Troy Carter

iTrader: (22)

Kind of. Well, I've changed rotors but not for different track conditions or layouts just to get the power smoothed out for my driving. I run on a larger outdoor track and use the LRP X12 4.5t which is a bit of a monster in the low to mid rpm range. I ran it last year with the stock 12.5mm rotor. This year I changed to the 12.0mm rotor and it's much smoother with more top end power. Definitely a great change for my track and my driving on the infield.

SamuraiJack

iTrader: (41)

Anyone wanna talk specifically about what types of braking-related adjustments they made to deal with all the speed/power of modified setup (EXPO on transmitter, ESC brake settings, other)?

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I think between 10 and 25 on drag brake is pretty standard. I turn my push brake all the way up in the esc and then get the amount of brake I want on the radio. I don't use any expo or abs etc.

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply.
Exactly what I was thinking. I'm looking for a smooth power delivery off the corner in the infield. The track I race on is huge and unprepared and putting the power down from a 4.5 Reedy is a challenge.

SamuraiJack

iTrader: (41)

How do you get it on the radio? Throw?

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

On a ko it's brake travel or EPA.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

On my Eurus I think its called brake high point. Of course it differs for every radio. On mine on med grip carpet I set the esc to 100% and calibrate the esc with the brake highpoint set to 100. Then I turn it down to 80-85% usually.

SamuraiJack

iTrader: (41)

Travel, that's what I meant, yes. But if you only decrease travel, then you eliminate your max brake % right? I guess if your racing if you a braking 100% you are also losing

SamuraiJack

iTrader: (41)

Would anyone like to provide some tips on keeping a TC straight while blazing down straight-a-ways? Thoughts that come to my novice mind:
- how to absolutely center servo arm
- minimize play in steering
- minimize chatter
- toe seems to have some affect? depending on grip?

BC2G

what kind of set up are you running? what size motor?

hyujmn

iTrader: (27)

Toe can make a huge difference. On my car, my rear toe was super off (4 vs 2) and it would cause my car to dart one direction on throttle. Once I fixed that, it helped a ton.

But the number one thing I noticed about getting and keeping the car straight is... The driver! Mod cars have so much power that if you're exiting a corner and you haven't straightened out for the straight, it's really easy to hit a board. I still suck at mod, but I try to not get on throttle until my car has pointed straight.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

For centering the steering, on a fresh build, I eyeball everything first to get it close. Then I mess with servo position vs. steering linkage length to find the setup that gives the most even EPAs. Then I measure the tie-rods to make sure they're exactly the same length. Then I put the car on the setup station, center everything by eye, and set camber. Camber has a big effect on toe. Toe has a smaller affect on camber. Then I turn on my radio and adjust sub trim so the toe reading is the same left and right, then re-check camber. Then I set my actual toe and re-check camber again. Then I turn the wheel to each side and check the toe at maximum lock, and adjust EPAs to get them even.

Minimizing play in steering really depends on the car, I think. The plastic bag trick can work well if the ballcups are loose.

You shouldn't have chatter in a straight line.

You didn't mention suspension tweak, which is really, really important. With the amount of toe and camber we usually run, if there's a suspension tweak it will load the tires very differently in a straight line, and make the car pull.

Along those lines, left/right weight balance and droop accuracy are also important, because they can create or mask a suspension tweak.

More front droop can also make the car less sensitive to suspension tweaks and track surface irregularities.

Sometimes the track will just have funky slopes and irregularities, though, and you just have to learn how the car is going to pull at different spots and compensate for it.

-Mike

SamuraiJack

iTrader: (41)

Spec-r S-1 w/13.5 and 5.54 fdr Savox SC-0254mg.

Thanks, lots of stuff to check.

EXPO on steering?

Also, I think I am noticing variation in how the steering comes back to center after turning.

Bishop

iTrader: (5)

I actually did some driving for the first time last night with a 5T and boosted Tekin, did so on my home track which is a rather large nitro track, was crazy fast, played with some less or no boost profiles, they did not seem to really give the speed I felt I would need.

Got to say driving a boosted car is like nothing else, any setting you throw on the car seems somewhat overwhelmed by the level of power, can't say I think it was an ounce faster than I get round the track with a blinky 10.5T, but it looks way more impressive.

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

Driving MOD your setup needs to dead on... Right balance all the way around or you will be all over the place... On breaking I usually set the drag break really high without over heating the motor and then turn down the break highpoint on my radio to about 75%-80% enough to stop the car without locking the wheels... Drag break is your friend in MOD it is alot easier to drive the car in the corners... On throttle I set the travel around 30% to prevent wheel spin..