The grip, particularly on the Saturday, was higher than in Czech (warmer conditions etc as well as different under carpet surface)
We had the same thing last year, the extra grip reduced steering in Germany.
Sure it isn't as high as the new CRC carpet, but when running open Mod, boosted with 30m+ straight you're going to want turn in ;)

You can only run an LTC-R if you have plenty of grip (on carpet at least)

Hey,

My advise would be as follow:
- change front suspension spacer from 2.5 to 1mm --> will turn the car much quicker
- front stabilizator shouldnt be touched in my opinion, stay with KIT:1.3, play only in the reat: try 1.3/1.4 (yokomo)
- try yok blue spring all around/Much more pink spring
- 450/400 oil, with 1-2mm rebound all around, 3 piston holes
- body: LTCR

with 17.5t motor I would go max 2.5 degree in pivot block, general starting point would be 2 degree for me. you need speed, 3 degree locks the car a lot and motor doesnt have that much power to compensate. how other guys going in the rear?

What I have experienced, with "F" block there is enough traction, so set up of camber angle of 2 degree not sure needed, Front -1.8, rear -1.5 might be also an improvement, however this is what I would change last. If you move rear pivot blocks 2 degree ("D" instead of "F") I also suggest to move camber angle 2 degree all around.
Rest looks ok to me.

hope it helps. I also posted one of my stock setup sheet couple of pages before, it works really great for me. 0.2second/lap, 4-5mp per 5 minute race behind X-ray/Yokomo top guys. next weekend I will test the LP shock towers, which just arrived :-). Hope I will be able to close this gap with that.

I recommend no aluminum C hubs because a crash and those things are useless. Those things only deform all too easily.

I use only this TA05 C hubs even at mega chrashes no demage and a little play is no problem :nod:

I have used the Square hubs. They are superb and very strong (That's why they cost 3 times as much) The issue is that they are 5 degrees so I ended up going back to the plastic ones for a little more turn in.

As an aside. Does anyone know the distance in width between each of the Tamiya Suspension blocks? I.e if I go from C-C front to B-B front how much more narrow will the car be.

Thanks

About 1mm assuming we're talking about 1B/1C holders.

Cheers :) I always thought it was 0.5mm wider on each side (hence 1mm) but it seems to be a little less (0.4mm-0.375) Maybe I need to re-calibrate my verniers.

Get two of the old style single piece holders lined up next to each other and the difference is going to be about 1mm if they're one size apart.

Just tried the rc racer xtra low shock towers with my vbc shocks and these shock are slightly too long . But perfect with the first low shock towers rc racer did. Also recommend the radtec alu chassis been using it now for 3 months and it's still dead flat. And works really well on med / high grip tracks.

hello,

I am running 10.5 motor in stock class.
Do you think it will be better with the aluminium chassis for carpet than the with carbon ?

I read the aluminium is better for mod class !

thank's

The alu chassis is good if your getting grip roll lower centre of gravity. Also it makes the car smoother / less reactive / generate less grip. Also if your having to add a lot of weight , it weighs about 35 gms more than the carbon chassis.

Thank's :nod:

For Aluminum Chassis, I like the idea of the Samix one with the battery holder cradles parts and the optional battery stopper front and rear parts.

Is it still a good moment to get the 419? or a new chassis is coming out soon?

man, I saw you guys talking about c-hubs.
Today, I broke 4 c hubs on a asphalt track this morning.
A light tap on the wooden board, and bye bye C hub.
My 419 has been on track for about 40 hours, so far, I have replaced front drive shafts*2 pair = $40, spec R DCJ drive shafts = 40, 4 pair graphite c hubs=$28, 3 pair plastic c hubs = $14.

On the other hand, My T4 only needed 16 dollars spent for replacement parts so far and it has been on track for 16 hours.

I am really scared of driving my 419 at the moment, it just seems to hard to drive.
It is more like a mental thing, I have to be 1000% concentrate to drive 419 cuz I am just afraid to break thing...

40 Hours on your TRF419? That breakage would not be bad then. That means you have run 6 minutes practice or qualifier or main races like 400 times this year.