Thanks for all the help on where to buy, I will check around.

What about the must haves, hop-up's, needed or is the box car ready to go?

Get some Extra springs (they have a TRF big bore spring set) and a set of roll bars (they also come in a set), unless you are able to find a first production TRF418.
Cause the first production had those as bonus parts.

Guy in SoCal F/S thread is selling a bnib 418 w/ bonus parts...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13505033-post2448.html

This question pops up all the time, and most of the time gets the same answer. How good is your driving? If you're Mark Reinhardt you could probably put a box stock TT01 on two wheels in the world finals. If you're not, how good are your driving and setup skills? That's what is going to decide your must have spares/hopups.

Oh, and try to have a look at the people you're going to race against at your local track. That might help.

I assume he is asking if there are any bits that are not good in the kit. If that's the case, then as addicted says you have everything you need in the kit. (Other than anything you want to change the set up such as diff oils, springs and roll bars)

Springs are down to what other's run at the track (HPI pink front, and silver rear for me) although others use Yok springs / ride reds etc.

As to spares, probably best get some spare C hubs / front uprights as they take the brunt I most crashes.

Yep that is what I meant. I have done on road before just never Tamiya. Only have run TC6/.1/.2 and HB TCX. I know I will need the tuning items. Is what is in the box good or are guys changing up things from the box to make the car better. When I ran TC6 we were spending another few bucks like out of the box to get the car good.

Rear belt
Cvd blades.

Apart from spur gear, oils and springs I reckon it is ready to go from the box. You could survive with the springs and oil - but you would be ready to change pretty quick. I ran them once for "fun". I don't expect it will happen again.

As far as hop ups? You don't really need any, however, there is still plenty to change!

I'll cut and paste from about 60 pages and 4months back :)

I'm running a TRF418 in 13.5t blinky, as far a changes from box stock I have the following as I wanted to build "my" ultimate 418 (based on the stock chassis anyway);

- Titanium and blue aluminium screws - they look cooler (and save a very marginal amount of weight). I even tracked down some 2.6mm x 8mm ones you don't need these to be under weight!
- TRF direct servo mount. I don't advise running one if your track has boards!
- Red Orings in the diff - not needed, but apparently leak less. Consumable item.
- 3000wt diff oil - 900 from the kit would probably be okay, but it's a consumable anyway.
- 450wt shock oil - similar to above the 400 from the kit would be okay, consumable.
- HPI Silversprings - springs are a tuning tool, and pretty much anyone and everyone is running ride red or HPI silver or close to it (on asphalt anyway), so why wouldn't i.
- TRF ball nut and titanium hollow set screws - make removing shocks ever so slightly easier to remove. Not required to go fast.
- TRF low friction damper V parts - not even the team guys bother with these, but they are a couple of bucks and I wanted to try them. Not required to go fast.
- Titanium coated suspension shafts. They dropped these from the 418 (417 had them) and again, I wanted them as part of my no compromise build. Not required to go fast.
- Blue O rings for the shocks. Apparently better than the clear ones. Consumable item again.
- Mr Roche POM C blades front and rear. They are a little harder than the stock ones and last longer. They are also pink and look cool.
- AVID bearings. I had a seal fail in one of the 1050's and it was ruined, so I replaced the lot.
- Damper spacers on the steering - purely cosmetic. No function at all.
- TRF body mounts. Mildly functional. But they look cool too.
- countersunk washers. Used on the shock towers, slightly stronger mount. MR runs like this sometimes, must be better :D
- A pair of 630 bearings - to make a low drag rear lipo stop. The kit should include this I think. $5 worth!
- new 4deg hubs. Better clearance for the DCJs. I'll be putting 6deg on with my next rebuild.
- different spur gear. No way to achieve the FDR I need for 13.5t blinky with the stock spur. 74t / 37t in 48p for me for now.
- A set of 3,4,5mm shims. I didn't use many, the keys ones are extra under the shock pistons, on the steering posts and also in the hubs.

Most of the above only cost a few bucks each (but does add up) but absolutely none of them are either required nor likely to make a novice like me any faster. I also used none of the stock grease etc - again overkill, I've got all the TRF VG greases. Makes me feel better!

Do you mean have a spare or you think the kit one is no good?

Anyone know where these can be bought stateside? The places I have found they have been out of stock. Will the Roche blades for the Yokomo fit?

I have the ARC blades on the front of my 418. They fit also, although are a bit tight. But they hold up a lot better than the stock blades.

dont think the yokomo ones will fit.

i got/get mine from smokem.

I test on medium grip carpet and the car is fast ! for the moment I run only with Tamiya motor mount but I order the samix graphite full conversion for the rest of parts....

Finally got to try our new LRP X20 4.5T motor yesterday with the Flow Works Team esc. Geared according to advice received here and esc programmed according to a Volker setup.

MAN, does that 418 travel fast. It was actually my 10 year old son, who drives that car and the speed and acceleration was considerably faster than the 6.5T motor it replaced.

We have only been driving TC for about a month, and the sheer speed still amazes us.

We come from 1/8 E buggies, which by no means are slow, underpowered cars, but a true modified TC is just exceptionally fast.

A father and his small sons with some RTR cheap cars were visiting the track to try, and their jaws dropped to the ground when the 418 took the straight within a blink of an eye.

We love it :)

Question on bearings.

How often do you replace your bearings, and which ones should I pay most attention to?

On our 1/8 E buggies, we changed bearings quite often.

What do you lube your bearings with. Can any supermarket bicycle oil be used or do I need to buy some expensive oils?