There's a bit more to brushed motor failures than just gear ratio.
couple things to scratch off the list:.....

1. Is there any binding in the gear train? with motor removed from chassis, move the spur with your thumb and it should feel free and smooth
2. Have you replaced all bushings with bearings? the improvement in gear train efficiency cannot be understated....this should be the first "hopup" on EVERYBODIES list.
3. When running with your specified gear ratio, try using the "old spit trick". When the motor is hot to touch, leave some saliva on your finger and wipe it on the motor. If it dissipates slowly, its fine, if it sizzles away, the gear ratio is too tall (pinion is too big and/or spur is too small).
4. If you don't like the speed of the sport tuned motor, its better to upgrade to a lower turn motor for more RPM and then gear accordingly.

ok. I'm assuming they use either the TBLE-02 ESC or the Hobbywing 1060 ESC since they are running brushed motors in the Novice class? I still need to find lipos to run in the TCS novice class. Any suggestions??

new tt-02 is on the way....i have the hispeed gear setup coming as well.

with that said, i have a spare hackmoto 10.5t motor....can i run this on the stock ESC? if i can, what gearing should I go with.... will be run on a 2s lipo.

should i toss in a 1080 instead.....or would it be best just to buy a juststock 13.5t combo?


bashing at home and teaching my son how to drive RC's...no racing

Time to build!!!!
 

Look what showed up today. Just a few spare and hop up parts. I also ordered another TT02 and radio so my kids and grandkids can have some fun with me too. The great thing about these Tamiya kits is the cost of them. I can get 4 kits plus radios for the cost of my Tekno eb48 2.0 I just sold. Lol. Thinking about ordering a third TT02.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ae9334f439.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...c3a0dfe28e.jpg

yes 2S Lipo.

hi thanks for responding. Bearings are super smooth, drivetrain was also very smooth. And after I lost the motor I could hold my finger on there a couple of seconds. Spit wouldn’t have sizzled.

I suspect two things. My gearing is too tall . Or all that dust/dirt from this seasons pollen got in the motor ans ruined it. Or bad luck on motor

I really hope it’s not the gearing.

was hoping to see if anyone ran that gearing and could reassume me it’s not too much for the motor to handle.

Hello everyone! I'm getting back into R/C after a 20 year hiatus, and I am in the process of building my new TT-02R. I'm going to be running an XR10 Pro G2, along with a 13.5T G3R motor since a small non-carpeted oval near me has a 13.5 Blinky class that I would like to try out as soon as I get some a few weeks/months of practice time in. They also have a 13.5 "open" class that looks like fun, but I'll cross that bridge when I get back into the racing groove with blinky.

My question is to you guys/gals running a similar setup with success- what kind of pinion/spur combo should I start with, or maybe rather what would be a good FDR to shoot for? The R comes with the high-speed gear set, so I can run pretty much whatever I want to as far as brand/pitch goes, but there's a lot of conflicting info out there as far as what won't end up cooking my motor prematurely. Thanks in advance!

For 13.5 you should to be around 4.5 fdr .. I believe.. maybe start above that and keep an eye on Temps

so....i thought i had a spare low turn motor....but all i have is a 27t 540 and 1060 esc. I don't wanna bother with that setup, so i'm just going brushless.

im ordering a 10BL120 and a Surpass Rocket 9.5t motor. I'll be running on a 5200mah 120c 2s.

so, the question is....what gearing should be I be running? i have the tamiya aluminum motor mount and the high speed gear set......should I change over to 48p or 64p?

i want to order stuff today, as i just got my supra kit yesterday and the rest of the parts should show up today (shocks, center shaft, servo, shims, etc...)

I'm pretty sure the TBLE-02 comes with the TT02 kits, so it's probably the most common in that class. People have commented that the battery cutoff voltage is too low for lipos because it's calibrated for LiFE batteries. But you can probably run this car on a 5000-6000mah battery for over 30 mins, so it's not an issue when racing.

Excellent, thank you. I believe I saw when researching it should theoretically be right around there. I do plan on starting a bit above that and seeing how it goes from there, will certainly keep an eye on the temps of course.

Question???
 

I plan on running the Hobbywing 1060 esc. I know they are prone to limp mode. My question is will putting a glitch buster at the reciever do the same effect as if I solder a cap onto the battery wires on the ESC?? I'm trying to prevent the limp mode. I'll be running a normal digital servo (non HV) on 5v (ESC) and a torque tuned motor. Thanks

The 1060's manual specifies the BEC at 6V/3A, not 5V.
If you plug a glitch buster to the receiver, it will effect the output of the BEC (being more resistant to peak loads). Adding a cap to the battery wires has an influence on the input side of BEC/ESC.
​​​​I assume that limp mode issues are not directly associated with the BEC overloaded, its more a problem of an unstable input voltage because of motor peak loads. A cap parallel to the battery can improve and avoid this (cap can instantly deliver the needed high amps)
So, adding a glitch buster is not really the same as adding a battery cap.
​​​​​

thanks for the info. I emailed Hobbywing directly and they said there was a misprint on the info for the 1060 brushed ESC. It is rated for 5V/2A. Atleast that's what I was told directly from Hobbywing. So I guess I'll put a cap in parallel on the ESC power wires.

