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Old 01-14-2021, 03:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tamiya TT02 Thread
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TT02 Wiki - Post your setups, upgrades and home grown ideas here for us to read...

TT02 vs the TT-01
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/01/ta...irst-pics.html
New flat chassis layout - Easier to run LiPOs vs the cutouts in the TT-01s
Revised suspension geometry
Support for std spur gears

MODELS ----------------------------------------------------

Changes that follow are in comparison to the basic kit.
TT02 - Base Kit. Friction Dampers.
TT02D - Drift: Drift Tires, Hardened A-Parts, Oil Shocks
TT02R - Race: Rear Alu 3* Toe In Hubs, Alu Propshaft + Cups, CVA oil Dampers
TT02RR - Race+: TT02R + Adjustable Upper Arms, Oil Filled Diffs, Hardened Blue Chassis
TT02S - Type S: TRF416 arms, FRP shock towers, bearings,
TT02SR - TypeS Race: TT02S + Double cardan front drive shafts, rear lightweight universals, Rear sealed oil differential, front spool
TT02B - Buggy. Offroad: CVA Shocks, Double Wishbone long suspension

HOP UPS ----------------------------------------------------

Bearings:
#54476 Ball Bearing Set TT02: 8x 1050, 4x 1280, 4x 1150

Propshaft:
#54501 Alum Propeller Shaft TT02
#54502 Alum Propeller Joint TT02
Tip:
Put a 3mm piece of well greased silicone hose between the dog bone and the shaft of each wheel to reduce slop.

Motor Mount and Gearing:
#54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
#54500 High Speed Gear Set
#54875 Oil Gear Differential

Steering:
#54550 Low Friction Step Screws
- Full Upgrade Kit -
#54752 Steering Upgrade Kit, Includes all below.
- Individual Parts -
#54574 Aluminum Steering Set
#54575 Aluminum Steering Bridge
#54799 Hi-Torque Servo Saver or #51000 Servo Saver Black
#54248 Aluminum Turnbuckles 3x23
#50797 5mm Short Adjustable Turnbuckle End


Dog Bones to Universal Joints:
- Standard Steel -
#53792 Universal Shaft Assembly (steel), NOTE: Must also use item 54477 on the TT-02
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (steel) (2pieces)
- Lightweight -
#53506 Blue Aluminum 39mm Swing Shaft
#53499 Wheel axle for assembly universal
#53681 Titanium wheel axle for assemblu universal (but this is very expensive)
#53500 cross joints for universal
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (2pieces)
Tip: Run steel in the front, Alu is okay for the rear but the front takes a lot of wear and impact from crashes

Shock Options:
#54753 Super-mini CVA Oil Shocks, comes with med black springs
#42102 TRF 55mm Shocks

Chassis:
#54639 Carbon Damper Stay Front
#54640 Carbon Damper Stay Rear
#47339 Hard Lower Deck Blue
#47340 Hard Lower Deck White
#54926 Hard Lower Deck Black
#54733 Aluminum Rear Uprights, Gives 3* rear toe in for extra stability
#54549 Aluminum Rear Uprights, 2.5* Rear Toe In
#58584 Hardened A-Parts, Uprights, Hub Carriers, Diff Covers, etc

SUGGESTED BASE SETUPS ----------------------------------

Bashing:
Build to the kit instructions and have fun!

Asphalt Parking Lot Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 3K oil in the rear diff for low / medium grip, 5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip

Carpet Indoor Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 7k -10k in the rear diff for very high grip carpet.


ADDITIONAL RESOURCES -------------------------------------

TT02 Build and Review here
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html

TT02 Tuning and Mods Guide
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
https://www.rcdriver.com/take-the-versatile-tamiya-tt-02-chassis-to-the-next-level/


Gearing for 17.5t Blinky
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html











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Old 06-24-2016, 05:48 PM
  #1006  
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Going downmarket when you're used to fancier cars will usually be disappointing, but 5 minutes of Googling would've uncovered that the TT series is Tamiya's entry-level road car series. As for the spec race being a demolition derby, it sounds like the spec rules suck. If there are a few simple mods that will significantly improve the cars, they should be allowed, if not required. Talk to the organizers about it.
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Old 06-24-2016, 07:45 PM
  #1007  
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At 45 years old, and having been kit building since I was in my early teens, I knew exactly what I was getting into when I bought a TT02. I was coming back to a hobby after 30 year hiatus. Battery, ESC and Radio tech had changed dramatically (and for the better price wise). But I knew I wanted an on road car that was very basic to re-learn the hobby on, could be upgraded easily, and would act as a reliable platform for parking lot racing/bashing.

