2LikesTamiya TRF418
04-18-2014, 12:12 PM
#901
Tech Apprentice
I didnt. But I just had all of that off the car and everything was flat. I checked it on my setup board before I put it back on. im not sure this has been an issue from the begining as i just started checking the ride height on both sides of the chassis. (Ive only ran the car two weeknds since brand new)
04-18-2014, 05:27 PM
#902
Hopefully someone can give me some pointers/advice here... all shocks are the same eye to eye, ive backed out the droop screws and disconnected the sway bars, and the chassis in ballanced left to right. But for some reason im getting a half millimeter difference from left to right with the shock collars set at the same setting left to right. Left front and rear read 6mm and right front and rear read 5.5mm. The chassis sits flat on the table.
. Used the two Hudy pivot blocks, not a fan either as it not fluid enough. I prefer using one Hudy pivot block and fishing line method. This allows Frt and Rr check as well as diagonal differences.If all is still good, then who is to say the springs are exactly the same tension. Maybe try swapping the springs around onto different corners, or another set/brand of springs, or if all else fails invest in a tweak station...
NB> If not already, you must use verniers calipers for accurate measurement of Shocks etc...
Hope this helps
Last edited by 2-Bad; 04-18-2014 at 05:42 PM.
04-18-2014, 06:57 PM
#903
Hopefully someone can give me some pointers/advice here... all shocks are the same eye to eye, ive backed out the droop screws and disconnected the sway bars, and the chassis in ballanced left to right. But for some reason im getting a half millimeter difference from left to right with the shock collars set at the same setting left to right. Left front and rear read 6mm and right front and rear read 5.5mm. The chassis sits flat on the table.
04-21-2014, 03:17 AM
#905
Hopefully someone can give me some pointers/advice here... all shocks are the same eye to eye, ive backed out the droop screws and disconnected the sway bars, and the chassis in ballanced left to right. But for some reason im getting a half millimeter difference from left to right with the shock collars set at the same setting left to right. Left front and rear read 6mm and right front and rear read 5.5mm. The chassis sits flat on the table.
04-23-2014, 12:41 AM
#906
Back in stock at RCMart now.
$550 US.
Others would likely follow shortly.
$550 US.
Others would likely follow shortly.
04-25-2014, 12:23 AM
#907
Yesterday I had time to test my 418 on our home track at RC Erdferkel (http://www.rc-erdferkel.de/).
The car was very good after small setup changes. I built in front HPI Silver and rear HPI blue. A new Mazda GX which is very neutral and looks good.
Tires I took the Ride 28 and Gear Ratio I drove 5.5 .
Next time I would change the Gear ratio to 5 or 5.2 to check the car again.
The car was very good after small setup changes. I built in front HPI Silver and rear HPI blue. A new Mazda GX which is very neutral and looks good.
Tires I took the Ride 28 and Gear Ratio I drove 5.5 .
Next time I would change the Gear ratio to 5 or 5.2 to check the car again.
04-25-2014, 05:21 AM
#908
Tech Master
Yesterday I had time to test my 418 on our home track at RC Erdferkel (http://www.rc-erdferkel.de/).
The car was very good after small setup changes. I built in front HPI Silver and rear HPI blue. A new Mazda GX which is very neutral and looks good.
Tires I took the Ride 28 and Gear Ratio I drove 5.5 .
Next time I would change the Gear ratio to 5 or 5.2 to check the car again.
The car was very good after small setup changes. I built in front HPI Silver and rear HPI blue. A new Mazda GX which is very neutral and looks good.
Tires I took the Ride 28 and Gear Ratio I drove 5.5 .
Next time I would change the Gear ratio to 5 or 5.2 to check the car again.
What turn motor are you running?
04-25-2014, 09:28 AM
#909
Tech Adept
13.5
04-25-2014, 09:50 AM
#910
Not necessarily tweaked, but because there are no locating dowels on the shock support plate or bulkheads, the four screws can not guarantee a dead accurate position, hence .5mm difference easy to appear. I would revisit the lower bulkhead screws to the chassis plate, and then tighten the four screws whilst making sure the shock support is dead straight left to right.
That said, I would also check the top shock screws are in corresponding holes on the shock support left and right. Just sayin'.
On the other hand it is amazing how Tamiya went to the length it did in some areas to give the kit a top notch standard and totally screwed up elementary (and functionally important) details like these. For a kit at this price point I think they could have replaced two of the shock support plate screws with locating dowels. Especially since the upper bulkheads are split. Same problem with the split suspension hinge pin holders, top deck, upper bulkheads (keyed, but only for show). Oh, well. There'll be a TRF418X version soon, no worries.
That said, I would also check the top shock screws are in corresponding holes on the shock support left and right. Just sayin'.
On the other hand it is amazing how Tamiya went to the length it did in some areas to give the kit a top notch standard and totally screwed up elementary (and functionally important) details like these. For a kit at this price point I think they could have replaced two of the shock support plate screws with locating dowels. Especially since the upper bulkheads are split. Same problem with the split suspension hinge pin holders, top deck, upper bulkheads (keyed, but only for show). Oh, well. There'll be a TRF418X version soon, no worries.
04-25-2014, 10:03 AM
#911
Assuming your chassis is flat, nothing is bent, shock lengths are even, shock spring collars are even, and nothing else is bound up, how have you balanced the chassis? I've used the 4 separate scale method which does your head in . Used the two Hudy pivot blocks, not a fan either as it not fluid enough. I prefer using one Hudy pivot block and fishing line method. This allows Frt and Rr check as well as diagonal differences.
If all is still good, then who is to say the springs are exactly the same tension. Maybe try swapping the springs around onto different corners, or another set/brand of springs, or if all else fails invest in a tweak station...
NB> If not already, you must use verniers calipers for accurate measurement of Shocks etc...
Hope this helps
. Used the two Hudy pivot blocks, not a fan either as it not fluid enough. I prefer using one Hudy pivot block and fishing line method. This allows Frt and Rr check as well as diagonal differences.If all is still good, then who is to say the springs are exactly the same tension. Maybe try swapping the springs around onto different corners, or another set/brand of springs, or if all else fails invest in a tweak station...
NB> If not already, you must use verniers calipers for accurate measurement of Shocks etc...
Hope this helps
Springs don't count as long as shocks are equal length. Besides, balancing the chassis doesn't have anything to do with this problem. The man complains there's more travel on one side than the other, not more load.
I used an integy balancing station or the four scale method to balance cars, but I found working by eye works just as well. Or maybe I just don't fret so much any more these days. Close enough is good enough.
04-26-2014, 01:12 AM
#912
Yes I only run 13,5 
Very intersting News from Kentech, new Chassis, Topdeck and Motor Mount.
http://kentech.blogs.se/2014/04/
Very intersting News from Kentech, new Chassis, Topdeck and Motor Mount.
http://kentech.blogs.se/2014/04/
04-26-2014, 07:24 AM
#913
Tech Master
Yep, the Samix has been in test for a while, and it looks like its been getting some very good results on asphalt. They have some other interesting things in the pipeline as well.