I've run a ton of 1060's with motors down to 13T with Savox servos and Lipos and have never had an issue with one going into limp mode.

that's great to hear. Makes me feel better about my choice of ESC. Did you solder a cap to the battery leads??

I recently bought two. One is in a Tamiya M05 with a torque tuned motor. In all 3 qualifiers and the 3 finals at my last meeting it went into limp mode whilst doing the warm up laps. In the actual runs it only did it once on the first lap of the last final. It never did it off the line ie stationary to full throttle, really weird. Never once had an issue with my ancient tamiya esc. Every time if I just sat for a few seconds it then seemed to go back to normal

The other one I put in a TT01 with a team powers brushed which is quicker than a torque tuned and I presume more power hungry, only gave that a couple of runs but no issues.

Going to put the M05 one into nimh mode and wire a cap in if it does it again, if that doesn't work then it goes in the bin. I wish I had researched them first as there are so many reports of it. I just bought them as I wanted a cheap waterproof esc with lipo protection

it seems it is a shot in the dark on wether you get a good one or bad one. I may just go with the new Tamiya Tble-04s. It's low voltage cutoff is set at 6.2V. I know it's alittle low for lipos but races are only 7-10 minutes long. I don't understand why Hobbywing doesn't correct this known issue. Raise the price and make the Hobbywing 6V/3A and fix the limp mode issue then they would have a winner on their hands for a brushed ESC. Can you use the Hobbywing 1080 for racers?? It states it's for crawlers.

There is no incentive to make "race worthy" brushed esc's , when the international bodies that sanction RC competition have long ago moved on to brushless.
HobbyWing makes perfectly affordable and capable brushless esc's that are better suited to competition. Don't paint yourself into a corner with the limitations associated with older technology.

I'm not trying to paint myself into a corner. I want to race in the TCS in the Spec/Novice class and that class has to run the torque tuned motor or silver can stock motor. So I'm limited on what ESC I can use. If you can help me out with some suggestions that would be great.

The stock Tamiya ESC is a good choice.
If your budget allows, I seriously recommend considering Tekin FX esc's... Even though they are marketed as crawling esc's, they were fully developed long before crawling was part of the market. They are a full option brushed esc that is very suitable to race spec. They are also super tiny and compact, making them really awesome for fitting into tight spaces and keeping your center of gravity low. Back when I raced Tamiya mini, they were the ESC to have.
https://www.teamtekin.com/fxr.html

Additionally, Tekin RS esc's can be wired for brushed motors and set to brushed mode. Something I can't do with my HobbyWing Xerun esc's unfortunately
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-r...tt1157/p972038

I've been researching brushed ESCs and can't justify spending $100 on an ESC for a $115 car. The Hobbywing 1080 is the one I've decided to go with. It's only $41 per unit which isn't bad plus has all the features needed in an ESC. Thanks for the help and advice

Bumpers???
 

Do TT01 bumpers fit our TT02. I ordered a bumper from the TamiyaUSA website from the TT02R spare parts list and the pic is not what I was sent. I can't seem to find the correct part number for the bumper that comes with the R version of our cars.

Delete

Good luck, but the tekin RS series are worth the extra cash without being stuck on either brushed or brushless modes....

Tekin RS is 10+ year old design, that’s why it still has brushed / brushless mode. The current RSX / RSX Pro is brushless only.

with respect to HobbyWing, ten years ago you could argue that Tekin was a better esc, not today. The HW XR10 Pro / StockSpec are outstanding ESCs.

Tekin is still a good product so don’t get me wrong there, but their appeal is not what it used to be. I seldom see anyone at track running their ESC. Majority run R1 or HW

Even though, no one asked...….The one other thing I like about the old Tekin ESC's is that you can rewire right to the solder posts. The HobbyWing brushed esc's terminate the wires inside the plastic housing. So you're stuck with the rainbow leads unless you crack the case open. Don't accidently cut the motor and battery wires too short. Spliced leads look hack :rolleyes:

My experience with stock spec racing classes is that you would want to find every incremental advantage you can to reduce weight and lower center of gravity...one of the ways we did this was by reducing the connections between battery and motor as short as possible.
Does the TCS Spec/Novice Class dictate that the stock connectors for the motor be used? Or are you free to wire directly to the ESC?

I am curious to know how the 1080 brakes perform in the TT-02. Personally I'd never use it for racing, but it could function just fine for me in my Tamiya parking lot play things.

