C@T

Got mine out for a first track test today.

Still have a big smile on my face. That beast is really handling great right out of the box. By far the best kit I´ve tested. Planted and easy to drive. What a base for fine tuning.

My setup:

- Tenshock X812L 2150 K/V
- 15 teeth pinion
- 4s1p Lipo, 30C, 5000 mA/h
- Tekin RX8 gen2 ESC
- PMT M03 tyre front/rear
- ride height front: 10 mm; rear 12 mm

Even with the small pinion the car was fast enough. Did not try more not to kill the battery in the first test runns. 30C seems to be to low for track racing when you push hard. Running time was in between 10 and 15 minutes.

Also used PMT M05 with same result: car planted and easy to drive.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

^^^ Great to hear!


I still have some work to do before I can run mine. Tires have been mounted, wheels balanced, all wired up, just waiting for the batteries and the Paint....

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

So what's the deal in this car? Roller kit with body and no electronics? Or is there's a rtr version? Just want one to drive around, since there's no class in my area.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Currently the kit is offered as a roller with clear body (as I bought), and a RTR.

The RTR has been listed on Tower Hobbies site and looks to be available now (limited quantities)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEFWM&P=ML


The Roller is available now at Nitro house.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/OFNA-18-X3...t_p_16853.html

blankenj99

w w w.amain.com/product_info.php/cPath/1389_1393_1856_2382/products_id/236591/n/EcoPower-Electron-4S-Li-Poly-35C-Hard-Case-Battery-Pack-148V-4100mAh-ROAR-Approved[/url]

These 4s packs from a-main also fit with room to spare...

C@T

4s 4100 mAh will severely limit the runntime.

I currently use 4s 5000 mAh 30C 540g quality packs I had in stock, seeing a runntime of around 12 minutes on a racetrack. Looking for more.

Still using the smallest pinion (15T) I´ve. The batteries get hot. 40c+ is my recomendation. Weight balance wit 540g batteries is ok, but I will try stay under 700g.

This car is going damned fast and having fun will result in rapid draw a lot of power.

Lessons learned from a full day of testing:

Put Loctide on each an every screw not screwed into palastic, even on the one holding the main gear.

Only exception are those holding the wheels, you´ll never get those off. Tighten them strongly and look for serated nuts asap.

To go fast you need a really quick servo and all the expo you have.

Beside that the car is a great performer and funn to drive.

Loocking foreward to do some more testing over the weekend.

C@T

Another day having fun on the track, doing some more testing.
Adjusted rear camber setting to - 2° finally, front 0°. Playing with the inner position of the upper arm did not really show an advantage, looking for more rear grip out of narrow corners. So I ended up where I started, in the original position.

Has anybody found a setup sheet ?

The biggest “Problem” the car has out of the box is that the rear dog bones a short by 5 mm.

Accelerating out of a narrow corner might end up with a 3WD car and some searching for the lost dog bone. Quick fix is to put a 3 mm piece of hard foam in each drive cup to keep them centered.

As the car is running fine it is time to look for more power and speed by going for a battery pack with more mAh and C.

Those are the candidates I´ve found so far:
- Trinity REVTECH Formula X 4S Li-Poly 100C 6950mAh
- Trinity Titanium 5600mAh, 14.8v, 4s, Racing Li-Po Battery
- Team Orion 4S "Carbon Pro" 90C Li-Poly Battery Pack 14.8V/6400mAh
Any experience, or recommendation ?

SouthFloridaApp

iTrader: (6)

I would look into SMC or Pro-Match batteries... I would try to get over 7000 mah. You may be able to purchase separate packs such as 2 2s batteres and wire them up in series. I do not know what your battery tray looks like. The positive to the latter is if one battery goes bad you can just purchase one other 2s battery... The loss is cut in half. The negative to this is that you have more wires and more things to go wrong. I do like inboard batteries. Some manufacturers make them with 4mm and some make them with 5mm.. I think Pro-match is 5mm. It's best to get one type and be done with it should you decide that route... I think I will eventually go with a 6S setup and a 1300-1400KV motor. Many have said that it runs cooler and is more efficient.... Just curious, what is the weight of this car ready to run?

C@T

The ready to run weight of my car is 3.740 kg with a 540g battery.

You might be able to get down to 3.5 kg going all in with exotic materials.

Weigth balence front/rear is 50%/50%. Left to right does show +200g on the left side.

In the next test session I´m going to play alittle with the weigt balance.

Going 6s was my plan too. Currently the car is fast enough with 4s. I have two ,one with 2150 KV and one with 2450 KV, using the slower one wih a 15T pinion, so there is enough space available before the ceeling is reached.

30C on the battery pack is the limiting factor not allowing a big gear change without heating the battery to too much. Runtime is 12 minutes what is ok with 5000 mAh..

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Reading about the dog bones issues makes me think I should just upgrade the rear to CVDs as well. I'll try the foam or O-rings for the time being.


I received my battery packs today. They are Genace 5000mah 40c. They fil with lots of room to spare. They even fit on the side where the wires are parallel to the chassis, with out having to notch the tray for wire clearance. I'll probably run them like that as it si 5mm lower in overall height.

Just need to go get some Deans as I'm fresh out.

C@T

@ ViperZ

Really nice build loocking at the cables.

You should try to use the extra space in the battery tray to shift the battery to the inner side and foreward to give a better balance.

When are you going to hit the road. I´m very interested how the kit tyre will work for you.

-R2-

iTrader: (4)

What is this talk about rear dog bones, I still have mine on even with droop up or down and no issues, not needing to change my car to rear cva's.

C@T

The situation is easy to proof. Just move one of the dog bones to the inside and have a look at the outside location.

You´ll find that the drive pin is very close to the edged section at the end of the drive cup.

It only takes some torque applied to snap it out.

Centering it with two pieces of rubber/hard foam does work and is a cheap solution.

A CVD axle will do the same if you like to use hop up´s, but it´s not really needed.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Thanks C@T!

It would seem it's more advantageous to keep the weight closer to center. As such the battery may be best with the wires out top. 5mm in form the sides or 5mm in from height... Maybe a wash

I picked up my Deans and hope to solder this weekend. I still need to paint up the body, but maybe soon.

I'll check the rear dogbones as you say, and add O-rings if required.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Here are some updated photos of the finished model, alongside my Traxxas Rally/GT8 car. I didn't get a chance to run it as I forgot to tape the inside of the body. Next time