RTR sucks. It ruins fully 1/2 if not more of the reason this hobby was so valuable to me as a kid. RTR takes the learning and satisfaction out for my kids. There is nothing better to learn (or re-learn) building on than a good old reliable, awesome instructions, supported for years, Tamiya kit.

In short, for what I needed, the TT02 was a PERFECT choice. Easy build, easy upgrade, learn some basic setup and troubleshooting/improving 4wd touring cards, hit every curb in town with minimal breakage. How can anyone not love this kit as an entry level chassis?

I've now taken my little TT02 well beyond it's beginning. I've hopped it up, sorted out a number of problems, and dialed it in to be perfect for my purpose. Anyone that buys this kit expecting more than the above is asking too much, from too little.

My only gripe is that on road "parking lot racers" are so few and far between now. I'm glad Tamiya is still making shaft drive kits with covered gear boxes and enough ground clearance to be street "raceable". Not all of us have a LHS or track in reasonable driving distance. Good on Tamiya for filling this gap.
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Old 06-25-2016, 12:17 AM
  #1008  
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Traxxas was created for people who don't want to build a kit & want it working out of the box. The only RC vehicle I've ever owned from new & not built is a truck that I've never used & don't really want to. Has nothing to do with it being prebuilt, I just like offroad buggies more.
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Old 06-25-2016, 12:49 AM
  #1009  
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Originally Posted by steve_pss
At 45 years old, and having been kit building since I was in my early teens, I knew exactly what I was getting into when I bought a TT02. I was coming back to a hobby after 30 year hiatus. Battery, ESC and Radio tech had changed dramatically (and for the better price wise). But I knew I wanted an on road car that was very basic to re-learn the hobby on, could be upgraded easily, and would act as a reliable platform for parking lot racing/bashing.

RTR sucks. It ruins fully 1/2 if not more of the reason this hobby was so valuable to me as a kid. RTR takes the learning and satisfaction out for my kids. There is nothing better to learn (or re-learn) building on than a good old reliable, awesome instructions, supported for years, Tamiya kit.

In short, for what I needed, the TT02 was a PERFECT choice. Easy build, easy upgrade, learn some basic setup and troubleshooting/improving 4wd touring cards, hit every curb in town with minimal breakage. How can anyone not love this kit as an entry level chassis?

I've now taken my little TT02 well beyond it's beginning. I've hopped it up, sorted out a number of problems, and dialed it in to be perfect for my purpose. Anyone that buys this kit expecting more than the above is asking too much, from too little.

