LeMans LMP1: 200mm Pan Class Discussion
03-25-2014, 05:21 AM
#288
05-22-2014, 07:26 AM
#293
Just did an F1R conversion to LMP conversion last night. No pics yet, but I built a separate front end for a quick swap.
I used a TRG F103RM front bumper to replace the wing and an F103 GT arm set to replace the F104 arms. F104 king pins with 4 mm of shims below the steering knuckle and 1 mm above the knuckle. The ride height is right at 4mm up front with black springs and with the shimming on the kingpin, droop is at .5 mm. It currently has a little too much camber, but raising the center mount will cure that. The goal is 2* camber, right now it's at 3* neg. For the rear, just remove the wing and raise the axle: Done! The only thing I'm missing is a spacer for the rear of the servo mount.
I used a TRG F103RM front bumper to replace the wing and an F103 GT arm set to replace the F104 arms. F104 king pins with 4 mm of shims below the steering knuckle and 1 mm above the knuckle. The ride height is right at 4mm up front with black springs and with the shimming on the kingpin, droop is at .5 mm. It currently has a little too much camber, but raising the center mount will cure that. The goal is 2* camber, right now it's at 3* neg. For the rear, just remove the wing and raise the axle: Done! The only thing I'm missing is a spacer for the rear of the servo mount.
06-03-2014, 06:43 AM
#294
Serpent Rear Axle unit in a CRC Gen X 10 LE:
This conversion is a direct fit with the same offset as the CRC pod. The final width is right at 196mm with the SP wheels and tires mounted and the axle shimmed to center. Serpent parts needed: right outer diff half w/14mm hex drive (single M4 bolt), the diff cap, the cap pin, the rear axle (steel or aluminum), the diff adjustment nut as it is specific to the axle and the left hub w/14mm hex (single M4 bolt) with 2 X 3mm set screws. It uses the all the current CRC bearings, but does require 1 additional bearing to replace one with a flange inside the diff half. The front bearings can be shimmed to fit the wheels. You have to use 1/8 diff balls and the diff rings are a direct fit. The CRC axle is too long to use and you have to use a Serpent unit. Rear tires will have to be trued down, but not shaved to the rim to hit 4 mm ride height.
This conversion is a direct fit with the same offset as the CRC pod. The final width is right at 196mm with the SP wheels and tires mounted and the axle shimmed to center. Serpent parts needed: right outer diff half w/14mm hex drive (single M4 bolt), the diff cap, the cap pin, the rear axle (steel or aluminum), the diff adjustment nut as it is specific to the axle and the left hub w/14mm hex (single M4 bolt) with 2 X 3mm set screws. It uses the all the current CRC bearings, but does require 1 additional bearing to replace one with a flange inside the diff half. The front bearings can be shimmed to fit the wheels. You have to use 1/8 diff balls and the diff rings are a direct fit. The CRC axle is too long to use and you have to use a Serpent unit. Rear tires will have to be trued down, but not shaved to the rim to hit 4 mm ride height.
06-03-2014, 06:45 AM
#295
Just did an F1R conversion to LMP conversion last night. No pics yet, but I built a separate front end for a quick swap.
I used a TRG F103RM front bumper to replace the wing and an F103 GT arm set to replace the F104 arms. F104 king pins with 4 mm of shims below the steering knuckle and 1 mm above the knuckle. The ride height is right at 4mm up front with black springs and with the shimming on the kingpin, droop is at .5 mm. It currently has a little too much camber, but raising the center mount will cure that. The goal is 2* camber, right now it's at 3* neg. For the rear, just remove the wing and raise the axle: Done! The only thing I'm missing is a spacer for the rear of the servo mount.
I used a TRG F103RM front bumper to replace the wing and an F103 GT arm set to replace the F104 arms. F104 king pins with 4 mm of shims below the steering knuckle and 1 mm above the knuckle. The ride height is right at 4mm up front with black springs and with the shimming on the kingpin, droop is at .5 mm. It currently has a little too much camber, but raising the center mount will cure that. The goal is 2* camber, right now it's at 3* neg. For the rear, just remove the wing and raise the axle: Done! The only thing I'm missing is a spacer for the rear of the servo mount.
06-10-2014, 12:06 PM
#299
CRC conversion update: With the F104 convert ready for the track, I'm waiting for my fishing real bearings, I mean front wheel bearings, to arrive by mail. Boca makes a 10mm OD x 4mm wide x 1/8" ID bearing to help slide the front wheels right on. I now have the complete 1/4" steel axle Serpent F110 rear end in the CRC and am waiting for the bearings to show to mount the wheels on the front. I wish the left hub was clamp style instead of set screw, but it works and the axle pod offset is dead on. It'll take some rear tire truing to get down to ride height as the adjusters in the LE just don't physically allow the axle go any higher. The tires will have to be trued down 3 to 4mm to hit an acceptable ride height of 4mm or less. There will still be quite a bit of meat left on the rim. With wear so low, the tires should still last a long time. I still have under 1mm wear on my LM-1 rears. I do more damage to the tires and rims hitting stuff. Maybe the bearings will get in tomorrow.
06-10-2014, 01:05 PM
#300
CRC conversion update: With the F104 convert ready for the track, I'm waiting for my fishing real bearings, I mean front wheel bearings, to arrive by mail. Boca makes a 10mm OD x 4mm wide x 1/8" ID bearing to help slide the front wheels right on. I now have the complete 1/4" steel axle Serpent F110 rear end in the CRC and am waiting for the bearings to show to mount the wheels on the front. I wish the left hub was clamp style instead of set screw, but it works and the axle pod offset is dead on. It'll take some rear tire truing to get down to ride height as the adjusters in the LE just don't physically allow the axle go any higher. The tires will have to be trued down 3 to 4mm to hit an acceptable ride height of 4mm or less. There will still be quite a bit of meat left on the rim. With wear so low, the tires should still last a long time. I still have under 1mm wear on my LM-1 rears. I do more damage to the tires and rims hitting stuff. Maybe the bearings will get in tomorrow.
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...103CZZ31755AF2
$74.95 for a pack of four?
Or these:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...R103ZZ31755AF2
$10.95 each?