matrix101

iTrader: (43)

Thanks I'll try that setup. I've been given some tamiya 104 tyres I'd like to experiment with and wasn't sure how to go about it.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I'm guessing this is Brendon? Yeah, car was pretty good, although couldn't get close to Rob, but I think that went for the rest of the field. I think I spent too much time trying to get the car perfect, rather than just drive it!

As for the ride height, as metalnut said, add shims under the arms. I currently have 4mm under (instead of the kit 2mm), to give 5mm ride height with Pit 571's, and the kit front springs. I've also added 3mm of shims under the steering posts to help remove some of the bump steer when using the higher arms.

HiH
Ed

matrix101

iTrader: (43)

Yeah that's it, sometimes we maybe spend too much time thinking the car isn't good enough instead of trying to turn good consistent laps. It's a shame Rob didn't make the last final cos I think he would likely have cleaned it up.
And yep, this is Brendan. On a side note, thanks for taking the time to have a chat on Saturday. It was good of you, and made for a much more enjoyable weekend!

matrix101

iTrader: (43)

BTW, can anyone tell me if an Australian retailer sells the Pit 571/572 tyres? Did a bit of a search but came up empty.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Normally pick them up from RCMart in HK, or TQ in the states. Both pretty similar shipping times, and cost.

JayL

I followed the speed passion track width setting guide pdf on their website and it gave me perfect front ride height for pit tires.


I am having a weird issue where when I am running and I turn the wheels they never return to the same center every time, any idea's other than servo, which I am going to replace just in case?

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

The servo could be moving around if it's not glued in properly, but also the steering rack has a lot of slop. I went to direct steering (links to servo saver, no rack) and that helped. But it could definitely be your servo failing to center if the gears are damaged and/or the servo is cheap.

InspGadgt

It could also be the pillow balls if they are set too tight.

Travis S

iTrader: (46)

Ed,
I am about 90% done with my build and wiring for my new SP-1 and was going to try your setup. I am running into an issue with fitting the motor/pinion however. Did you have to mod the holes on the motor/pod plate for the pinion to fit. I am using the stock spur gear and need to be around 2.8 fdr and this isn't fitting.

Do you have any spacers under the ball studs on the front arms in the back where it mounts to the servo holder?

From the setup sheet it looks like you are not using the front battery posts/upper deck holders. Is this for easier battery removal or does this have a handling effect making it less stiff?

robk

iTrader: (22)

Use like an 88t 64 or maybe a 72t 48p the stock spur is pretty big for 21.5

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I'm using an 86T Kimborough Spur, as these also mean you can run a large number of balls, so still keeping a smooth diff. You might have to ream out a little material from the centre hole though, as they can be a tight fit on the axle.

At the moment, no. The front upper arm shims are something I've been playing around with a fair bit, and have tended to prefer having a slightly higher front compared to rear. Normally end up 1mm front, 0mm rear (so as kit). This is even with the lower arms raised for correct ride height. Putting shims under the rear ball makes the steering too aggressive, IMO.

This is just a flex thing, based on advice from Robk. I do keep meaning to play with this setting some more.. But so far find too many other things to tweak! :P

HiH
Ed

barts71m

iTrader: (34)

Ed, saw pics on your site about moving the front rack higher in the car. Did you get to try it out? Any updates? About to purchase one for my F1 collection.

robk

iTrader: (22)

As the you add or remove posts, or use a more forward or backward position, you change the way the car will act. All the posts locked down will actually kill a lot of rotation/steering mid corner and calm the car. Less posts usually result in a car that will rotate more but may feel less reactive off center, also may feel like it wanders a bit. This is accentuated if you were to use only the back posts. Using only the front posts would feel more like the car with all posts locked down.

This usually becomes more sensitive on carpet, but it is pretty much the same on any surface. Also a car that is not stiff enough front to back can get a "long" feeling like you a driving a limo. The car may be "taco"-ing on corner entry. This is a cue to stiffen the top deck or use a stiffer chassis. The opposite occurs when you use a really stiff chassis or a full length top deck - instant steering off center. This is not torsional stiffness. You could twist the car like a pretzel side to side, but if it is stiff front to back it will be reactive.

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

Other than what's noted I would most likely look into the servo. Even with a slight bind in a F1 car servos are generally strong enough to return/push past and return to center.

That is unless something major is binding. In that case, just disconnect your servo arm and swing the wheels back and forth to determine if that's the case.

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

Crew chief - "How's the car?"

Me - "I think it's 'taco-ing' under weight transfer and it's driving 'long' in the corners".

:-)