This is my last Setup on Carpet in April this year.
Very nice driving.

I'm running a Tamiya Red O-ring and 3000 Arrowmax diff oill. When I originally built it with these, it would leak a little through the diff cups. I cleaned the diff parts and used the exact same o-ring and oil and rebuilt it very carefully. I didnt really oil the o rings, they had the slightest amount of oil so that they werent dry. Maybe that was the key. Time will tell how it holds up, its been about 9 days and I have run the car several times and still no leakst

I'm about to build a brand new TRF419, so I've been watching this thread looking to avoid pitfalls in the initial build.

For those with leaking diff problems, have you tried using an O-ring lubricant that slightly expands the rubber like Molykote 55? On my Awesomatix cars I let my O-rings soak in this stuff for a day or two before I assemble the diff or dampers, and no leakage.

I'm extremely experienced in building kits, but if anyone has any build tips specific to the 419 feel free to throw them my way. Would like to take advange of the experience here rather than learn the hard way on my own if possible :D

The O rings swell when they come in contact with the diff oil after a short time. Bad thing about the swollen o ring is it will create drag in the drive train slowing your car. Good thing is it prevents oil from leaking keeping your diff relatively full of oil so you don't have to rebuild it as often.

The TRF drivers rebuild their diffs a lot. When they rebuild they go as far as weighing the diff as they put diff oil in it so each time they rebuild they know they have the same amount of oil in it every time for consistent performance.

does anyone make a carbon battery holder for the 419 like the xray holder so you don,t need tape thanks

Don't ream the arms. No matter how sticky they are. The arms are no supposed to rotate on the pins, the pins rotate in the mounts. Despite what the book says, I wouldn't shave the arms - shim to suit.

Use loctite on BA34 and the spool. If either come loose later it's hard to tell and/or get at.

Pay attention to the axel ring orientation. If reversed they can (not so much in stock) come off mid run.

Use 3x8mm screw and a 1mm spacer into K3. They come loose too easy with 6mm.

Okay how about is there any Aluminum parts made by Tamiya or aftermarket for the following on the 419?

54580 C Hubs

54568 Steering Blocks

Square do some nice C-hubs but they are 5 degrees not 4 so you have to tweak your settings.

I have a brand new 419 for sale in the for sale section with the square de c hubs and extra parts, hiro Seiko screws etc etc

These are so annoying to even install on the drive shaft universals to keep the pin held in place. Any ideas on this or Orings anyone using?


EDIT: I used the smaller ones on the rears, so when they were all beside each other for looking at them in thinking for the fronts then I seen the differences and also the part codes in the manual. It's not too bad now.


http://www.t2shop.de/WebRoot/Store19...01CLV2_l_m.jpg

Thank you very much; exactly the sort of tips I was looking for. After every car I've ever built there's always something I wish I'd known before I started.

Some guys use shrink tube to hold the pin in place on the universals. There's enough space with the kit c-hubs.

what page are the pictures/highlights?

I'd figure I ask here but it should be the same (I have a 418). Does anyone make a hard bumper that is a direct fit?

Was gunna order a 419 today......seen price......decided that there I no way I'm spending $800 on a roller......damn xray is cheaper......not cool Tamiya....disappointed that I can no longer afford to run you cars.