It appears that the foam bumper that came with the TT-02R kit is Tamiya Part# 52128. It is listed as part number SP-1218 in the parts list at the back of the manual. If you look at the description of this foam bumper, it shows that it should fit TT-01 kits. I would assume that it should also fit TT-02 kits since it was included with the TT-02R kit. Here is a link that shows which kits this bumper was included with...

https://tamiyabase.com/index.php?opt...507&Itemid=775

While I have not owned every variant of the TT-01 or TT-02 it appears that all the foam bumpers should be interchangeable between the different versions of the cars. In fact I just pulled off a foam bumper from a base TT-02 kit and tried it on a TT-01E kit and it fit just fine onto the plastic bumper.

Tamiya makes several different size foam bumpers for the TT kits depending on which body kit was included. On kits that didn't include a body, Tamiya typically included a smaller foam bumper. If you are having difficulty finding the exact foam bumper that came with your TT-02R kit, you might have to modify a larger Tamiya TT foam bumper to work with your body. Foam bumpers are fairly easy to cut using basic hand tools.

Here are examples of a Tamiya TT foam bumpers that are being sold through A-Main hobbies...

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-...m51007/p124260
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-...m54819/p777463

Here is a Tamiya TT foam bumper similar to the TT-02R bumper being fulfilled/sold through Amazon...


----------

If you were sent the wrong PLASTIC bumper, I am afraid that those aren't interchangeable between the TT-01 and TT-02 kits.

The PLASTIC bumper for the TT-02R kit is Tamiya Part# 51528 (SP-1528). The PLASTIC bumper would have been a part of PARTS BAG B in the kit and there would have been 2 included. you should be able to purchase the plastic bumper for the TT-02R kit from various sources such as TamiyaUSA, Tower Hobbies, Horizon Hobby, Amazon, various online sellers, or possibly through your local hobby shop. Many local hobby stores are happy to special order parts for their customers as they are already receiving weekly shipments from major R/C suppliers.

Here is a link to the part on TamiyaUSA's website...

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/radio...drive-road-tt/

I hope this information helps.

*stares at the sparkling new XR10 Pro/G3R in my TT-02R* ...Well, I've screwed up this time, haven't I?

Just joshing around, lol. I totally get where you're coming from... it was a hard pill to swallow spending more than twice what my new T-02 kit cost just for the motor/ESC. The way I saw it though, if I'm already spending X amount for a nice middle-of-the-road option, why not spend just a bit more for what I really want and can grow into? For instance, if I decide I'd like a more track-focused chassis in the future, I can pop my electronics right into that one and be good to go without having to buy any of them twice. At least that's what I've been telling myself, anyhow!

Hi
Anyone want to sell their TT02RR roller please PM ?
Thanks

Mini dampers or super mini dampers???
 

What are a better fit for a TT02. I'm replacing the friction dampers on my 2nd regular TT02. My TT02R came with super mini dampers....but when I look up for Tamiya oil dampers they list both the mini and super mini dampers. Which is it?? My gut tells me the super mini dampers are the ones I should get. Thanks

GT Pro Spec I presume?🤔

indeed

I borrowed my friends for TCS in Las Vegas. I finished 4rd, battling for 3rd entire race. I couldn't tune out the front from hopping in turns.. ran 1 million in front diff.. i think I needed 1 trillion 😭

fresh tt-02 build.....10BL120, 9.5t Surpass V3, 5200mah 2s (120c), savox SC-0254mg servo, yeah racing 50mm shocks, hi-speed gears with 26t pinion, all fast eddy bearings,

im having handling issues.

On throttle, the car will not turn right well...until i let off the throttle then it will turn well.
Turning left, it just spins out.
With the gyro on...it just wiggles the rear end under throttle

are there any suggestions as to what to try or parts to buy?


this is just a play toy for me and the kids....just running the cul-de-sac 500 each afternoon haha

First thing I would try would be softer springs on rear shocks and/or firmer springs on the front shocks. That should help with the looping out. Definitely sounds like you've got a good case of torque steer. Possible the 9.5 is too much motor.

I can't remember which springs i put where....but i'll be using the yeah racing springs.

• Piston 2 Holes (4 pcs)
• Piston 3 Holes (4 pcs)
• Piston 4 Holes (4 pcs)
• V Piston 2 Holes (4 pcs)
• V Piston 3 Holes (4 pcs)
• V Piston 4 Holes (4 pcs)
• Spring Red (Super Soft) (4 pcs)
• Spring Yellow (Soft) (4 pcs)
• Spring Blue (Medium) (4 pcs)
• Spring White (Hard) (4 pcs)
• Spring Black (Super Hard) (4 pcs)

looking for TT02RR
Please PM
Thanks
got one thanks

Anyone received the Ford GT MK2 yet? Due out in May/June it says.

is it better to have tt-02 or xv-01 for rally races?