man1ac

Had the first serious ride out
Nice car (although I have no comparison ), really like it!

I think I need some upgrade parts (Collague had a TC4 and seems to have better handling with both stabilizers):

Front and rear stabilizer.
http://www.3racing.de/3Racing-Stabi-...Sakura-Zero-XI

Does these springs fit front and rear? Couldnt find any part that is for front (just one discontinued one)

What kind if stiffer springs are there? Couldnt find any either

perzeus

Those stabilizers will not fit properly. There are other ones designed for the XI sport, they are the same front and rear. You will need a mounting kit as well. Here is a page with all the compatible parts:
os.3racing.hk/car_parts.php?carkits_key=123
Although beware some need additional parts to fit. And some can be out of stock for a month or so... Springs for the original dampers are not available from 3racing, so you have to find something compatible, there were some suggestions in this thread already. I think also the shorter ones from 3racing should work.

TeamThibault

The part I was looking for was sak u113
Now they have a sak u113v2
Rcmart is where I order it from
I'm heading down to the track neXT Sunday. And looking to do some runs.
Life got in the way and haven't ran this car in a long time. . But when I did run it for the first time I pick up 5 laps. For personal best of 21 laps

man1ac

Thanks!
But Sakura themselfes list these
http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4711

as compatible with the XI (do they differ between these 2?) I tried to fit them and could not spot something that might suggest they wont be able to fit...

For mounting I need these: http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=6665 ?

Would it be this springs?
http://www.rc-race-shop.de/3-racing/...a-p-55230.html

perzeus

The XI is quite different from XI Sport and more similar to the Zero. The XI Sport is more compatible with the Ultimate. You can mount those stabilizers, but they don't fit optimally. I bought them as the correct ones where out of stock and now they just lay unused in the box. These are the correct ones:
os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=6586
The golden ones have a slightly different shape, lenght and I think also come in different thickneses.

For the spring set - best if somebody who has it could confirm they fit. I bought the yeah racing shocks that also come with a spring set, so don't use the 3racing shocks anymore.

man1ac

I need front and rear stabi's anyway, so I took the ones u linked and will fit the ones I have (better than none, I suggest!).

Could you link your spring set? I think upgrading the shocks altogether would be a option to consider...

These:
http://tamico.de/Yeah-Racing-Alu-Dae...-01-TT-02-TA05

??

perzeus

In most cases you usually use different thickness front and rear anyway, so one stabi set is enough.

I bought the shocks you linked, but in 50mm, which don't fit properly, the 55mm should fit fine. But then I bought cheap carbon shock towers from ebay, which again do not fit properly with the original shocks, but fit perfectly with the 50mm ones, with the added benefit of a lower CG. Did not try it yet though, I'm heading to the Hudy arena in the afternoon to test it out.

One more remark about SSK shafts - I bought them cause it seemed to be the must have upgrade. Recently I twisted one pretty badly so switched to the original ones an had same or better lap times. This was on a very high traction carpet, where the car has a tendency to traction roll. So in these conditions I think you can spare your money and just stick with the old shafts.

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

Maniac:
Out of the box, the sakura xi sport handles well - pink marked springs & no swaybars. The kit tires and no servo saver are likely affecting your car's handling in a way that allow a 12 year old car (TC4) to out-handle your car. HPI x-patterns on 26mm wheels are a good pavement basher tire/wheel combo. The Gravity RC/Ride/Paul Lemieux/USGT pre-mount tires on 24mm rims are another good option, which will make the car feel more race-ready.

The gold rear swaybars will work, but as Perzeus said, get the right set if you can. Also get the correct mounting kit. You may need some 1.5mm screws.


How much droop and camber are you currently running?

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

Nothing wrong with that set, though your current shocks are just as good, if not better. You can buy the Yeah Racing black TRF spring set for 7 US dollars online. This will give you something to base your setup on, as they are clones of Tamiya springs. I currently run these, as people asking for help have difficulty in translating what a 3Racing 4.5 is versus a 3Racing 7.0.

Don't get too wraped up in dumping money into a Sakura Xi sport after one day of running. Just take it slow. Enjoy the car and learn from it. If you want to spend more money right-away, go buy the Sakura Ultimate. Or just get a TRF car that these clones are based on.

man1ac

Thanks for your input. The old TC4 didnt outhandle the sakura, its just, all of the cars that run the track use swaybars front and rear and have a way way more stiffer setup. So thats why I'd like to adapt to their settings

I have a servo saver installed and used Schumacher Sorex 28R tires with adhesive (called hat way?). So based on this I had the same setup as the TC4.
I was even faster than the TC but this was caused by his 17.5T Motor and my 10.5T

Its a very small track, so the 17.5 is fast enough, but out of the corners the 10.5 just blew the 17.5 away

I think instead of spending more on the dampers, I a going with 40wt in front and 60wt in the rear - so I'll get a bit stiffer compared to 30wt front and rear

perzeus

Completely agree - don't spend too much money on this chassis. Enjoy the ride and learn to set it up. A good setup will take you much further than all the hop ups combined. A weak point of all the Sakuras is actually the lack of setups. You basically won't find any except the basic one, which is for asphalt. However this forces you to really learn how to set it up. Play around with droop, camber, shock positions to start with. It can make a world of a difference.

And the yeah racing shocks are cca same as the original ones quality wise. They use different mounting balls which kind of feel very stiff, they don't move around as freely as the original ones. I actually just bought them to have shocks with different oils to try out and switch back and forth at the track.

man1ac

Totally agree
For getting to know the car and get some options I "just" added:

front diff (this is more to understand whats the difference in driving)
swaybars
aluminium steering (recommendation here and from the shop)

The first thing I did noticewhen driving, the rear likes to get sloppy at high speed wide corners...especially when the tires started to show some lack of grip

Dont get me wrong, but I'd rather spent money on the sakura to understand basic setup options as to buy a TC6.2 or TC7. If I want to tune these much more expensive cars, new shocks wont cost 28€ combined, the cost 30 bucks each
I wont ever ever start racing TC more serious because there are literally no tracks around in my area and my main track is offroad.

So the TC is just for the kicks of having fun with a few friends once in a while.
I chose the electronics (10.5T and 120A Trackstar so I can easily swap them into a buggy (want to buy a Mid Motor or 4WD, or 2nd for my girlfriend)) - so no money lost here.

Mudster

iTrader: (3)

I agree with you Perzeus, on the idea of learning to set up your car.
I tried everywhere to get the 3 racing springs set, which are not available anywhere. So I use Yokomo BD5/7 springs as they are easy to get anywhere . I am using the stock shocks which I find are fine.

man1ac

Had the setup station from a friend, so I could measure and define everything. Did everything according to 0000000's setup sheet. After remounting the tires I noticed every plastic wheel adapter is broken...Anyone experienced something like this? Due to its every, I think some kind of material problem?

Should I switch to aluminium?

Had a quick garage run and the car seems to be so much smoother and more solid to drive. WOW! Wouldnt have guessed that...1 mistake was the front toe in was a bit more than 2° (reduced it to 1°). I think thats why the front right tire hat more wear after the first drive.

Cant wait to get back to track

(0000000000)

iTrader: (2)

A cracked wheel adapter will not affect performance. It should be fine. So long as the pin catches on the inside and the wheel catches on the outside, it will be fine.

Personally, I have switched to aluminum wheel adapters long ago.