My only gripe is that on road "parking lot racers" are so few and far between now. I'm glad Tamiya is still making shaft drive kits with covered gear boxes and enough ground clearance to be street "raceable". Not all of us have a LHS or track in reasonable driving distance. Good on Tamiya for filling this gap.
Sounds like you need to be running 1/8 scale if the ground clearance is that bad or find somewhere much better to run. Are in the process of converting another 8ight electric buggy for Tarmac & drifting only. The 1/10 scale vehicles are simply too small to run over an environment designed for full sized motor vehicles & will eventually bottom out. Do this too quickly & it's a matter of time before you'll damage something. Personally I don't have the need to run with others running theirs & that's just an unexpected bonus should it happen. Picked up a tt02d set with the r35 shell & it takes more ability to drive it well compared to my high end drift car. I wanted something to use around the house that I wouldn't mind if it got broken. Chucked in a cheap/nasty Trackstar combo & it does well for what it is plus it takes the knocks really well.
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:40 PM
  #1010  
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What would you suggest for an 1/8th scale on road with sufficient clearance, needs to be a kit, covered drivetrain to prevent debris issues?
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Old 06-25-2016, 08:31 PM
  #1011  
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Originally Posted by steve_pss
What would you suggest for an 1/8th scale on road with sufficient clearance, needs to be a kit, covered drivetrain to prevent debris issues?
Provided you can get the right parts to convert it any 1/8 scale off-roader should be good. I just grabbed a 8ight 2.0 E because it was cheap, I've already got one & have heaps of spare parts already. Have changed the shocks & set it up similar to my 1/10 drift car. If it's shaft driven it'll help reduce risk - not that I've ever experienced that type of problem. I don't think you can get a belt driven chassis that is fully enclosed in any scale from this years models. My 1/10 scale vehicles are fully enclosed belt driven chassis but they're also vintage models & parts are really difficult to source now.
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Old 06-25-2016, 10:17 PM
  #1012  
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Originally Posted by rcmadkiwi
if you're going to post in an RC online forum do so in the thread for the chassis you enjoy. You'll find most people enjoy their RC vehicle no matter what it is & although there is often something better available. Remember to keep it into perspective - having a Tamiya RC vehicle is much better than nothing & for many it's perfect for their use. I thought my Tamiya drift car was awesome, until I got something more expensive & of better quality. Which is a fact of life - if I had the latest & greatest supercar I wouldn't go around bagging what I thought was inferior. Pretty easy to do this sort of thing hiding behind a computer but you're just drawing attention to yourself & not in a good way. Besides if you turned off that computer/tablet/smart device, went outside & actually used the Tamiya you'd learn to appreciate it more. I appreciate it that if I damage anything parts are easy to get, inexpensive compared to high end kits, really easy to fix & there's a huge range of upgrades available.
Hiding behind a computer? In what way have you concluded I wouldn't say the same thing to you or anyone else's face? What I said about the car wasn't a threat or a personal insult. If you like it that's fine with me.
And I like having my "computer/tablet/smart device" on as normal thanks. I'm not some punk who doesn't know what I'm talking about because I read stuff and just repeated it like your trying to make it sound.
You can see my post count you might take note I post a lot.
99% of what I post isn't negative and is in threads of other things I own and do like, but that doesn't mean I can't express my dislikes of a thing or experience either. I already know whats out there, I've been into the RC hobby for 24 years, had planes, helicopters, cars, boats and everything in between, I am more than comfortable to comment at this point.
I admit I didn't research this TT02 as I should before I bought it, but thats because even the most basic cheap'o RC's out there generally include things left to the wind with this thing. To me that is ridiculous and absurd, no matter how many other good points they have accredited.

Originally Posted by fyrstormer
Going downmarket when you're used to fancier cars will usually be disappointing, but 5 minutes of Googling would've uncovered that the TT series is Tamiya's entry-level road car series. As for the spec race being a demolition derby, it sounds like the spec rules suck. If there are a few simple mods that will significantly improve the cars, they should be allowed, if not required. Talk to the organizers about it.
Your right, I should have done more research. I normally do, but dived right in because I wanted to join my club members in the winter racing they where doing. And you are also right about the spec rules. They don't only "Suck", but are flat out stupid for the surface they want to run on. But I already tried to reason with the head members about it but more or less wasted my time. Even after I let them drive my car "completely stock TT02" as the rules say I have to run, they even admitted them selves it was a handful they couldn't even drive. A couple of them wrecked it into the wall on the first two turns. Most of the fast guys are running the TT01, because that's still allowed... They also said they have seen this was a problem with one other members TT02 without explanation and laughed how the TT01 was the better car after driving both. Well thats great!... But thanks to not being allowed to upgrade the vehicles to do what I know needs to be done I'm pretty much screwed since that is out of the question.

Last edited by Josh L; 06-26-2016 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 06-26-2016, 10:46 AM
  #1013  
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Personal i think commenting needs to be constructive about anything and as long it isn't directed as a personal attack it should be fine to say what your thoughts are even if it's not that possitive about the quality or spec rules.
Spec rules need to be equally balanced for every chassis that is allowed or just allow one type of chassis.

To me the TT-02 is a vey fine chassis and from my personal experience a TT-02 can outperform a TT-01 chassis.
A TT-01 though has still some advantages over the TT-02 chassis, as it's able to use stabilizers and droop settings, but all these things can be fine tuned on the TT-02 chassis.
My little girl drove our TT-02R with very good results, even with a slower motor against a TA06R chassis.
She was able to get even laptimes, she TQ'd and even won the race.
Allthough i'm a TRF driver i still can appreciate driving my TT-02 and love it very much.
Therefore i ordered the all new Team Hahn racing MAN TGS kit and the body will be run on my TT-02 chassis while other clubmembers will run theirs on the TT-01 chassis.
This will be the perfect situation to compare.
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Old 06-26-2016, 11:19 AM
  #1014  
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+1 turning my tt02r into a mann tgs also
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Old 06-26-2016, 03:46 PM
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Yeah it might be fair to mention the club runs on semi smooth concrete, from which I haven't seen a tire yet that will hold hook without sauce. Then that also pretty much wears away by half to three quarters of the race, which at that point becomes a drift event. Nothing wrong with drifting either if the cars where setup and intended to do such.
The way they have it just isn't any fun due to everyone smashing into one another because they are breaking traction. I was slammed so hard by a side swipe on the first race I ran, it sent my car about 15 feet flipping into the side rail, which snapped a rear A arm and dumped a front dog bone on the track.
Unfortunately I seem to be the only one irritated with it enough to say anything about the rule, so that makes me look like the bad guy, but I can't imagine anyone who knows racing and what it should be having to much fun with it after a couple runs.
So I am selling the kit I own, minus the type S which I have heavily upgraded at this point just because.
But that one might have to go as well if the rule set doesn't change by fall.
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:36 AM
  #1016  
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...and on to another topic.

