STOCK motor forum
08-18-2004, 08:30 PM
#1861
Originally posted by Slider
etzkev I gotta agree with you on all the points you made except one.
I run monsters in stock with putnam brushes (green blue combo) with purple/ red springs, and I get ridiculous life out of them. The only putnam brush I've ever burnt was when a bearing collapsed in my TC3. Usually i replace the putnams when they get so short that I think they are significantly affecting the spring tension or starting to cock in the brush hoods.
I don't use any com drops, and simply clean the com with a com stick lightly between races. I usually only cut them every 8 - 10 runs as they don't seem to lose any significant power untill at least 10 runs. i have reserrated them before but I'm not convinced this is necessary if they are already well seated to the com.
As for how fast they are, I'm no A main driver but I'm very rarely outdone for motor speed anywhere on the track. And I often tune motors for a couple of friends who are A main drivers at a National Level here in Australia.
I recommend the green blue Putnam combo for all the stock racers at my local club. I just make sure they use relatively heavy springs (red/red minimum) and don't use straight greens.
i don't know how this translates to other stock motor though as I've been using Monsters pretty much exclusively of late. I am going to start playing with an MVP in the next couple of weeks though, it will be interesting to see how it compares.
etzkev I gotta agree with you on all the points you made except one.
I run monsters in stock with putnam brushes (green blue combo) with purple/ red springs, and I get ridiculous life out of them. The only putnam brush I've ever burnt was when a bearing collapsed in my TC3. Usually i replace the putnams when they get so short that I think they are significantly affecting the spring tension or starting to cock in the brush hoods.
I don't use any com drops, and simply clean the com with a com stick lightly between races. I usually only cut them every 8 - 10 runs as they don't seem to lose any significant power untill at least 10 runs. i have reserrated them before but I'm not convinced this is necessary if they are already well seated to the com.
As for how fast they are, I'm no A main driver but I'm very rarely outdone for motor speed anywhere on the track. And I often tune motors for a couple of friends who are A main drivers at a National Level here in Australia.
I recommend the green blue Putnam combo for all the stock racers at my local club. I just make sure they use relatively heavy springs (red/red minimum) and don't use straight greens.
i don't know how this translates to other stock motor though as I've been using Monsters pretty much exclusively of late. I am going to start playing with an MVP in the next couple of weeks though, it will be interesting to see how it compares.
Haha, I really don't have much experience with Putnams, and didn't say anything about them. 
I think that was TexRacer. I'll eventually try some Putnams because I know they are fast and I got a few friends who run for Putnam Propulsion...so maybe they will let me try some out. 
-Kevin
08-18-2004, 09:46 PM
#1863
08-18-2004, 11:12 PM
#1864
Tech Initiate
etzkev:
Just wanted to point out that with proper set up the putnam green brushes aren't a bad choice even for budget conscious racing. Just don't run green/green!
If you haven't tried them yet give them a go, i've tried just about every brush I can get my hands on and run the putnams pretty much exclusively at the moment.
Just wanted to point out that with proper set up the putnam green brushes aren't a bad choice even for budget conscious racing. Just don't run green/green!
If you haven't tried them yet give them a go, i've tried just about every brush I can get my hands on and run the putnams pretty much exclusively at the moment.
08-18-2004, 11:27 PM
#1865
Originally posted by Slider
etzkev:
Just wanted to point out that with proper set up the putnam green brushes aren't a bad choice even for budget conscious racing. Just don't run green/green!
If you haven't tried them yet give them a go, i've tried just about every brush I can get my hands on and run the putnams pretty much exclusively at the moment.
etzkev:
Just wanted to point out that with proper set up the putnam green brushes aren't a bad choice even for budget conscious racing. Just don't run green/green!
If you haven't tried them yet give them a go, i've tried just about every brush I can get my hands on and run the putnams pretty much exclusively at the moment.
I was just at a race this weekend, and a buddy af mine was doing exactly that - running putnam greens. This was on a Monster-based stock and he TQ'd AND GOT THE WIN in the main.
Go figure... all I know is, is that the Putnam brushes are the "DU-DU", AND I'M GET'N ME SOME.
- jaybEE
08-18-2004, 11:32 PM
#1866
Slider - I asume you mean "don't use green/green springs"? Nobody runs that for TC anyway, for 1/12th green/green or green/blue springs works great though.
