet) or bottom of the arms?


Originally Posted by nubs (Post 15254950)
Take the droop measurement in the front from 5 to 4.5. By the way this is actually called downstop. Droop is a related measurement but not the same thing. Reduce your toe out to .5 degrees. Increase your rear springs to SMJ silver. Change your camber to 2 degrees all around.

SMJ Silver is the short one right? I am only on the short progressive.

nubs 07-02-2018 04:38 PM


Originally Posted by airbiscuit (Post 15255120)
All four. So where exactly is downstop being measured? From the hinge pin diameter (as shown from the setup sheet) or bottom of the arms?



SMJ Silver is the short one right? I am only on the short progressive.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...840c1402e8.png
Measure from the red line.

Only do the front to 4.5mm and leave the back at 4mm.
Since you don't have silver, go ahead and use purple springs. They are slightly stiffer than the reds. But you should get at least one set of the linears. I would also suggest going back to 2K diff. If you are running low grip, you will need that. As I mentioned, I use 3-7K for medium grip so you want lower than that.

We may also want to adjust the shims on your inner camber links.

airbiscuit 07-02-2018 04:41 PM


Originally Posted by nubs (Post 15255163)
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...840c1402e8.png
Measure from the red line.

Only do the front to 4.5mm and leave the back at 4mm.
Since you don't have silver, go ahead and use purple springs. They are slightly stiffer than the reds. But you should get at least one set of the linears. I would also suggest going back to 2K diff. If you are running low grip, you will need that. As I mentioned, I use 3-7K for medium grip so you want lower than that.

We may also want to adjust the shims on your inner camber links.

Thanks! I'll see what I can do =)


nubs 07-02-2018 04:43 PM


Originally Posted by airbiscuit (Post 15255165)
Thanks! I'll see what I can do =)

I saw that you had 2MM on the inner camber link in the back. leave it at that. But in the front you should have something like 2.5mm on the inner and .5mm on the outer. This will cause your front to roll more.


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