hyujmn

iTrader: (27)

You could also cut off the receiver ends and use a crimper

traitor

iTrader: (3)

Mine are white and it came from Gravity RC the beginning of janurary

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

Hi guys, so I just bought an Xray, my first . Its the T4'13 with the ECS shafts. I have been racing onroad for 8 years, so Im not going to be crashing that often. But this is a big upgrade from my TC5's ive been running for the last 5-6 years. Im fairly good with set up, so there shouldn't be too much of a problem there. Im about halfway through reading the forum pages, So I guess what Im wondering is what I should look out for and expect?

Im also curious as to what spares, if any, you guys need? I will be running 17.5 Blinky. First, I am a little confused as to all of the arm choices. Im assuming they are interchangable between sides? Also what is the difference between the 1 and 2 hole arms? Is the former an inbetween hole? And lastly do components from the T3 series like castor, steering blocks, and rear hubs bolt on to the T4 cars? I have seen the new differences between the T4 and T4'14 arms.

Im really looking forward to a a great racing car thats finally in my favorite color! haha Thanks in advance

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

If you don't crash much, don't bother with spares. Maybe some spool cups just in case. All your assumptions about arms and T3 interchange are correct.
What surface / grip level / layout complexity will you be running?

Also, there's a separate thread for the T4'13 that is still pretty active.

-Mike

Fly'n Fish

help with belts!!!! I have snaped a brand new belt after about 5 battery packs in the brand new '14. It was the back one which I though might have been on the tight side, I guess I though about it too long. Any how, what can you guys recommend on belts? I noticed some trick looking white ones in the thread a while back they have to be awesome, but what's the best and strongest and where do you get 'em!

thank you

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

I've had really good luck with the white belts. If you snapped a rear belt after 5 packs either you did something wrong, defect or something got into it. I had a screw go completely around my diff and damage the belt, but it was still functional. My point is, belts don't just break when new.

daleburr

BD7 rear belt is strong and cheap, ran one belt all of last year with no issues. The xray rear belt can be a weak point.

Front belt is usually okay as it takes less of the load under power.

daleburr

I dont think anyone ever uses the 2 hole arms, so i wouldnt worry about those. The kit 1 hole is between the 2 holes.

Kit plastics should be fine in most conditions too, unless you run in mega high grip or just have some money to burn for the graphite ones. Again no really uses the other hardnesses (other than the graphite arms).

All components are symmetrical apart from the castor blocks.

niemand

I think the problem isn't the belt, but too much tension. I have to run new belts atleast one notch looser than initial/kit setting for them not to be too tight.
The only xray belt I broke was a rear one after 130 packs (30 modified and 100 stock).

Regards,
David

chasingthepack

i snapped a rear recently but that was due to debris getting picked up and jamming in the drive teeth,also stones and sticks can get caught up under the diff and wear away at the belts,with the belt tightness,really you want them as loose as you can get them without them skipping teeth,in blinky my belts are very loose but for the faster motors they would get tightened, my belts flap about a bit but its the fastest car down the straight due to less drag,and with less drag it flows through chicanes better ,if you have ever used drag brake you can get a similar effect from overtight belts,which then can cause handling problems,such as the rear stepping out off power

Skiddins

The '14 front arms will not fit the T4'13 unless some material is filed away at the hinge pin. The mounting point for the front shock is also further forward on the '14 hinge pins

The rear arms would be fine.

The C-hubs, steering knuckles and hubs are all the same as the previous car.

Skiddins

Fly'n Fish

Thanks guys, i think that the belt was too tight and a stone or something got up into it. I have loosened the belts heaps and will see if i get belt slip, should be pretty obvious, no?

chasingthepack

place the car down and try to spin the wheels(burnout) and if you hear clicking thats the belt slipping,push the front into the ground to check the front belt,and hold the rear wing to check the rear

chasingthepack

has anyone tried to get the graphite plates to work with the 13 ? i was going to drill the arms and fit a set,they seem to line up ok and there is just enough material to drill into

Troy Carter

iTrader: (22)

I plan to update my '13 car with '14 arm and just remove the extra material on the new arms inner hinge pin to make them fit. The extra material that moves the shock forward is fine with me since I shim mine forward already. Then I can use the plates with no worries.