Looks like you might need to buy the entire diff assembly. Have you tried automotive gasket sealer?

You probably have to order the entire diff. You want to email Tamiya America, They are usually quick in answering.

I haven’t tried automotive sealer, but I’ll give it a try. I don’t want to buy an entire unit. I thought tamiya would use this gasket on other diffs. I’ll send them an email and let you guys know what they say.

Tamiya is notorious for packaging parts together in bundles. Buying individual parts is often impossible. Try buying body posts alone and you'll see what I mean.

its 51145 TG10 gaskets

LOL, they just want to encourage you to build another roller and again and again and again

Hi. I´m looking for new differentials and I want some advice to choose one. I found 3 different options, the Yeah racing TATT-020, Tamiya 54875 and 3Racing TT02-09. I would like to know what do you think about this 3 options.
Thanks in advance.

I have no personal experience with neither of these diffs, but there is a nice review of the 3racing one from theRcracer (this guy is also member here)

https://www.thercracer.com/2018/04/3...ntial.html?m=0

​​​​​​

Thanks for the info. They also review the Tamiya one.

I’ve used both diffs. The 3Racing one is lighter, the Tamiya one is much more reliable, it’s still smooth. The 3Racing one did get notchy after a couple of months.. it’s ok but didn’t feel smooth like the Tamiya one.

Thanks for the feedback, I already ordered one from Tamiya.

Out of all those model variants which is the best for outdoor asphalt racing??

New tt-02 version coming out soon??
 

Hello. Is there gonna be a new version of the tt-02 coming out soon?? Reason I ask is because the tt-02sr version has already been discontinued just like most of the variants. It seems the stock and r version are the only ones left that you can buy new. Thanks

I have the 3Racing diff for the TT02. Not sure how beneficial this information is as I have just the one. After I assembled the diff, I left it sitting unused for a time. I noticed that even without use it was leaking oil. I took it back apart, cleaned all of the oil and grease off, and noticed that the gasket surface on the diff housing wasn't exactly smooth. I decided to lightly sand it with fine sandpaper. Just enough to smooth off any of the plastic flashing/burs. After doing so, the diff hasn't leaked yet! Your mileage may vary, but if you find yourself with a leaky diff, I suppose this could be a potential fix.

Cheers

A new top version of the TT-02 would be neat. I have an SR that I'm about to hack up for an experiment... If ever I find an on road track to frequent I'll probably need something that meets class specs again.

Both the TT02 RR and SR are discontinued... Im sure there will be something soon...

... maybe TT-03?

TT02 LO (leftover)
 

currently working on my tt02 made out of leftover parts of my TT02 type S...
now I try to build active rear but not sure if I buy RR (#54874) parts for camber control or use turnbuckle shaft and left over part.
anyone done this before? (I m sure! but cant find pics and info)

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...40d45bc0b6.jpg

Has anyone run longer axles in the rear to set the rear higher in order to try a proper rear diffuser set up?

Steering upgrade parts???
 

Hello...does anyone know we're I can get those sleeve hat bushing things to do the steering upgrade that sends a m3 bolt all the way through the chassis to tighten up the steering rack. Thanks

Here is a website for Tamiya stuff that has a TT-02 rear camber mod that you might be able to do some of your existing parts.

https://www.thercracer.com/2014/07/t...ar-camber.html

and for the TT-02 front

https://www.thercracer.com/2014/11/t...er-caster.html

thanks but cutting parts and non-Tamiya parts aren`t allowed.
looking more for Tamiya Cup Racer ;)

Would these help you?

TAMIYA 54651

I just ordered one that I'm going to try with a custom suspension set-up. I may add a second link for extra stability.

thanks, got 2 pairs but dont fit for tt02 arms, I use it on my tt02s... I finished built without camber adjust today and I think that best choice is the front arms form set #54874 rear and front.
thanks for the help!

Aftermarket companies???
 

Hello, of all the aftermarket companies out there that make stuff for the TT02 platform which is the best one to go with?? I'm looking for the best fitment, durability, blue color, etc?? I know there is yeah racing, gpm and a couple others. I'm looking for the closest to tamiya quality without the tamiya price. Lol. Thanks

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...28ebfec9f2.jpg
the stock dampers with 2 holes and 400 cst oil looks hard to me (normal I drive the TRF), I think I go much more softer and lower, first I change springs...
Currently I like the look of the car but I`m not sure if I keep it or sell it.

Tamiya 54875 gear diff
 

Just curious about this diff. I noticed that it only comes with 1 cross shaft and 2 spider gears. But the cross shaft has a flat spot in the middle, and the diff case has a slot for possibly another cross shaft.