As far as the putnam green brushes I like them alot, they last a long time and give good power. I run them on both the + and - and they work great. The comm wear is a little higher then 767's but not too bad. As long as you have a comm lathe who cares.
As far as the putnam green brushes I like them alot, they last a long time and give good power. I run them on both the + and - and they work great. The comm wear is a little higher then 767's but not too bad. As long as you have a comm lathe who cares.
Last edited by fatdoggy; 08-18-2004 at 11:43 PM.
08-18-2004, 11:44 PM
#1867
Tech Initiate
fatdoggy:
I mean't budget conscious racers shouldn't use Putnam Green Brushes on the + and -. With a Putnam Green on the + and a blue on the - you'll get just as much power as green on both and much better brush life.
JayBee:
i agree Putnams are where its at! Has your friend tried putting a putnam blue on the -. i played around with them on a friends dyno and found that I could get the same power using a blue on the - with much less wear on both the com and the brush. Usually going up one spring grade on each side from what you would usually run with other brushes combined with a Putnam Green on + and a Blue on - gave the best results, for monsters anyway.
I mean't budget conscious racers shouldn't use Putnam Green Brushes on the + and -. With a Putnam Green on the + and a blue on the - you'll get just as much power as green on both and much better brush life.
JayBee:
i agree Putnams are where its at! Has your friend tried putting a putnam blue on the -. i played around with them on a friends dyno and found that I could get the same power using a blue on the - with much less wear on both the com and the brush. Usually going up one spring grade on each side from what you would usually run with other brushes combined with a Putnam Green on + and a Blue on - gave the best results, for monsters anyway.
08-18-2004, 11:56 PM
#1868
Originally posted by Slider
JayBee:
i agree Putnams are where its at! Has your friend tried putting a putnam blue on the -. i played around with them on a friends dyno and found that I could get the same power using a blue on the - with much less wear on both the com and the brush. Usually going up one spring grade on each side from what you would usually run with other brushes combined with a Putnam Green on + and a Blue on - gave the best results, for monsters anyway. [/B]
JayBee:
i agree Putnams are where its at! Has your friend tried putting a putnam blue on the -. i played around with them on a friends dyno and found that I could get the same power using a blue on the - with much less wear on both the com and the brush. Usually going up one spring grade on each side from what you would usually run with other brushes combined with a Putnam Green on + and a Blue on - gave the best results, for monsters anyway. [/B]
THANKS DUDE, keep us posted on other pointers that you've found with stock motors......
- jaybee
08-19-2004, 12:40 AM
#1869
I have tried it, I dont like it in my stock motors. I run that in my Chameleon 2 motors though because it holds up better through the run and they wont fade.
For Stock I run green green to maximum performance possible. Yes you may be able to "almost" get the same power, but I have found on a turbo dyno that my motor worked best with putnam greens and red/red springs. Those were tweaked and measuered with a fiddle stick. I just dont remember what the numbers were but I think they were along the lines of 6.5 FS units on the positive, and the neg was 6.0 FS units.
I was geared at a 5.7 Final Drive ratio. And to let everyone know this track was BIG! There is the motor setup that had so many people at the this particular race asking. Oh and one other thing, I got 8 runs easy on putnam greens and com looked like it was barly broken after each run. Com was only skimmed (very lightly) once in 8 runs. I havent dynoed it yet, but it's fast, thats all I know. the fastest lap that I know of in 19T was a 18.3 and I pulled an 18.8 in stock on a huge track where 19t's overall horsepower would prevail.
-Korey
For Stock I run green green to maximum performance possible. Yes you may be able to "almost" get the same power, but I have found on a turbo dyno that my motor worked best with putnam greens and red/red springs. Those were tweaked and measuered with a fiddle stick. I just dont remember what the numbers were but I think they were along the lines of 6.5 FS units on the positive, and the neg was 6.0 FS units.
I was geared at a 5.7 Final Drive ratio. And to let everyone know this track was BIG! There is the motor setup that had so many people at the this particular race asking. Oh and one other thing, I got 8 runs easy on putnam greens and com looked like it was barly broken after each run. Com was only skimmed (very lightly) once in 8 runs. I havent dynoed it yet, but it's fast, thats all I know. the fastest lap that I know of in 19T was a 18.3 and I pulled an 18.8 in stock on a huge track where 19t's overall horsepower would prevail.
