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Originally Posted by hipwell
(Post 15183334)
Don't forget the cost of spares on the tamiya is pretty much half that of the xray parts!
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Originally Posted by disaster999
(Post 15183198)
Orange, Black or Blue...your choice.
Honestly in the right hands, anyone can be fast with any car. Xray seems to be the "go to" chassis since they are the apple of RC. Easy to work on and tune, parts a plenty, aftermarket support as well. They have good marketing. Build quality is up there. And if your pocket is deep enough you can buy a new car every year with VERY minor and subtle changes. Theres bound to be a bunch of xray owners at a track so asking around to setup or parts shouldnt be a huge problem Yokomo needs more work to get the right setup. I have not personally owned one, but everyone ive talked to have nothing but negative things to say about the car. Setting up the car takes a lot of effort, you have to constantly try new things to get the right setting. They dont handle out of the box. Team Associate cars only seem to be popular in the USA cuz 'Murica. Good luck with part support of you are outside of the states. Niche markets like the 4X, or Awesomatix, Schumacher etc are all good cars. Pain the ass to setup with the dual upper links or those weird ass drum looking dampers. After market part support is pretty much non-existent, you pretty much have to rely online for parts and setup tips. Really depends whats important to you. Very valid points. To fill in on the Yokomo.. they are a little bit difficult to get them set up but once figured out they do become the dark side weapon on the track :lol: I love mine and the quality of parts is amazing, Very fast once figured out and folks aren't likely to copy the set up :P Originally I didn't want a Xray fleet because everyone has them, every plastic part seems bulky and too much orange for my liking but very good cars / manufacture. I use to run Tamiya TC cars and I am still a huge Tamiya fan boy for reasons I can't explain. Maybe from child hood building memories.. I feel like the C hub's would be the death of me.. I am very good and not hitting anything and finish well in the top mains but If I happen to tap a board once or twice I can't risk not finishing the race. I may buy a 419X off a friend to have shortly.. |
Nubs you being a Tamiya Fan maybe the 419X is viable for yourself and you are accustom to Tamiya's suspension parts, trick glitches and part support.
I would recommend the Yok's as Quality and a great build / design. Spare parts are fair to buy and in stock most places |
Originally Posted by DaSilva3525
(Post 15183527)
Very valid points. To fill in on the Yokomo.. they are a little bit difficult to get them set up but once figured out they do become the dark side weapon on the track :lol: I love mine and the quality of parts is amazing, Very fast once figured out and folks aren't likely to copy the set up :P Originally I didn't want a Xray fleet because everyone has them, every plastic part seems bulky and too much orange for my liking but very good cars / manufacture.
I use to run Tamiya TC cars and I am still a huge Tamiya fan boy for reasons I can't explain. Maybe from child hood building memories.. I feel like the C hub's would be the death of me.. I am very good and not hitting anything and finish well in the top mains but If I happen to tap a board once or twice I can't risk not finishing the race. I may buy a 419X off a friend to have shortly.. |
Originally Posted by nubs
(Post 15183532)
I used to have major issues with my C-hubs but for what ever reason I no longer break them. Really the only thing I can complain about with my 419XR is the slop. The slop I am talking about is not easily remedied with shims. Specifically the vertical slop in the suspension arms. I don't know if they uses the same molds for the new material but it feels like the suspension pins don't fit as snugly as they could.
Forgot about how much slop they have.. You are right. You can shim to your hearts content but the Tamiya slop fashion will still be there. |
Originally Posted by nubs
(Post 15183532)
I used to have major issues with my C-hubs but for what ever reason I no longer break them. Really the only thing I can complain about with my 419XR is the slop. The slop I am talking about is not easily remedied with shims. Specifically the vertical slop in the suspension arms. I don't know if they uses the same molds for the new material but it feels like the suspension pins don't fit as snugly as they could.