Is it possible, or is there any advantage, to adding another cross shaft and 2 more spider gears? That gives it essentially double the gear surface area just like the stock TT02 differential but sealed.

Just wondering cause I’m pretty happy with my front one-way and rear stock diff stuffed with anti wear grease.

why you want do this? at buggy we use often just 2 spur gears and one rod. at touring car it would be heavier and more rotatory mass, but biggest issue could be that diff oil volume is to small and it heaten up to fast. I use the RR diff like recommended and its fine.

if you try something diffrent share it pls!

best and good luck

Pinion size???
 

What pinion size would I use for a 21.5 brushless motor?? Thanks

you need to ideally achieve a FDR in the order of 3.5-4.0 - really depends on your spur.

Couple questions....
 

Hello, has anyone used wheel hexes TAM53056. If so how thick are they in MM? I want to get some for my new TT02 chassis. I'm hoping they are 6MM thick. Second question: has anyone used a Hobbywing quicrun 1060 for their brushed motor? If so do you experience the much talked about limp mode? I want to run a lipo battery but don't want to worry about over discharging the lipo with the stock tamiya ESC. Thanks

Since I focus on odd speed runs and fun builds, I've been getting excited with this warm weather finally getting here. That being said, here are some pics of my Big Brushed Motor TT-02. I finally had time to trim and mount the new 795 motor in place of the 775 motor I was running. I will have a bit more torque now as well 1000kv instead of about 830kv. There are also spools in the diffs both front and rear, now. I've managed a 52mph with 6s so far. It has been an interesting build. If it can get past 60mph I'll call it a success and probably bring it out to bash every once in a while. It sounds so smooth with the big motor directly connected to the diffs.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...1255bac9c3.jpg
775 vs 795 Before trimming the you could see that not only was the 795 motor a tad longer, but so was the shaft. It wouldn't fit the couplings I've been using this way.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...3b493c5028.jpg
After some semi-careful trimming, the bigger motor fits!
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...da0488f6f4.jpg
This is what it looks like ready to drive. This set-up got me to 52mph on 6s. I tried these larger tires with the first motor in an attempt to get more speed out of it. There wasn't quite enough torque to maximize my speed like this. That was part of the reason for the larger motor. I'll be trying different tires to find the balance I need as I get it back on the road.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...eb9aa91c32.jpg
Testing the first set-up. It was easy to see that even with puttied diffs each wheel was gonna spin at different speeds. These tires were all taped and glued. I imagine they'll need retaping again before being used for any high speeds. I be trying foams on the next runs.


Wish me luck!

Metal diff gears???
 

Does anyone have a part number or part numbers for metal diff gears front and rear for our cars?? Thanks

why do you want them? Would have thought very much overkill.

51144 FWIW though.

Metal drive components
 

I'm looking for the same metal components drive line that the TT02R uses. I found 3 out of the 4 I need. I found 50823, 50883 and 50597. I'm lacking the metal cup joint that goes into the diff cases. The part # in the manual is 19804237. Nothing comes up with that number. Any help??? Pics of what I've found.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...87679aa24b.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...7b852fe7cf.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...7f05c0db2a.jpg

You can try Tamiya 54477. They are the metal drive cups that fit into the gear differential. But it is listed for universal drive shafts. It should still engage the dogbones properly.

You can use TT01 differentials in the TT02. They have metal internal gears but with 3 spider gears instead of 4.

Edit: if you decide to go with TT01 diffs, use 53790 drive cups instead of the TT02 ones. The TT01 drive cups have a metal shaft that connects the left and right side outdrives.

​​​​​​Thanks.... I was thinking the same thing. I mean how different can that end of the dog bone and universal actually be?? If they don't work out what is the harm in using the stock plastic drive cups??

New Tamiya ESC coming soon.
 

Did everyone here about the new ESC tamiya will be including in the tt02 kits??? It's the tble-04s and it's a slight upgrade to the tble-02 in certain areas. It has a low and hi battery cut off voltage. The low is 5.6v and the high is 6.2v. I wonder if the high cut off is enough not to ruin a 2s lipo. That means it's 3.1v per cell. Is that still too low for a lipo??
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...c189839da.jpeg

In my opinion 6,2V is too low as cut off voltage for 2S Lipo.
As always, ESC is monitoring the pack voltage and not the cell voltages. It may happen that the pack discharges unbalanced and one cell is already way below 3.0V (not good!) and the other one still above before cut off kicks in. I would like to see a cut off voltage of min. 6.5 or better 6.6V to safely (kind of) use Lipo batteries.