-Korey
08-19-2004, 01:19 AM
#1870
Tech Initiate
Sushi Boy:
I'm interested in whether you tweaked the red springs to be stiffer on the positive or weaker on the negative? I don't have my fiddlestick yet, it should be here next week. I've just been using un tweaked springs and found that most of the time a purple on + and a red on - was best.
I'd be interested to see how much performance varied at the end of a run (ie when the motor has reached the highest temp it would during a race) with your lighter red/red springs versus my heavier purple/red. My motors are always strong at the end of a race and I always attributed this to my spring combo being slightly heavier than most peoples.
As for using Green/Green brushes I might have to do a little more experimenting with this. When I last had access to a dyno I found that I got exactly the same power with the green/blue brushes as the green/green. If you can get more using greens alone I might have to play with this a bit for big meets, you can never have too much power!
I'm interested in whether you tweaked the red springs to be stiffer on the positive or weaker on the negative? I don't have my fiddlestick yet, it should be here next week. I've just been using un tweaked springs and found that most of the time a purple on + and a red on - was best.
I'd be interested to see how much performance varied at the end of a run (ie when the motor has reached the highest temp it would during a race) with your lighter red/red springs versus my heavier purple/red. My motors are always strong at the end of a race and I always attributed this to my spring combo being slightly heavier than most peoples.
As for using Green/Green brushes I might have to do a little more experimenting with this. When I last had access to a dyno I found that I got exactly the same power with the green/blue brushes as the green/green. If you can get more using greens alone I might have to play with this a bit for big meets, you can never have too much power!
08-19-2004, 11:37 AM
#1871
I just went and checked my motors springs and indeed they were 6.5 FS units on the positive and 6.0 on the negative. I lost alot of my punch when I went to a stiffer spring. As per big Jim, stiffer springs act like a drag brake, makes the motor heat up more, and ends up slowing the motor down anyways. My lap times were very consistant from the beginning to the end and the motor felt the same after the peak went off the batteries (which is normal). Yes, you should be able to use green/green and get increased power. That is all from my past experiences and some team putnam guys have told me, and on a turbo dyno. hope this helps ya out!
08-19-2004, 04:08 PM
#1872
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
I just went and checked my motors springs and indeed they were 6.5 FS units on the positive and 6.0 on the negative. I lost alot of my punch when I went to a stiffer spring. As per big Jim, stiffer springs act like a drag brake, makes the motor heat up more, and ends up slowing the motor down anyways. My lap times were very consistant from the beginning to the end and the motor felt the same after the peak went off the batteries (which is normal). Yes, you should be able to use green/green and get increased power. That is all from my past experiences and some team putnam guys have told me, and on a turbo dyno. hope this helps ya out!
I just went and checked my motors springs and indeed they were 6.5 FS units on the positive and 6.0 on the negative. I lost alot of my punch when I went to a stiffer spring. As per big Jim, stiffer springs act like a drag brake, makes the motor heat up more, and ends up slowing the motor down anyways. My lap times were very consistant from the beginning to the end and the motor felt the same after the peak went off the batteries (which is normal). Yes, you should be able to use green/green and get increased power. That is all from my past experiences and some team putnam guys have told me, and on a turbo dyno. hope this helps ya out!
Thanks,
Kevin
08-26-2004, 06:07 PM
#1873
Tech Initiate
i just bought some epic replacement armatures for a couple of my older practice motors. I'm just wondering if anyone knows whether the standard replacement arms sold by trinity/epic are balanced?
I bought 4 arms and none of them has any drill balancing holes at all. They're the roar legal arms so none of them is epoxied, which I take it means they are unbalanced.
I can't see all four of them being perfect naturally balanced arms when they are sold as standard replacements not even pro spec arms.
I bought 4 arms and none of them has any drill balancing holes at all. They're the roar legal arms so none of them is epoxied, which I take it means they are unbalanced.
I can't see all four of them being perfect naturally balanced arms when they are sold as standard replacements not even pro spec arms.
08-28-2004, 10:02 AM
#1874
Hey guys,
I got a quick question. Epic makes two non quad magnet stock motors. One is called the "Epic ROAR Stock Motor" and the other is the "Epic Stock Motor". Which one is the binary arm in a monster can? And I'm guessing the other is basically a monster?
Thanks,
Kevin
I got a quick question. Epic makes two non quad magnet stock motors. One is called the "Epic ROAR Stock Motor" and the other is the "Epic Stock Motor". Which one is the binary arm in a monster can? And I'm guessing the other is basically a monster?
Thanks,
Kevin