For me it looked more like a change of concept. With the old 418 style suspension the axles had a really snug fit and they pivoted in the old style suspension balls made from steel. With the appearance of the 419x it seems, Tamiya changed the concept, how the suspension arms pivot. There's maybe a reason, why the suspension balls of the X are now made of delrin. No need of huge durability because the 419X suspension arms are pivoting around the axles. The delrin balls are now simple holders. |
Originally Posted by Tom1977
(Post 15183556)
I wondered the same, when I buildt my 419x the first time.
For me it looked more like a change of concept. With the old 418 style suspension the axles had a really snug fit and they pivoted in the old style suspension balls made from steel. With the appearance of the 419x it seems, Tamiya changed the concept, how the suspension arms pivot. There's maybe a reason, why the suspension balls of the X are now made of delrin. No need of huge durability because the 419X suspension arms are pivoting around the axles. The delrin balls are now simple holders. |
Originally Posted by nubs
(Post 15183622)
Have you noticed more issues with bending suspension shafts?? I had to replace mine last weekend.
If it's the case that the axles are more prone to bend in a crash where the suspension is involved, I would suggest to exchange the delrin balls into the old style steel balls (#53709). This should solve the bending problem. My theory is, that the delrin is to soft to take the forces in a crash in a right way. Normally in a crash the c-hubs and a-arms should brake first before everything else brake or bend. |
Originally Posted by Tom1977
(Post 15183704)
No. I only had a straight front impact which luckily only destroyed my bumper. But I heard this very often from other X-drivers.
If it's the case that the axles are more prone to bend in a crash where the suspension is involved, I would suggest to exchange the delrin balls into the old style steel balls (#53709). This should solve the bending problem. My theory is, that the delrin is to soft to take the forces in a crash in a right way. Normally in a crash the c-hubs and a-arms should brake first before everything else brake or bend. |
Guys, just had my second night of blinky racing and my car is really slow down the straight compared to the other guys.
I'm running a reds racing 13.5 on max timing which is 50 degrees running an fdr of 5.0 Car feels great other than top end speed. One of top guys there says to try a 2 teeth smaller pinion as it will allow the motor to rev up easier which kind of makes sense, but wouldn't a smaller pinion make the top speed even slower? |
If your motor is not reaching max RMP then it’s not going as fast as it can down the straight. Putting a smaller pinion will allow it to spool up more.. try it, see what happens. If it doesn’t work then try adding teeth. This is part of the game.
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Ancient Chinese proverb slow is fast ;)
Most in USGT run 3.5 fdr with 21.5 and I run 4.2 fdr and my car is very fast down the straight. As OSherman said gearing down will enable your motor to come up to speed easier. Over gearing it will not allow it to get going |
I have different experience with slop on arms. I have shimmed but during a race they sometime binds. So I decided to stay with a bit of slop, just a bit - suspension works freely.
I also prefer derlin balls as they have less slop than metal ones. Other experience - I have run on last racing days both version 419WS (13.5 blinky) and 419XR [most stiff setup] version (17.5 blinky) on black carpet. They are both great cars but still I think I have better tuned WS version. I used hard springs 3.2F and 3.0R and car feels glued to carpet still with great direct feel and steering. I also changed to 1.4 front antiroll bar and get rid of hooking. |
I was having some trouble with the car this weekend. I noticed the car had a lot of turn in and grip during left turns and just pushes pushes while making right turns. Was pretty frustrating during the track day. Everything looked good on the setup station and all my front toe, turn angle, camber and rear height was properly setup.
One thing I noticed which didnt think was possible was the rear toe. It looked like one side had more toe than the other by about 1 degree. Didnt think it was possible with solid metal suspension holders. Im not sure if thats the reasoning for my turning problems, but having different rear toe angles certainly isnt ideal. Anyone have this problem? How do you fix it? |
You have probably bended shaft or broken delrin suspension ball. It happens - even small bend makes angles different. It even possible to bend separate suspension holder which I did once.
Second - I wold check if all screws holding suspension are straight, in place and tied up. |
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