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FIBRE-LYTE
 

Received my Fibre-lite towers here in the US in just a little over a week. :D

Nice!!:nod:

Got my set too, bought all 5 items 25mm LP set and 20mm LP set and steering brace.

Here is the front 20mm LP one held in front of the kit shock tower:


http://s12.postimg.org/51jx1rvt9/201...24_resized.jpg

Without searching through all 160 pages of this thread. Can anyone tell me of has anyone else experienced problems with the "Tolerance stacking" on the TRF 418/419?? Specifically, to where not being able to to have to front axles fit and fully reach through the front knuckles and you then can not properly install the hex drive hubs?

Thanks guys.

Hi,

I have also received my LP shock towers, will be tested tomorrow ;)!looking forward to see "missing" gap covered.
Quick question: am i correct that thickness is less than 3.5mm?any special reason for it?

Thanks
Marton

Make sure you used the proper bearing on the inside steering knuckle. The outside bearing is thicker by a large margin

Hi,

I picked up a lightly used TRF419 a couple weeks back. It's my first TRF car. I re built it and raced it at the weekend. Looking to make some changes to the car for the next outing to make it easier to drive.

I'm hoping somebody can explain to me how the Tamiya suspension blocks work. I have read the Andrew Kuntze article however I don't fully understand how the graph's work. Also, a couple of the blocks are not on there.

I apologise if this has been asked before and answered but I've been searching Google for a wee while now and that article above is the only real information I could find.

I am running currently:

Front Outside - 1C
Front Inside - C

Rear Inside - X
Rear Outside - 1F

I would like to be able to work out other combinations too.


Thanks,
Martin

Thank you Juan! That was indeed what was overlooked. Thats what happens when I let my 16 year old son build my touring car for me. He tends to rush things and overlook details.

[QUOTE=Mart1993;14397483]Hi,

I picked up a lightly used TRF419 a couple weeks back. It's my first TRF car. I re built it and raced it at the weekend. Looking to make some changes to the car for the next outing to make it easier to drive.

I'm hoping somebody can explain to me how the Tamiya suspension blocks work. I have read the Andrew Kuntze article however I don't fully understand how the graph's work. Also, a couple of the blocks are not on there.

I apologise if this has been asked before and answered but I've been searching Google for a wee while now and that article above is the only real information I could find.

I am running currently:

Front Outside - 1C
Front Inside - C

Rear Inside - X
Rear Outside - 1F

I would like to be able to work out other combinations too.


Your C-C front blocks mean your running even width at the hinge pins. If you put a D at the front Outside you would have +(.5) degrees of sweep.

The rear of your car is X-F which translates to 3 degrees of rear toe. If you wanted to go to 2.5 degrees of rear toe. You have (2) options. Change the F block to a E block or change the X block to a XA block. Either way will reduce your total toe in.

Most use B-B or C-C up front

Rear XB-D which gives you 3 degrees or XA-E which also gives 3 degrees

-XB, -XA, (X) represents 0, A, B, C, D, E, F

Hope this helps

Toe Block Guide for TRF Cars
 

Here is a good source for understanding the blocks better.

Thanks for the replies guys.

To be honest, I still don't fully understand it although both those replies have helped a bit. I will keep going over it and hopefully the more I work on the car the more I will understand it better.

Thanks again.

Hi,

Can you pls post your setup sheet to have a good starting base?
I just installed the new LP towers with mini big bore dampers and didnt find my car consistent. I am not sure what went wrong but sure I need to test the car with this lower setting a lot more.

I filled dampers with 350 oil (3 holes) and used HPI silver springs and missed traction. I was not able to install yokomo blue due to ride hight issue (it didnt go below 5.5mm). With MM pink silvers (all around) was ok, but slow.
I am sure it is a good improvement but need to find the settings for it :-) which I was very close with KIT one, after 1 year test :D.
My biggest issue with the car was it pushed all the time, which was very strange (silver-silver) then with pink-silver it went ok, later I adjusted rear block to 2 degree and that was too much.
I think for this set up the key is to find the good spring...

Thanks
Marton

Hi,

I just remeasured what caused ride high issue over the weekend with yokomo springs on LP shock tower settings. My yokomo spring is 25.5mm as a result rear ride high is 5.8mm minimum...hpi silver, xgear springs are 24.8-25mm long which enable to have 4.5mm minimum.
Rear setting: block x-d, hole 4.

Did anyone had similar experience? Front was ok.

Thx

Which LP Shock Towers you have? Fibre-Lyte Low 25mm or Super Low 20mm design or something else?