I can't wait to show you guys the body I've been working on for my TT02. Its taking me a lot of time but I think it will be worth it. stay tuned! I am building it to look good, but avoiding adding too much detail as I want this car to still be very usable. -I plan on running this one at the park/parking lots ...and maybe bring to the track for some practice runs occasionally.
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:17 AM
  #1017  
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Originally Posted by Josh L
Yeah it might be fair to mention the club runs on semi smooth concrete, from which I haven't seen a tire yet that will hold hook without sauce. Then that also pretty much wears away by half to three quarters of the race, which at that point becomes a drift event. Nothing wrong with drifting either if the cars where setup and intended to do such.
The way they have it just isn't any fun due to everyone smashing into one another because they are breaking traction. I was slammed so hard by a side swipe on the first race I ran, it sent my car about 15 feet flipping into the side rail, which snapped a rear A arm and dumped a front dog bone on the track.
Unfortunately I seem to be the only one irritated with it enough to say anything about the rule, so that makes me look like the bad guy, but I can't imagine anyone who knows racing and what it should be having to much fun with it after a couple runs.
So I am selling the kit I own, minus the type S which I have heavily upgraded at this point just because.
But that one might have to go as well if the rule set doesn't change by fall.
Many years ago i run at the club that used the facility of a roller skating club, the surface was a very slippery polished concrete where we drove our TA01 cars and Top Forces on(yes it is that long ago) but one of the fellow clubmembers had a machine that he used to prepare his tires.
The machine made the tires rough, it did take away the smooth grippy feeling and his car had great grip, it needed to be done regularly but it sure helped a lot.
Back then we did use the standard tamiya radial 26mm (50419) that was included in a TA01 kit.
Perhaps this helps you to get some extra traction, i personally never tried it.
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Old 06-27-2016, 05:20 PM
  #1018  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
...and on to another topic.

I can't wait to show you guys the body I've been working on for my TT02. Its taking me a lot of time but I think it will be worth it. stay tuned! I am building it to look good, but avoiding adding too much detail as I want this car to still be very usable. -I plan on running this one at the park/parking lots ...and maybe bring to the track for some practice runs occasionally.
Can't wait to see it. These last two pages have been a boring and uninformative crapfest to read through.
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:16 AM
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Can't wait to see it. These last two pages have been a boring and uninformative crapfest to read through.
LOL

yeah, i'll have the body ready soon.

Hey, I do have a question.
I built my TT02 ..I notice that the front bumper plastic piece (the piece that sticks out the front of the car and holds the soft sponge bumper) is the same piece that is used for the rear of the car (that holds the rear suspension arms in place). I get that Tamiya used the same part as its probably cheaper to create 1 mold vs 2. But I don't like how the rear has a bunch of unnecessary plastic. Is there a replacement part, OR has anyone cut that extra plastic off? I don't think removing it would effect the car's balance. thoughts?
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Old 06-28-2016, 12:06 PM
  #1020  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
LOL

yeah, i'll have the body ready soon.

Hey, I do have a question.
I built my TT02 ..I notice that the front bumper plastic piece (the piece that sticks out the front of the car and holds the soft sponge bumper) is the same piece that is used for the rear of the car (that holds the rear suspension arms in place). I get that Tamiya used the same part as its probably cheaper to create 1 mold vs 2. But I don't like how the rear has a bunch of unnecessary plastic. Is there a replacement part, OR has anyone cut that extra plastic off? I don't think removing it would effect the car's balance. thoughts?
Just do not fit it. I never fit it in my TT02's although on the TT02-S you will need to fit it and cut it down.

Check the weight saving section on this guide for pics http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
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