Dan

iTrader: (75)

Does anyone know where I can find an aluminum steering center bridge for sale? Does Speed Passion intend to make any more?

InspGadgt

Ride height being off left to right could be a couple things...first I've noticed these tires aren't really round. When I was trying to set ride height with the TCS tires every time I'd spin the axle and check it again the ride height would be different. Also you could have had one of the front springs compress or collapse a little bit.

zephuros

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone had issues with the standard steel rear axles bending rather easily? I've been through 3 in the last month or so but 2 of those were indeed attributed to heavy crashes. Once they're slightly bent the car seems to be very unpredictable. Who has tried the carbon rear axle and what's the verdict? Worth getting or not?

I went to a machine shop nearby and had a few axles made up of hardened steel. These should be ready on Tuesday and I really can't wait to try them out. We've got the first F1 endurance race coming up here in Malaysia in a few weeks and I'm hoping that the new axles will last the 3 hours without bending. We run 17.5 motors with ratios down to 2.4 so the cars are plenty fast. Even a slight knock tends to bend the standard shafts

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Never had a problem with the axle, most of my axle wobble comes from the Ride rear tyres and rims...

Anyway, as an update, took out the Action RC F1 mini-series last night, with 3 wins from 3 rounds. The series comprised of our State titles event at Fraser Coast (previously mentioned), the final round of the SEQ interclub last weekend at Bayside, and then last night at Logan. Three very different tracks, but in reality my base setup has been really good. Only real changes I've made are to ride-height, side springs, and roll damper.

I've attached my two latest setups, but there isn't much of a difference. Bayside I ran a softer side spring as it is a very bumpy track, and tight and twisty, so hard was causing all sorts of problems. Also hence the higher ride-height.

For Logan, very close to what I ran at the state titles, bar softer roll damper greese, and a slight readjustment of front end shimming to get decent ride height.

I should mention that for both events I had raised the steering rack a further 1mm (so 3mm shims under the posts) and also seems to have improved things. Much happier with how the car holds the line in the middle of turns now

Anyway, roll on a bigger and better series next year... wonder if I should paint up a silver shell....

Ed

bee200sx

iTrader: (20)

Not sure if I should be asking on this topic or the F104 one, but does anyone know if the speed passion diff rings (SP000628) work on the F104 rear end. The tamiya ones are a pain to find and expensive!

Cheers

Ph3nyx

nope , tamiya diff ring are hexa

you can find tamiya rings with the F103 ref , it's the same

bee200sx

iTrader: (20)

Thanks Ph3nyx.

My apologies thought the F104 and TRF101 diffs rings were the same. I actually have the TRF101, and I know that the diff ring is from the TRF417 similar to the speed passion one.

I will post in the TRF101 topic to confirm if the speedpassion one is the same. Thanks again.

InspGadgt

If I remember correctly...doesn't the SP-1 use a standard pan car diff ring?

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

just purchased the SP1 red version and wondering what parts I should stick up on. I'm running foams on asphalt.

Any build tips?

robk

iTrader: (22)

Sp1 rings look like trf101 rings

Ph3nyx

you should get some renforced links , axle, servo horn , and be carreful with the plastic screw that hold the camber link. My tip is to add some light glue on it to avoid to loose them (shoo goe or something you can easily stick off)

JayL

I'm pretty sure the SP-1 rings are the same as the 417,f104v.2 and trf101 rings. The older tamiya f1's had the hex rings but they changed with the v.2

robk

iTrader: (22)

After having some problems with keeping the drag link together on carpet board tracks, I finally decided to get rid of the rack. I think the fact that I had a servo arm instead of a servo saver meant that the link was taking all the impact, either popping loose or breaking. Anyway, I set mine up almost exactly like the above picture.

Interestingly enough, it seemed to produce more steering. I only had one run on it as I set it up at the end of the day, but the initial run was great. Worth a try just to see if you like it better.

JayL

Rob: what are some general setup things that help prevent overheating the front tires?

robk

iTrader: (22)

Don't go too stiff on the center spring. A real stiff center spring puts a lot of pressure on the fronts.

IF you have a to put a ton of throw into the steering, you may be pushing so much that you're burning the fronts up. Look at a softer spring, or your ackermann setup. Ackermann is a big deal on these cars. Generally, the more angle in the tie rod (as seen from above the car) the more steering and aggressiveness.

It's also dependent on how you drive. Some guys use the front tires as brakes, and that will burn the tires. I don't run a lot of drag brake, but that can be a way to get a little more steering without stressing the fronts.