cplus

iTrader: (11)

So those that have been running these for a while, what do you consider to be essential mods/hopups? And also bits and bobs to order from the get go - like additional shims/spacers perhaps?

I've got a stash of Ti screws ready to go, TRF body mounts and a bundle of 5.5mm spacers but looking for ideas of what else to add to the shopping cart to make the most of extortion level shipping costs to Aus.

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure if they are plastic or aluminum, I thought they were Aluminum but I need them to be a thin knurling so longer springs fit on my car (not Tamiya)

Just looking for some help and I thought this was the best place to ask.

picture attached for what I'm looking for

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

the thin spring adjusters come with the mini TRF shocks... might want to look for someone who has a set and replaced them with the blue ones. problem with the thin one is that there's no o-ring on it so it tends to adjust itself on bumpy tracks and crashes...

3Racing has the same kind (but with a notch)... just a thought since you'd probably have to buy a full set of shocks to get the adjusters...

Juan Aveytia

Email me your address and I'll send you a set [email protected]

JoeyE

iTrader: (45)

Juan..did you buy a 418 yet? Hows the TB04 treating you?

sosidge

Essentials in my opinion are non-bladed front spool outputs (I have the Roche ones or Tamiya did supply them with the previous 417V5), the silicone TRF diff o-rings and an extra set of thin diff shims to reshim the diff afterwards. The one-piece "top hats" for the front caster blocks are a nice option, save a lot of hassle when rebuilding. You will also need some springs, HPI Silvers and Pinks is what I have now. Tamiya's springs have too big a step between them and the kit set are quite soft.

Build is straightforward but if you put the belt tensioner on the lower deck it acts as a battery guide for the back of the pack which is otherwise missing. The front bumper is a little thicker than the chassis so I shave it down a bit to get a smooth bottom that won't fail on ride height. You might also want to stand the servo-mount Lipo mounts up and put a screw in them rather than cut them down (which was the mistake I made).

Obviously there is a huge selection of tuning parts that fit from Tamiya's past touring cars (suspension blocks, caster blocks, roll-centre spacers etc) but I have yet to find a setup that is noticeably better than the kit setup. So buy as many or as few of those parts as you want!

Juan Aveytia

I don't have any intentions of buying the 418. I've only raced once since I last saw you. I ran the TB04 at ripon. It was on pace with everyone there. But it needed a little more. I will try it one more time this Saturday at ripon. It should be really good. You going to make it?

skyball

In stock-class I actually prefer the spool outdrives with blades. Following the advice of someone here in the forum I cooked the blades before using them. Can't really tell if that makes a difference, but I replace them only every 4 to 5 races because of wear and they only break once in a while after a hard crash. But the metal parts (outdrives and drive shafts) stay intact.

With the non-bladed outdrives I had to replace the (then quite worn in) outdrives after a few races and also sometimes the drive shafts because even the pins on the shafts went flat. Maybe there's a trick that I don't know about to make the outdrives last longer, but I found that rather expensive. And I've had them all, Tamiya, Roche, 3Racing, Arena, etc...

Christian

cplus

iTrader: (11)

According to the manuals the V5 and 418 both use part number 19804512 for the spool output cups (Direct Cup in tamiya speak)

#54544 as far as I can tell are one and the same item?



I want some roche blades, I just think they look cool. Very cheap mod





These are in the tool box already from building TA06 diffs


And check, $3 for 5mm shims to the shopping cart. Ouch.


Tuber spacer? Got them from my Ta06 build. Brilliant, much better the the stock with a shim. Will re use.


Cool. HPI silver seems to come up in every review from recent times. It will be 100% asphalt running for me.

I've got a few blocks with the TA06, but typically, they pretty similar to the stock 418 (I've got two pair of 1A/1XA separates and a 1B and 1E one piece).

Also have carbon 6deg caster blocks I have never used either that will fit. They are the wide opening version too, so good for DCJ's.

Good to hear that kit settings are a very solid base.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

On the out drives, do you mean like these from roche?



And the use no blades, just steel on steel? Sounds like a recipe for wear (for me anyway!)

NickGroves

Are the black kit diff orings no good?

Qatmix

Not the best, they can leak. The red ones do not leak, and they only cost a couple of quid

Jethroz

iTrader: (54)

Went through my car yesterday and noticed my track-side adjustments over the past few weeks have basically put the car back to kit setup.

Personally, I feel the setup range is much more narrow than in previous TRF kits and fast comes with a lot more drop-off in ease of driving.

blackshark3

I changed the outdrives, the rear driveshafts and front DCS to spring steel ones

Smokem Racing

Coming soon... Some much needed flex!